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My little volume on the Crimean War having 
been favourably received by the press and 
by the public, I have ventured to write a few 
experiences and adventures of my earlier life. 
They are such as fall to the lot of ordinary 
mortals, but, as many of them refer to days 
when ladies went to parties in sedan chairs, 
when gentlemen fought their battles in the 
morning with swords and pistols, and when 
railways were unknown, my reminiscences may 
be of interest to some, and my exploits in the 
forest and on the fjord may be amusing to 
others ; while the fighting through a rebellion 
and the description of a shipwreck may be 
considered as pieces de resistance for the more 




Family tree — Caractacus — Shoes and stockings for King 

Charles's army — The cognizance of the Black Prince i 


Travels abroad — Duke of Kent's carriage — The Land- 
gravine of Hesse-Homburg — Lord liurghersh's con- 
cert — My sister's wedding . . .7 


Home again — School-days — Old times at Bath — 
Dramatic fete — Off to France — An old-fashioned 
table iVhote — Revolution of 1830 — Down the 
Rhone in a rowing-boat- — A comfortable hotel — 
Nimes ...... 



Nimes — Monsieur Frossard — Interesting excursions — 
A nice cup of tea — " Soupe au caillou " — Haunted 
room — A real live ghost — First ironworks at Alais — 
Albin Colomb ..... 





Old Rodmarton again — My commission — A sad story — 
An inspection dinner — Squad drill — Enniskillen — 
Ordered abroad — Good-bye to friends at Glen Dye 
— Placed under arrest — Cork 




Our transport — Voyage — A curious meeting at sea — 
The grog-tub — Falls of Montmorency — A squall — 
Quebec — Lord Gosford — Sir John Colborne — Falls 
of Niagara — Theatricals — Winter picnics . -52 


Death of William IV^ — Accession of Queen Victoria — 
Commencement of Canadian Rebellion — Rebels 
drilling — Meets of foxhounds and six counties — 
Duels — Expedition to St. Charles and St. Denis . 64 


Second expedition to St. Denis — Monsieur Papineau- 
St. Eustache — A hair's-breadth escape 



Down to Quebec — Arrival of Guards — Lord Durham — 
Sympathisers — Invasion of Canada — Guards' cam- 
paign — Poor Jack Saville — A sad story — Military 
survey — A remarkable goose 



Lord Charles Beauclerk — Three months' leave — Race 
across the Atlantic — Scotland again — Back to 
Montreal — Survey — Long leave — London — Pre- 
sented to Her Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria — 
Society . . . .110 

— !■■ 





Moose hunting — Bush - craft — My first moose — An 
exciting run — Fishing — Races — A heavy load — 
Back to the Indian village . . .122 


Trip to Rawdon — Darwin's shanty — A large moose — 
Nearly losing an earl — A long day's work 



Return to Canada after long leave of absence — Particu- 
lar service — London, Canada West — Lake St. Clair 
— Steeple-chase — A deserter — A crafty detective — 
Toronto — ^Ordered to West Indies 



Embark in transport Premier — Wrecked at Cape Chatte 
— Landing ..... 



Journey to Quebec — Bring up Royals to Quebec in 
Unicorn — Mentioned in despatches — Promoted 
Captain — New York — Voyage home — An honest 
man . . . . . .183 


Voyage to West Indies — Friends at Barbadoes — Tobago 
and Grenada ..... 






Voyage to Halifax — Salmon fishing — Curing a doctor of 

hydrophobia— Moose and cariboo shooting . 212 


Still at Halifax — Two singular stories — The sweet waters 
of Halifax — Voyage to England — Winchester — 
Lord Frederick Fitz-Clarencc— Preparations for 
Crimean War . . , .222 



Rodmarton Rector)- .... 


Rodinarton Church .... 

l\ige 5 

The Duke of Kent's Travelling Carriage 


(lien Dye ..... 


Falls of Montmorency 


Niagara Falls ..... 


Lieut. Lysons's Tandem 


Lord Mulgrave's Four-in-hand 


Cedar Board Camp .... 


Games in Darwin's Shanty 


Our Camp in the Swamp . 


Wreck of the Transport Premier 


Landing Troops from the Wreck 

1 80 

Canadian Stage Sleigh 



United States Stage Sleigh 


Scarborough, Tobago 


Grenada ...... 


Indian Wigwams .... 



Family tree — Caractacus — Shoes and stockings for King 
Charles's army The cognizance of the Black Prince. 

It is customary, I believe, when writing an 
autobiography, to begin with a description of 
one's ancestors for two or three hundred years 
before making one's appearance on the world's 
stage ; on the principle, I suppose, that as life 
is so short it is as well to get a good balance 
credit before opening the account. 

My father and uncle were well-known and 
distinguished antiquaries and authors. They 
wrote the Environs of London, The Magna 
Britannia, and other works still considered the 
best authorities. My brother also took up the 
running, and cultivated our ancient family tree 
so successfully that its roots struck down to 
Adam. I remember seeing about half-way up 




the trunk a big knot with the name of Carac- 
tacus on it. He was the gentleman who was 
said to have gone to Rome and burnt his fingers 
in a charcoal brazier, and whose daughter 
married General Pudens, Claudius Caesar's 
Quartermaster - General. According to my 
brother's account, we are lineally descended 
from that ancient Briton. 

One of my ancestors, Mr. Thomas Lysons, 
was Mayor of Worcester in 1651 ; and he had 
the honour of receiving King Charles II. in 
that city. The following notice of it occurs in 
Boscobel, p. 6 : — 

" The next day after His Majesty's arrival 
being Saturday, 23rd August, he was proclaimed 
King of Great Britain, France, and Ireland, by 
Mr. Thomas Lisons, Mayor, and Mr. James 
Bridges, Sheriff of that loyal city, with great 

Heath also mentions this circumstance in his 
Chronic k of the Civil War, and Clarendon in 
his History of the Rebellion further states : 
" The city opened their gates and received the 
king with all the demonstrations of affection 
and duty that could be expressed, and made 




such provision for the army that it wanted 
nothing that it could desire ; the Mayor, Mr. 
Thomas Lysons, taking care for the present 
provision of shoes and stockings, the want 
whereof in so long a march was very apparent 
and grievous." 

The army was said to number 13,000. 
They had marched from Scotland, 300 miles, 
in three weeks. 

The following account of the crest, arms, and 
motto of the family may be of interest. 

The sun rising out of a bank of clouds. 
This was the cognizance of Edward the Black 
Prince, which he permitted his followers to 
assume. Amongst those followers was a large 
Welch contingent to the number of 1000, some 
say 6000 and others 12,000. Among them 
were one or two of the family of Leison, who 
have borne this cognizance ever since. The 
occasion of its assumption was as follows : — 

"In 1345 King Edward, being in France 
with his army about to engage with King 
Philip VI. at Crecy (Cressy), gave the chief 
command to his son the young Prince of Wales, 
then sixteen years old. 



" A little before the fight began, (lod, to 
show that He was Lord of Hosts and the only 
giver of victory, caused the black clouds to 
pour down upon them plenty of water, like so 
many funeral tears, enarching the air with a 
spacious rainbow, and discharged sundry peals 
of thunder. The sun also, which before had 
hid his face under a black cloud, now broke 
forth, shining full in the l^renchmen's faces and 
on the backs of the Englishmen." — Harkian 
Miscellany, vol. iii. p. 138. 

Froissart says it was an eclipse of the sun. 

"In gratitude for the signal victory thus 
obtained by the intervention of Providence, the 
young prince assumed the cognizance which 
recorded the fact." 

Dellaway's Heraldic Researches says : "It 
was the cognizance of the Black Prince, and 
the motto ' Valebit ' became, probably, the war- 
cry of the prince's followers." 

Doubtless other Welch families have a right 
to the same arms, though from the rarity of 
this bearing few seem to have retained them. 

The earliest record I have of my own 
existence is my baptismal certificate, which 

KAfil.Y YFA.'iS 

States that I was born on the ist of August 
1816 at Rodiiiarton, in the county of Glou- 
cester ; and as the n^ctor of the parish has 
si}j^ned tin's valuable document, I suppose it 
must be true, but I don't recollect it. 


During my early years I indulged in the 
usual juvenile occupations of scarlet fever, 
whooping cough, measles, etc., and invariably, 
as in duty bound, selected the most inconvenient 
times for these little "divertissements." 

In those times the springs and summers 
were beautiful ; they were the grand old days 



when King George was on the throne. I 
remember hearing of His Majesty's death, and 
the accession and coronation of King William. 
There was a great village feast on the occasion, 
and there were little flags and coloured lamps 
hung all about the trees. I danced with the 
girls on the village green. Those were jolly 
days ! 






Travels abroad — Duke of Kent's carriage — The Landgravine of 
Hesse-Homburg — Lord Burghersh's concert — My sister's 

The first great event of my life was a trip 
abroad with my father, mother, three sisters, 
and brother. There were no railways at that 
time and but few steamers. My father pur- 
chased two wonderful travelling carriages for the 
journey, one of which had been built at Vienna 
for the Duke of Kent. It was a ponderous 
thing, but very comfortable and convenient. It 
had windows in front and a long boot sticking 
out underneath them ; at night you could push 
up the lower part of the front and draw out two 
very comfortable beds. This arrangement was 
called a Dormeuse. Behind there was a heavy- 
looking rumble, with an Imperial strapped to 
the back of it ; there were also Imperials on the 
top of the carriage. 




The second vehicle was a comfortable 
chariot, with a coach-box in front and a dickey 
behind. It was fitted inside with a writing- 
desk, containing drawers and pigeon-holes, 
very convenient for the girls when at their 
lessons. We had a good Swiss courier 



("Henri"), a footman (Richard Eyles), and 
a maid (Hannah Boxwell). 

On the 22nd May 1824 we started from 
Dover in the steamer Arrozu. The wind 
blew hard, and it took us over six hours to 
get to Calais. I can't say I quite enjoyed the 
trip, though the fish seemed highly delighted 
to make my acquaintance. We then travelled 


post to Brussels, Cologne, and up the Rhine, 
sleeping one night in the old convent on the 
island of Rolandswerth, now called Nonnen- 
werth, then used as an hotel, to which we crossed 
in a ferry-boat, leaving our carriages at Roland- 
seek ; from there we went on to Frankfort. 

While we were staying there my father 
drove over by invitation to lunch with the 
Landgravine of Hesse- Homburg, the daughter 
of George III., who then lived at the Schloss 
at Homburg, and to present to her Royal 
Highness the last volume of his work the 
Magna Britannia. I had the good fortune to 
be taken over in the carriage. I was not to go 
in to the luncheon ; but as far as I can recollect, 
I was very well taken care of, and I clearly 
remember being sent to see some very big 
fish in a pond. 

From Frankfort we travelled on to Switzer- 
land ; and having arrived at Zug, my brother, 
my eldest sister, and I, started off on an excur- 
sion up the Rigi. When we were half-way 
up the mountain it came on to rain ; however, 
we got to the chalet, my sister riding on a 
mule, my brother and I walking. There was 



no grand hotel in those days, only a simple 
Swiss chalet, where we found one German 
gentleman who had been waiting several days 
to see the sun rise. Next day the weather 
continued very bad. We had no books, pens, 
or paper ; all we could find in the house was 
part of a pack of cards, so we set to work 
and invented a game to suit the cards we had. 
This attracted the attention of the phlegmatic 
German, and we soon fraternised; and although 
my sister and I could not understand a word he 
said, we became great friends and passed quite 
a merry time. On the fourth day, seeing no 
chance of a change, and thinking our friends 
below might be getting anxious about us, we 
determined to make a start and try to get down 
to rejoin our family party. We succeeded, but 
not without some difficulty and a little danger ; 
my sister was carried down in a chaise a 
portcur. All the little streamlets were swollen 
into torrents and very difficult to cross ; how- 
ever, we got safe to our friends again. 

At Berne we remained some weeks and 
met several friends and acquaintances ; a part 
of the time Lord Byron was there. 




I will not attempt to describe the countries 
or places through which we passed, as the 
recollections of boyhood would be of little 
value. I will only allude to a few incidents 
that stand out prominently in my memory, like 
milestones, to mark the lapse of time. 

We visited many beautiful places in Switzer- 
land, and then crossed the Simplon to Milan, 
where I went to the celebrated theatre 
"La Scala" and heard my first opera. The 
Donna del Lago was performed, and Garcia 
was prima donna. I thought it very beautiful, 
and the ballet amused me much, but I have 
seen far better dancing since. 

From Milan we travelled on to Bologna, and 
there I remember well seeing the races, which 
were run by horses without riders. It was a 
curious sight ; first the horses were led along 
the course to be looked at. They were a 
wretched lot, covered with little flappers having 
spurs on them to urge them on, — with the 
exception of one, a fine- looking horse with 
nothing on him but a little blue distinguishing 
flag fastened at the bottom of his mane ; we 
were told he was an English horse, and that he 



had won several races. We were well placed 
in a window not far from the finish. We 
heard the shouting of the people as the 
horses approached us. First came the English 
horse taking it quite easy. The crowd closed 
in behind him, and it was several minutes 
before the other horses came. At last we saw 
them galloping along, all together, with their 
flappers and flags flying all about ; which was 
first it was difficult to say, but there was no 
doubt about the winner. 

From Bologna we travelled on over the 
Apennines, and arrived at the New York Hotel, 
in Florence, on the 7th of October. All this 
long journey from Switzerland we performed 
with vetturino horses, assisted up the steep 
parts of the Apennines by a pair of oxen to 
each carriage. 

After a short stay at the hotel my father 
succeeded in procuring excellent apartments, 
the first floor of the Palazzo Settimanni, with 
a few rooms on the ground -floor, which he 
took for six months ; the owner, Marchesa 
Settimanni, retiring to the upper part of the 
building. The rooms were splendid ; I re- 



member well the hall, 75 feet by 45 and lofty 
in proportion. 

The society at Florence, both English as 
well as Italian, was very large and distin- 
guished. Amongst other celebrities was a 
very rich Russian, Count Demidoff, who de- 
rived the greater part of his wealth from gold 
mines and malachite quarries. He had a splen- 
did house, with a theatre attached to it, and 
gave magnificent entertainments. Mr. and 
Mrs. George Baring, the founders of the sect 
that bore their name, were also there, and we 
found many friends and relations. 

Lord Burghersh, who was our Minister, and 
who was a very talented amateur musician, had 
composed an opera, which he was busy in get- 
ting up when we arrived. My sisters had de- 
veloped a considerable talent for music ; and as 
they took lessons from the celebrated master, 
Signor Magnelli, who was to be leader of 
the orchestra at the opera, they were soon 
enlisted into the company of chorus singers. 
Our cousins, the Pocklingtons, were also of the 

The first grand performance came off on the 




1 6th November, some fine singers taking the 
principal parts, — Signora Bonini, Veluti, the 
famous soprano, Franceschini, and Madame 
Bomballes, lady of the Austrian Ambassador. 
The performance was a great success, and 
about 700 people were present. The opera 
was repeated several times afterwards. 

From Florence we went on to Pisa, and 
after a stay of some weeks there returned to 

At Palazzo Settimonni my father and mother 
gave some very good musical parties, in which 
Peselli, Magnelli, Campana, Fabri, the Pock- 
lingtons, and my sisters sang. My youngest 
sister, quite a child, who acquitted herself extra- 
ordinarily well, was considered quite a prodigy. 

Towards the end of the summer we went up 
to the baths of Lucca, where we found a few 
friends, including Sir James Carnegie, whose 
acquaintance we had made at Florence. 

On the 31st August we left the baths and 
went on to Genoa. We passed through a wild 
mountainous country cill we came to a tunnel 
or gallery, emerging from which we suddenly 
burst out on to a splendid view of the bay and 



proud city of Genoa, which struck me as the 
most beautiful thing I had seen. From Genoa 
we went back by Spezia to Florence. 

On the nth October we started again 
with a procession of four carriages, each with 
four horses, — our two leviathans, Sir James 
Carnegie's, and the carriage of Mrs. Pochin, 
a friend of my father. It was not considered 
safe travelling in that part of Italy at the time, 
so after dark we took an escort of one Austrian 
soldier on each carriage, which I thought great 

On the 15th October we arrived at Rome, 
and put up at the Hotel de 1' Europe. After 
seeing sights for two, or three days, we drove 
on again to Naples. There my father got 
very good apartments in the Chiaja, No. 61, 
about 200 yards from the west end of the 
Villa Reale. 

Here, on the 14th November 1825, my 
beautiful sister and favourite playfellow, Char- 
lotte, was married to Sir James Carnegie. The 
ceremony took place at the house of the 
British Ambassador, Mr. Hill. He and his 
attache were present, and the Rev. Mr. Battis- 



combe officiated. There was a grand ddjcilncr 
at our house ; but it was a sad day for me — I 
lost my best companion. 

On the 2ist of January, in the following 
year, I saw a rare sight in Naples — deep 
snow ! The Lazaroni became quite lively 
and made snow men. 

In Naples my father, mother, and sisters 
went out very much in society. Amongst 
many other houses, they went to evening 
parties at Princess Gabrielli's, the daughter of 
Lucien Bonaparte, whom they also met there. 
My sisters took singing lessons of the famous 
master, Crescentini, and the celebrated Catalani 
often came to our house. She was getting old, 
but would sometimes sing quietly and most 
good-naturedly to us. We passed an agree- 
able winter at Naples, which we left on 28th 
February 1826, travelling back to Rome, 
where we arrived on the 2nd March. My 
father took a charming house on the Trinita 
dei Monti ; it had been the residence of 
Claude Lorraine. From the windows there 
was a splendid view of St. Peter's, the castle 
of St. Angelo, with the Monte Mario in the 





background, and the Hotel de I'Europe just 
below us, where Sir James Carnegie and my 
sister were staying. 

I saw many of the grand ceremonies at St. 
Peter's, and was much impressed by the 
Pope's benediction given from a balcony in 
front of the church. 

We left Rome again on the 27th April 1826 
and travelled north to Venice, where we put 
up at the Albergo Reale on the Riva dei 
Schiavoni, opposite the island and church of St. 
Giorgio. My father hired a very nice gondola, 
and the good gondoliere, with whom I made 
great friends, taught me to row the gondola, 
not an easy thing to do with only one long oar. 
On the 19th May we set off again through 
Styria to Vienna ; and then, having visited 
Saltzburg, Innsbruck, and Munich, we made 
our way once more to the beautiful valley of 
Interlaken, where we arrived on the 29th 
July. It was a most delightful place in those 
days. There was only one hotel, built like a 
chalet, to which we went at first, but after- 
wards we moved into Sicler's boarding-house. 
The walks about the mountains were beautiful. 
l9 c 



Our first excursion was to the valley of 
Lauterbrunnen, where we saw the lofty fall 
of the Staubach. We then went over the 
Great and Little Scheidegg to Grindelwald, 
on to the glacier of Rosenlaui and the falls 
of the Reichenbach, then back to Interlaken 
by Meiringen and l^rienz. On the highest 
point of the Little Scheidegg we suddenly 
turned from scorching sun to a mass of deep 
snow, and I remember my sister saying she 
had picked strawberries with one hand and 
gathered snow with the other ; probably she 
made rather a "long arm." It puts me in 
mind of a story I heard in Canada of an officer 
of the Coldstream Guards, who boasted of 
having made a wonderful right and left shot, 
killing a snipe with one barrel and a large bull 
moose with the other. So he did, but the 
first shot was fired in September, the second 
in the February following. 

I caught some fish in the lake of Brienz, 
and discovered a little lake which was full of 
crayfish, which I used to catch in considerable 
numbers. My method of fishing for them was 
simple. I lay down on the bank quietly and 



put my hand into the holes underneath it ; the 
crayfish caught hold of my fingers and I pulled 
them out ; when a big one came he generally 
let me know. 

We meide many other beautiful excursions, 
my father, who was very lame, crossing the 
mountains in a chaise a porteur, my brother 
and I walking, the rest of the party either 
riding on mules or walking ; it was most 

On the 4th September we left Interlaken 
with great regret. We then journeyed on to 
Geneva, passing round by the Savoy side of 
the lake through Thonon ; from Geneva we 
travelled post to Dijon. 


Home again — School-days — Old times at Bath — Dramatic 
fete — Off to France — An old-fashioned table cVhote — 
Revolution of 1830 — Down the Rhone in a rowing-boat 
— A comfortable hotel — Nimes. 

On the 3rd October I left my father and 
mother, and returned to England with my 
brother, he to college, I to school. For the 
following few years I had to enjoy the charms 
of education, first at a private school at Bath, 
kept by the Rev. Harvey Marryat (it was 
called the " Madras Classical School "), then at 
Shrewsbury School, under the celebrated Dr. 
Butler. I was never a brilliant classical scholar ; 
but I was very good at mathematics and geo- 
graphy, and a capital swimmer and diver. On 
two occasions, when at Shrewsbury, I had the 
good fortune to save boys from drowning. 

The first was a very simple case. I was 
walking home from our bathing- place with a 




friend, when we saw a fellow gesticulating and 
shouting on the bank of the river. We ran up 
to him and found his companion, a big town 
boy, positively drowning within arm's length of 
the bank. I ran down to the water's edge just 
as he sank, I believe, the second time. He came 
up again and I seized him by the wrist, my 
companion caught my other hand, and the lad 
who had been shouting got hold of him ; we 
all three pulled away and landed the unfortunate 
fellow, three-parts drowned. 

The second occasion happened at what was 
called the big bathing-place. A boy called 
Bunty Hickman, who could not swim a stroke, 
was wading about on a sandbank. Suddenly he 
shouted out, " Help ! help ! I can't stop myself," 
and sure enough he had waded in too deep, and 
was being carried down bodily by the strong 
stream into deep water. I was not far off, 
bathing also. I swam to his assistance, just 
reaching him as the water was playfully dap- 
pling under his chin. I got round behind 
him, and told him to keep still and not catch 
hold of me. He was very good, and let me take 
hold of him under his two arms. I then swam 

•>'*• . 

'.*^'«'. ^^jj^^ 



with him diagonally down stream across the 
river, and landed him safely on the opposite 
bank. Unfortunately I had forgotten that his 
clothes were left on the other side ; however, 
we soon set that right by swimming over and 
bringing them to him in bundles tied on our 
heads. Very many years afterwards I received 
a letter from him reminding me of the incident, 
and thanking me for saving his life. 

I usually spent my holidays at home, but 
one year I was fortunate enough to be taken to 
Bath. In those days Bath was as fashionable 
as London, and during the season was the place 
of resort for the highest people in the land. 
One year my father took a house there for the 
whole family, me amongst the number. Per- 
haps what I remember most vividly are the 
excellent " Sally Lunns," the brown Georges, 
and Oliver's biscuits ; but I also recollect a very 
smart party given by my mother. I ran down 
to see the ladies arrive in their Sedan chairs. 
First I heard a tremendous double knock at the 
door ; as soon as the door was opened, in came 
two stalwart men in long blue coats with capes, 
bearing the chair, which they put down in the 

• -• , 



OSS the 
that his 
^er and 
on our 

le, but 
ken to 
I place 

3r the 


It the 

middle of the passage. The poles were run 
back, and as soon as the door of the house was 
closed, one man stepped up and raised the 
square top, while the other, hat in hand, opened 
the door of the chair, and out from her band- 
box walked a dainty lady in full dress. On 
leaving the house the chair was carried out 
backwards ; it was then put down on the 
pavement while the chairmen turned to the 
right-about, ran the poles into their proper 
places, and put the ends of them in the leather 
slings that hung from their shoulders, and off 
they went. I saw all the ladies arrive and go 
away ; this, I thought, with the exception of 
the supper, was the best part of the entertain- 

The theatre at Bath was then in very high 
repute, many of the most celebrated actors 
making their ddbtUs on its boards. There was, 
moreover, a great Bath Dramatic Fete every 
year that people flocked from all parts of the 
country to see. I remember the following 
story which I heard about it : — 

A gentleman in Scotland was anxious to 
see the fete. He wrote, and, after much 



trouble, succeeded in getting a ticket for seven 
guineas, and secured a bed at the York House 
Hotel. He travelled night and day, arriving in 
Bath in the afternoon, got some dinner, and then 
went up to his room to get a nap before dress- 
ing, telling the boots to awake him at seven 
o'clock. He was very tired after his journey, 
and soon slept soundly. At seven o'clock the 
boots came and called him. The gentleman 
looked about, rubbed his eyes, and said, "Oh, 
it can't be seven, it is daylight." "Yes, sir," 
said the boots, " it has been daylight for the last 
hour and more." " But the fete f' "Yes, sir, 
a great success ; the ladies and gentlemen have 
only just come back from it." It was morning ! 

During the holidays of 1831 it was decided 
that I was to go into the army, and I was con- 
sequently taken away from Shrewsbury school, 
and sent to the south of France to learn French, 
My elder brother, who was a capital linguist, 
volunteered to take me. 

I started with my brother in a small steamer 
and crossed to Havre. We went on in a river 
steamer up the Seine to Rouen, where we 
stopped a day to see the beautiful churches, the 



Grande Horloge, etc. ; and then, finding that 
all the places in the diligences were taken for 
several days to come, my brother joined with 
a gentleman we met at the tabk cThote in the 
purchase of an old phaeton, in which we travelled 
post to Paris, where we sold our vehicle again 
with very little loss. We stayed at the " Hotel 
de Bruxelles," Rue Richelieu, corner of Rue 
St-Honore, a good old-fashioned house. We 
there made acquaintance with a real table 
ciliote ; the host, a grand old French gentleman, 
Monsieur Laddriere, sat at the head of the 
table, his wife opposite to him, and his daughter, 
a fine handsome girl, sat next to my brother. 
A few years later he became very intimately 
acquainted with the family, as he happened to 
be staying at the hotel during the revolution of 
1830, including the "Three glorious days of 
July," and was instrumental in saving the hotel 
from destruction, by going to the gates at the 
right moment with his handsome young friend, 
the daughter of the hotel, and two bottles of 
wine under his arms, and inviting some of the 
patriots to come in and fire from the windows. 
The heaviest part of the fighting was round 




that hotel ; the young lady received the croix 
(Vhonneur afterwards. 

A great friend of my brother, a regular John 
Bull, boasted that he had travelled all over 
France, using only two phrases : " et moi aussi," 
and "c'est egal," and he certainly used them 
with great success. At the commencement of 
the troublous times, he wished to see everything 
that was going on, so he followed the crowds 
about. One day he found a great stampede, 
•'1 j^'oing in one direction. Being very anxious 
to tind out where all the people were going, he 
took out his little vocabulary and hunted out 
what he thought would do; he hit upon "Ou 
va tout le monde ?" and tried to get it off by 
heart, reading as he went along, " Ou va tout le 
monde? " " Ou va tout le monde.'* " glancing up 
now and then. At last he thought he saw a 
good-natured looking Frenchman, so he seized 
him by the button-hole, and came out with his 
" Oil va tout le monde ? " The man stared at 
him for a moment, then burst out laughing 
and shouted, " How the devil should 1 
know?" He was an Englishman, who could 
speak no French. 



To return to our journey, we rumbled on by 
diligence to Dijon, and then by small steamers 
along the canals and down the Saone to Lyons. 
There my brother endeavoured to purchase a 
boat to go down the Rhone, but the weather 
was so bad that we had to go on by land to 
Valence, where he was able to carry out his 
intention, buying one of the open, flat-bottomed 
boats of the country, and hiring a man who 
was said to be a good oar and to know the 
river well. We shot all the rapids successfully, 
and arriving at St-Andiol the first night went 
to the hotel, a very primitive establishment. 
A stout, good-natured looking landlady came 
out to receive us, and ushered us up into a 
large square room, with a substantial, rough- 
looking table in the centre, and four very 
broad beds in each corner. She said 
the beds were calculated to carry eight 
persons each, but as no one had as yet 
come in we should probably have one all to 

We got a very fair supper, and then set to 
work and barricaded the door with all the 
articles of furniture we could find in the room 




— there was no lock to it — this done, we turned 
in, each in a separate octuple bed. Tired after 
our long day's work, having both of us taken 
an oar, we slept till morning, without having 
to sustain a siege. 

As soon as we removed the barricades and 
opened the door, in order to get some water, 
we were invaded by a multitude of women and 
children from the village, who insisted on re- 
maining to see us dress, and pulled all our 
things out of our carpet-bags. We had some 
difficulty in preventing them putting them on. 
Their astonishment culminated when we began 
to clean our teeth ; they all stood round us and 
exclaimed in wonder, " Vois done ! ils polissent 
leurs dents." The moment we had finished 
and put down our tooth-brushes, there was a 
general rush for them, each wishing to "polir 
ses dents," in succession ; they were much 
surprised when we strenuously put a stop to 
their proceedings. 

At length our landlady came to our relief, 
and turned them all out that we might have 
our breakfast. We then asked for our bill. 
However ignorant the good old lady may have 




been in other matters, she knew well how to 
make charges, which we found to be about six 
times as much as the highest Paris prices. 
My brother offered to pay the same as he had 
done in Paris, but refused to pay more, and 
there was a great fight. At last he said he 
would go and show the bill to the Prefect, 
and we sallied forth to carry our threat into 
execution ; but no one would tell us the way 
to the Prefecture, so we walked quietly up the 
street, and fortunately came across a fine-look- 
ing gendarme. He was very civil, and told us 
at once where to go, and offered to accompany 
us. At this juncture the hotel people, who had 
been following us in the distance, rushed up, and 
begged us not to go to the Prefect, promising 
to take anything we liked rather than that we 
should do so. An agreement was soon arrived 
at ; we thanked our civil gendarme, and all 
returned together, the landlady immediately 
resuming her bonhomie. We had a grand pro- 
cession down to our boat, the landlady at the 
head of it, and we parted the best of friends, 
our worthy hostess presenting us with a botde 
of excellent sparkling red wine as we embarked. 



So ended our somewhat amusing visit to St- 

We continued our trip down the Rh6ne, 
shot the Pont St-Esprit in safety, and arrived 
at Avignon, where we sold our boat, and went 
on by diligence to Nimes. 


Njimcs — Monsieur Frossaricl — Interesting,' excursions — A nirc 
cup of tea — " Soupe au caillou " — Haunted room — A real 
live ghost — First ironworks at Alais — Albin Colonib. 

I SPENT two very happy years at Nimes with 
Monsieur PVossard, who had married a cousin 
of mine, Miss Trye ; he was an extremely 
clever, accomplished Protestant clergyman. 
During the time I was with him, he was 
employed in writing a book entitled, " Tableaux 
Pittoresques, Scientifiques, et Morals de Nimes 
et de ses environs a vingt lieues a la ronde " 
(E. B. D. Frossard). 

He was illustrating the work himself, not 
only taking the sketches from nature, but 
drawing them with veiy fine steel pens on 
smooth stones ready for the printer's hand ; 
they were very artistic and successful. I had 
the advantage of accompanying him on all his 
excursions in quest of information and sketches. 


We visited a great many very interesting 
places — amongst others, Aiguesmortes, built 
on the sands close to the Medi mean. It 
was surrounded by a wall with towers, very 
like what one can imagine Troy to have been. 
In the inn, which was very primitive, we got 
supper, and asked if they could give us some 
tea. " Oh yes," said the maid with the wooden 
shoes, " I will send to the chemist ; I know he 
has it." Supper came ; we ate what was put 
before us. There were some enormous oysters, 
but we discovered that most o^ hem were 
inhabited by little crabs which . did not 
relish. There was another dish we did not 
like the appearance of — a dark-looking mashed 
vegetable. At last we asked if our tea was 
coming. " Mais le voila, Monsieur," said the 
damsel of the wooden shoes, pointing to the 
rejected vegetable. She assured us she had 
boiled it three or four times in fresh water, but 
could not get it to look quite clean ! Tea was 
little known then in France. At Nimes I 
was invited to an afternoon party by a lady 
who had visited England. As a compliment to 
me she gave tea, which was served very nicely 




on a pretty little table, everythinjj^ complete. 
I happened to hand the sugar- which was in 
a handsome little silver basin, with a very 
pretty pair of su<,'ar-tongs on the top of it^ — to 
a lady. She took up the tonj^s, e.xamined 
them carefully, e.xclaiming, " Mais (jue c'est 
joli," and helped herself to sugar with her 

We also visited St-Gilles, where there is a 
very ancient and richly -ornamented facade to 
the church ; there are three doors in it, each 
surmounted by a large semicircular arch, the 
whole facade being covered with the most 
elaborate carving on stone. There is also a 
celebrated tower at St-Gilles, containing a 
curious spiral staircase, called " La Vis de St- 
Gilles," which is much thought of and studied 
by architects. The peculiarity of it is that the 
same stone which forms a step is so shaped 
underneath as to form a portion of the arched 
roof or ceiling of the stairs below ; this arched 
ceiling, which is smooth and even, winds con- 
tinuously from the bottom to the top of the 
tower. When I was there the upper part of 
the tower was in ruins. 





We visited Aries, celebrated for its Roman 
antiquities, and its pretty girls with their head- 
dresses of broad black ribbon ; Beaucaire, 
where the great annual fair was held ; Avignon, 
where the palace of the duplicate Popes still 
remains ; the grand Roman aqueduct called the 
Pont du Gard, and many other places of 
interest. We also traversed the wild stony 
plains of the Tanargue, and rejoiced in the 
picturesque beauties of the Cevennes. 

Mr. Frossard was a charming companion, 
and we tramped along the roads carrying our 
valises slung over our shoulders, singing, 
laughing, and telling stories ; it was a merry 

We were returning from a very pleasant 
trip to Alais, when we stopped late in the 
evening at a curious old inn which had been 
an ancient chateau. When we asked if they 
could give us beds, the landlord said the inn 
was full of returning drovers, but if " le jeune 
homme " did not object to sleeping in the 
haunted room, he thought he could manage it. 
I said I was not in the least afraid of ghosts, 
so it was arrcL ^^ed accordingly. We had a 



very fair supper all amongst the drovers, who 
were capital fellows. One of them told us 
the following very amusing story with great 
effect : — 

" There was a well-to-do farmer and his wife 
who lived in a small farmhouse by the road- 
side a few miles from Alais. 

" One day they had to go to the town on 
business, leaving their daughter — a nice girl 
about twelve years old — in charge of the house. 
Not long after they had started, an old man 
knocked at the door, and the girl went to see 
who it was. The man begged to be admitted, 
as it was very cold, and he was very tired and 
hungry, but he said he did not ask anything 
from her. At first she refused, saying her 
mother had desired her not to let any one into 
the house ; however, he seemed a very well- 
spoken, civil old man, and looked so tired, 
that she let him in. 

" He sat down by the fire, and placed at 
his side a small sack he had on his shoulders ; 
presently he put his hand into his sack and 
produced a clean white pebble. He then asked 
her if she could lend him a saucepan with some 



water in it, as he wished to make some ' soupe 
au caillou.' She was much astonished at this, 
and became very curious to see how it was 
going to be done, as she thought she might 
be able to teach her mother something worth 
knowing ; so she got a good big saucepan full 
of water and gave it to the old man, and sat 
down on a little stool close to him to watch 
the proceedings. He then put the pan on the 
fire to boil ; seeing a long -handled spoon 
hanging by the chimney- side, he asked per- 
mission to use it, which being granted, he 
began quietly to stir his soup round and round, 
the girl becoming more and more interested. 
He was a nice old man, talking to her quietly 
and civilly, and wanting nothing, but seeming 
anxious to teach her. He said that some people 
liked the flavour of onions in their soup ; he 
didn't know, perhaps it might be an improve- 
ment. She jumped up at once, and went and 
got two or three nice onions, which he put in 
the pot, and then continued stirring it round 
and round. Before long, perceiving a side of 
bacon hanging up under the chimney, he 
suggested that many people liked a good bit 



of bacon in their soup ; he did not care for it 
himself, but asked what she thought. The girl, 
wishing the soup to be a great success, at once 
got a knife, cut a good chunk of bacon off, and 
having wiped it nicely, popped it into the pot, 
and the old man went on quietly stirring it 
round and round. Seeing some haricot soaking 
in a bowl on the table preparatory to their 
being cooked for the evening meal, he re- 
marked that they were very good things and 
did very well in soup, and that turnips also 
added much to its flavour. Off went the little 
girl and brought back a nice supply of both, 
and into the pot they went, and the old man 
continued stirring round and round ; salt and 
pepper and a few small herbs were added, and 
the pot began to emit a very delicious savour, 
and after sj^rinkling in a little flour just to 
thicken the compound, the old man proclaimed 
his ' soupe au caillou ' to be complete. The 
girl, delighted at the success, ran away to get 
a little round table, on which she put a nice 
white cloth, two white basins with spoons, and 
a couple of good hunches of bread. I need 
not say they had a delicious repast together. 



"After this the little girl thanked the old 
man very much for teaching her to make such 
delicious soup out of a pebble ! He presented 
her with the 'caillou,' and departed. 

" When the farmer and his wife returned 
home, the girl ran out to meet them, radiant 
with delight, described to them how she 
had learnt to make ' soupe au caillou,' and 
said she could give them soup every day, 
for the good old man had left her the 'caillou,' 
which she produced in triumph." 

After a little more talk with the good- 
natured drovers, we wished them good -night 
and retired to bed, as we were to be called 
very early next morning in order to go on to 
Nimes by the diligence. 

, • My haunted room was rather dismal. There 
was an old-fashioned four- posted bed with 
heavy curtains all round it, some curious old, 
heavy pieces of furniture, and the remains of 
some old tapestry, the colours of which were 
well-nigh obliterated by age. However, the 
bed looked comfortable, so I tumbled in and 
slept like a top, till at length I began to dream 
that something was in the room. I awoke 



and thought I saw a glimmering light. I 
remained quiet and rubbed my eyes, and fixed 
them on the curtains at the bottom of the bed, 
where I thought I saw the light ; presently 
I heard a slight rustle, and the curtains moved 
a little, showing between them a narrow strip 
of pale light. I then saw distinctly a pale 
sallow face with the light flickering upon its 
cheeks. I was certainly awake, there could 
be no mistake ; I started up, when the lips 
moved, and a shrill voice cried, " Levez-vous, 
Monsieur, vite, levez - vous, la diligence va 

I made an interesting trip to Malaucene, and 
ascended the Mont Ventoux to see the sun 
rise ; only, as far as we were concerned, it did 
not rise. We waited some two or three hours 
in the drizzle, sheltered under a rock, and 
were at last rewarded by having a beautiful 
view of the Alps. 

From Malaucene we went on to Orange 
and to the Fontaine de Vaucluse, the birth- 
place of Petrarch, a place well worth seeing. 
A good-sized river rises in a cavern at the 
foot of a perpendicular rock, and the large 



round pool where the springs boil and bubble 
up is as clear as crystal and of a beauti- 
ful deep blue ; from these springs a large 
stream flows, the volume of which seldom 

I went with Monsieur Frossard to see a 
mine that was being sunk, and some new iron- 
works that were being erected at Alais. We 
found a very intelligent Scotchman in charge 
of them, who showed us a large engine he 
was putting up which had been brought from 
England ; the cylinder was so large that they 
had been obliged to roll it along the roads, 
and pull down the parapets of all the bridges 
to let it pass over. 

At that time the engines in all the steamers 
in France, Switzerland, and Germany were 
English, and the engineers were Scotch. 

In 1834 my father died, and I was sent 
for to return to England. I left the Frossards 
and all my friends at Nimes, especially my 
constant companion, Albin Colomb, with great 
regret ; I had passed a happy time there, and 
had become quite a Frenchman. 

From that time I saw no more of my dear 



friend Albin until the year 1883, when, on 
my return home from the Riviera with my wife 
and eldest son, I decided to go and have a look 
at my old quarters at Nimes, and find out 
if there were any people still living there whom 
I had known in former days. 

We arrived late in the evening, and went 
to the Hotel Luxembourg on the esplanade. 
Next morning I had a talk with the landlord, 
and asked him if there was a gentleman of 
the name of Colomb still living there. " Mais 
oui," he replied. " Is his Christian name 
Albin?" "Oui, Monsieur, c'est Monsieur 
Albin Colomb." " Does he live over in that 
house .'^" I said, pointing to a large house 
across the esplanade, which I recollected 
well. "Yes," he replied, "that is his house, 
and it was his father's and grandfather's." I 
asked him how old Monsieur Colomb was ? 
"About your age, sir." He was evidently my 
old friend, so off I went with my son Dan to 
see if we could dig him out. 

I rang at the door, and a very neat tidy 
maid answered the bell. I asked if Monsieur 
Colomb was at home. "Yes, sir; who shall 

I I 



I say?" "Never mind the name; tell Mon- 
sieur Colomb a gentleman wishes to speak to 
him." On this, she showed us into a very 
handsome library. After waiting a little while 
the door opened, and in walked an elderly 
gentleman with spectacles and a bald head, 
not nijch like my handsome young friend of 
olden days. At first I began to doubt if it 
could be him ; he bowed politely but stiffly. 
I asked him a number of questions about 
people whom we had known when together ; 
he looked at me hard, and at last I asked him 
about some things that I alone could have 
known besides himself. I saw his eye lighten 
up ; he rushed forward and seized me in his 
arms, crying out, " C'est Daniel; c'est Daniel ! " 
We were the same warm friends we had been 
fifty years before. The next evening we went 
to dine with him, and we sat down sixteen of 
his family and mine ! The dinner was most 
handsome and recherche. 

To return to olden days — from Nimes I 
travelled night and day by a succession of 
diligences to Paris, passing through Anduze, 
Mende, St - Flour, Clermont, Nevers, and 



Fontainebleau, arriving at the Hotel Bruxelles, 
Paris, on the fifth day. 

I stopped a day or two in Paris to rest, 
and then went on to London, and home to 


Old Rodm.irton again — My commission — A sad story — An 
Inspection dinner — Sqiiad drill — Enniskillen — Ordered 
abroad — Good-bye to friends at Glen Dye — Placed under 
arrest — Cork. 

I FOUND a sad change at Rodmarton. The 
dear old village where I had spent my younger 
days and danced with the girls on the green was 
no longer to be my happy home ; our household 
gods were to pass into other hands. My eldest 
brother, who had married, decided to live at the 
old family place, Hempsted Court, near Glou- 
cester, and a curate was to occupy the rectory. 
My mother and sister were packing up to go away. 
As I was now getting on towards eighteen, 
it was considered advisable to make a push for 
my commission, and my brother-in-law. Sir 
James Carnegie, very kindly volunteered to 
make interest for me through General Arbuthnot 
and Lord Hill. A very short time after this I 



received the usual notifications of my appoint- 
ment to an ensigncy in the ist Royal Rei^iment. 
My good fortune was, however, the sequel 
to a very sad event. Two fine young officers, 
Ensigns Byers and Carr, sailed up from 
Athlone in their boat to dine and sleep at 
General Murray's, who lived on Hare Island. 
Next morning, they went down from the house 
early to get under weigh, and sail down again 
to Athlone in time for parade. It was blowing 
very hard, and the General and his daughters 
tried to induce them not to start. They were, 
however, determined to go. The boat was 
anchored near the shore, in the Kilineure, or 
inner lake, opposite the General's house. They 
went on board and got up their sails, but before 
they had gathered weigh a heavy squall struck 
them and capsized the little craft. They were 
both drowned. The poor old General seeing 
the boat go down so close to him went into the 
water to try to save the two young men, and got 
a severe chill, of which he died not long after. 
Ned Wetherall,^ son of the Colonel, got one of 
the ensigncies ; I got the other. 

1 Afterwards General Sir Edward Wetherall. 



I joined my regiment at Athlone on the 
20th February 1835, having a letter of intro- 
duction to the Major, Lachlan Maclean, who 
took me up and introduced me to Colonel 
Wetherall,' his wife, and charming daughter, 

It so happened that the regiment was being 
inspected by General Sir John Buchan, a 
splendid old Scotchman, pretty nearly seven 
feet high. ' . 

The Colonel had a quarter allotted to me, 
and sent an old soldier as a servant to take 
care of me, and told me to go and unpack, 
get dressed, and come to mess. There were 
no shell-jackets in those days ; we all dined 
buttoned up to the throat in our swallow-tailed 
full dress coats, with high stocks and sashes 
complete. It was a grand dinner ; we sat down 
about sixty, the General and his staff, the 
officers of the Cavalry, 3rd Drago"^*^ G' ^ds 
I think, the Horse Artilk:i y. hen 

dinner was over, the Colon „aiii,^ )r . ugs. 
Many officers sang very well, lait Captain 

1 Afterwards General Sir George Wetherall, Adjutant- 



M'Clintock, Royal Horse Artillery, sang beauti- 
fully, song after song of all sorts, old Sir John 
Huchan shaking his sides with laughter at the 
funny ones. At last the Colonel called out, 
"We have an ensign just joined, where is he ? 
he must sing his song. " It so happened I had 
a good strong voice, and could sing a little, so 
I piped up and did my best. I was heartily 
cheered — my fortune in the army was made. 
We sat there. General and all, singing, drink- 
ing, talking, and laughing, till we saw the broad 
daylight streaming in through the shutters. 
The Colonel then reminded Sir John that he 
had ordered a parade at seven. We all jumped 
up and ran away to our quarters to change our 
dress, and at the bugle-call every one was in 
his place as sober as a judge. The Colonel 
said I must do something, so he put the great 
regimental colour in my hand, and told me to 
hold fast by it, and go wherever the colour- 
sergeant told me to go. I believe all went 
right ; it was said to be a very successful 
parade, and I recollect I had to tip the drum- 
major a sovereign, when I gave up my charge, 
as he said to " wet the colour." 

I I 


The following day I commenced my squad 
drill under a very original old drill-sergeant. 
We had one particularly stupid recruit in our 
squad, and our sergeant's favourite speech to 
him was, "There you har again. Mulligan! 
Your 'ead's as 'ard as a 'osses 'uff, one might 
knock nails into't." 

I soon got through my drill, and then set 
to work boating and fishing vigorously. I also 
became acquainted with all the neighbouring 
families, who were extremely hospitable and 

From Athlone we marched to Enniskillen, 
where we received orders to hold ourselves in 
readiness to embark for Canada, and Colonel 
Wetherall kindly selected me to go with the 

I was given a short leave of absence to go 
and wish my friends good-bye, so I went to Glen 
Dye, where my mother and sister Catherine 
were staying with Sir James Carnegie and my 
sister Lady Carnegie at their shooting-box. 
There was a large party staying there for the 
grouse-shooting. The gentlemen were all very 
kind to me, and lent me their keepers and dogs. 



and I had two or three good days' shooting. 
We then made a grand march on our hill-ponies 
down to Kinnaird Castle. From Kinnaird I 
travelled post with my mother ard sister to the 
south of England, paying several visits on our 
way. I then went to see my brother at Hemp- 


sted Court, and on to Bristol, intending to 
return to my regiment in the regular passenger 
steamer by Dublin. Arri' ing at the quay, 
what was my dismay on hearing the steamer 
had been taken off the line to carry troops for 
the Government. However, I had one day to 
spare, and I determined to cross to Waterford 
in a small steamer that was leaving Bristol that 





i,-^' I 

afternoon. Unfortunately a heavy gale came 
on, and we did not get across till the second 
day. I had then to go to Dublin by stage- 
coach, and on to Enniskillen by the same sort of 
conveyance. The result was I arrived to join 
my regiment a few hours after the expiration 
of my leave of absence. 

Colonel Wetherall saw at once that it was 
not my fault ; but, according to the regulations 
then existing, I had to be put under arrest and 
go through the form of petitioning the king 
for my release. The Colonel was very kind 
about it, and told me I might go where I liked 
till the reply came. Accordingly I went off to 
Ballyshannon to fish, and lived with the officers 
of our detachment there. At the end of the 
month I was dining at their mess, when some- 
body alluded to its being muster -day. It 
suddenly struck me that I was again absent 
without leave. I jumped up from table, ran 
out, got a tandem outside (jaunting car), and 
started off for Enniskillen, telling the man to 
drive as if the devil was after him ; and he did, 
but I arrived in barracks just after the clock 
had struck twelve midnight. I rushed to the 



paymaster's room to report myself, but I was 
too late. Visions of a prolonged arrest and a 
second petition to the king rose in my mind, till 
he told me he had hit on a plan of saving me. 
He had reported me "Present at Ballyshannon." 
What a relief to my mind. Soon after a letter 
came to say His Majesty was quite satisfied 
with my explanation, and I was released from 

a »T^ * 6*>«4£..^-*' ■ 



Our transport — Voyage — A curious meeting at sea — The grog- 
tub — Falls of Montmorency— A squall — Quebec — Lord 
Gosford— Sir John Colbornc — Falls of Niagara — Theatri- 
cals — Winter picnics. 

In due course of time our transport, The 
Maitland, an old teak -built East Indiaman, 
arrived in the cove of Cork ; she had been 
fitted up experimentally to see if it were 
possible to cram a whole battalion into a ship 
of her class. In order to effect this, the 
ordinary baggage -hold had been converted 
into an orlop-deck for troops. 

We had to lay in our own provisions and 
stores, and to cater and cook for ourselves ; 
this was no easy task, as we had no stowage 
whatc er. We filled every nook in the cuddy, 
piled up things under the mess -table, in the 
deep stern-ports, and in every corner we could 
find. When the troops embarked, we found 

\ I i 



there was not standing - room for the men, 
women, and children on all the decks, including 
the poop, orlop-deck, and the officers' cuddy. 
Some of the men had actually to stand on the 
broad old-fashioned channels or chains outside 
the ship. I and another officer were told off to 
swing in cots over the mess-table ! In addition 
to this, there were three berths at each end of 
the cuddy which was athwart ships. 

Colonel Wetherall, seeing the plight we 
were in, sent up at once to beg the General 
commanding the Cork district to come down 
and inspect the ship. When he came on 
board, he turned to our Colonel and said, 
" Well, Colonel, have you got all your men 
on board ? " " Yes, sir," he replied with the 
most courteous smile, "they are all on board." 
" Well, send these men below, I wish to see 
the deck." " I am sorry to say, sir, the main- 
deck and orlop - deck are both crowded, 
there is not room for another man below." 

" Oh, nonsense, Colonel ! Here Captain ," 

calling to his aide-de-camp, "go down and see 
what room there is below." Down he went, 
but before two minutes were over he was 



il , * 



carried up again by some of the men, having 
fainted dead away from the heat and stench. 
The General then got up on to the poop, which 
was crowded with women and children. Going 
up the ladder he caught sight of the men 
drawn up on the chains outside the ship, on 
which he exclaimed, " Come, Colonel, this 
will never do ! You have no business to let 
the men go out there!" "I am very sorry, 
sir," he replied most blandly, "but I have no 
other place for them, unless I put them in the 
tops." The case was too palpable, the Gene- 
ral immediately ordered the Quartermaster - 
General to take two officers, some women, and 
a hundred men off the ship ; even then we 
went to sea in an awfully crowded state. Our 
cuddy was so small that we were obliged to 
have three dinners, — one for the nurses and 
children, one for the ladies, and a third for 
ourselves. Two officers having gone ashore, 
I got one of the berths in the cuddy. 

Colonel Wetherall's arrangements on board 
were admirable, and we were fortunate enough 
to have no illness. 

Our captain was a very rough old fellow. 



The first evening we were at sea he came up 
on the poop, and, seeing poor Ensign Gore 
lying on the deck awfully sea-sick, went up to 
him, and by way of consolation said, " I say, 
youngster ! Don't you wish your mother kept 
a vinegar shop, and you were at home bottling 


•> " 

The Catherine Stewart Forbes, with a wing 
of the 85th Light Infantry on board, sailed 
out of Cork harbour in company with us ; but 
we saw nothing more of her till we got on 
to the banks, when one very foggy night we 
heard sentries challenging close astern of us. 
We remained quite quiet, and when they had 
challenged all round, one of our men shouted 
out, " No. I, and all's very well." Next morn- 
ing we were sailing alongside of one another. 
I and Lieutenant Humphries went on board 
their ship to dine, and two of their officers 
came and dined at our mess ; after our crowded 
decks their ship looked quite empty. That 
night we parted company, and never met 
again ; they were bound for Halifax. 

The grog, which was served out to the men 
daily, was mi.xed in a large tub kept for the 






purpose. The men had to pass along as their 
names were called, and drink it at the tub. 
When all had drunk, there was usually a good 
drop left, and the officer on duty was obliged 
to see it all thrown overboard. I observed 
that the men always threw it over the bulwark 
at exactly the same place near the poop. 
When I was next on duty I thought I should 
like to see where it went, so just as the men 
were lifting it up I walked up the steps 
leading to the poop ; from there I saw a young 
scoundrel of a sailor boy standing in the chains 
with a large bucket, and as the men poured the 
grog over he caught it, and afterwards retailed 
it to the soldiers. 

During the voyage Colonel Wetherall em- 
ployed me to make plans and drawings of every 
part of the transport to accompany his report, 
which was afterwards broucrht before Parliament 


and served me a good turn. 

It was a splendid day in August when we 
came in sight of Quebec. As we cleared the 
island of Orleans the view was most beautiful, 
with the Falls of Montmorency on our right, 
the fine expanse of open water in front of 



Beauport before us, the city of Quebec 
with its glittering tin roofs rising like a gem 
from the water, and the pretty point Levis on 
the left, looking quite like a fairy scene. 

When we arrived at Quebec, the General, 
Sir John Colborne, refused to allow the whole 


of the 79th Highlanders, the regiment we were 
to relieve, to be put on board The Maitland, 
but hired a second ship to take part of them, 
for which the authorities at home declined to 
pay, but they had to do so at last. Colonel 
Wetherall's report had a good effect ; troops 
were never sent out in such a disgraceful 
manner after that. 







We had been about five weeks on our 
voyage, having had fair weather and, generally 
speaking, light winds ; but one morning, on the 
banks, we were sailing in a thick fog with every- 
thing set — flying-jibs, royals, sky-sails, etc. The 
sea was quite calm, when suddenly a slight 
rustle was heard, and in a moment we were 
down on our beam ends rushing through the 
water in a heavy squall. There was a 
tremendous commotion, hallooing and letting 
go of halliards, crashing of spars, and splitting 
of sails. After a while we righted again 
and everything wps still, and we were left 
rolling about a miserable spectacle, our fore- 
topgallant -mast and flying jib-boom gone, a 
number of sails split, and the rest all nohow. 
The fog had cleared off, and we found a 
merchant barque close to us ; she had got 
through the squall without any damage. Half- 
way up the St. Lawrence we met her again ; 
she had been up to Quebec, and was on her 
way down. Her captain politely inquired where 
we were bound for; the rough reply was 
" Kamtschatka." He then reminded our skipper 
that he was in company with us when we 



carried away our topgallant -mast and jib- 
boom. We had no other adventures, and 
having landed at Quebec, marched up to the 

Quebec, to me, was a perfect paradise. The 
scenery was beautiful, the country round 
abounded with lakes and streams full of trout, 
and the people were most kind and hospit- 
able. At that time the Earl of Gosford was 
Governor, and he had associated with him Sir 
George Gipps and Sir Charles Grey, who con- 
stituted a commission. His lordship was very 
kind to me, and I often dined at Government 
House two or three times in the week. Sir 
John Colborne and Lady Colborne, to whom 
I had introductions, were also very kind 
to me. I knew many of the inhabitants — 
Chief- Justice Sewell, Judge Bowen, Monsieur 
Buchesney and his two charming daughters, 
the Burstalls, Prices, etc. My principal friends 
in my own regiment were Captain John 
Mayne, Ned Wetherall, Lieutenant Urquhart, 
Ormsby, our great theatrical manager, and 
Lord Charles Beauclerk, who was my fishing 
companion. In the 66th Regiment I also 







had several friends — Lord Cochrane, Grattan, 
Biscoe, and Johnny Vivian, etc. 

In September I got a short leave of absence, 
and went up to see the Falls of Niagara, 
passing through Montreal, Kingston, and 
Toronto. I returned by the United States side 


of Lake Ontario through Buffalo, Rochester, 
Oswego, Sackets Harbour, and Ogdensburg. 
Since that time the " Table Rock " has fallen 
down, and the shape of the falls has very 
much altered. 

I went to Buffalo with an American 
gentleman, who was very kind and civil to 
me. He introduced me to several people, 



amongst others to the gentleman who kept 
the great hotel — always a most useful intro- 
duction in the United States. (Jn my journey 
down through that part of the State of 
New York I observed one man's name on 
all the stage-coaches, most of the public - 
houses, — in fact, on pretty nearly everything. 
I was told the name was that of a gentleman 
who had made an enormous fortune and 
owned almost everything in that part of the 
country. He was very popular, as he had not 
only made his own colossal fortune, but had 
enabled many others to make money, and had 
started a great deal of good business in the 

Not long afterwards I heard he was to be 
tried for forgery. It turned out that he had 
commenced all his work on forged bills, 
but having been successful he had bought 
them all up but one, and that one was 
the only evidence against him. It was only 
for a small sum, but he could not get hold of 
it. The interest of the whole country was 
exerted on his behalf, but the court of justice 
was inexorable ; the unfortunate man was con- 





• 1 





victed on the evidence of that one bill, and 
sentenced accordingly. 

After my return to Quebec, we got up 
some good theatricals. I wa'j a smooth-faced 
boy thvjn, so I was enlisted for the ladies' 
parts, and got great applause for my " Caroline 
Dorma " in The Heir-ai-Laiu, and for my 
" Ravina " in the Miller and his Men. 

Our tableaux vivants, too, were very 
successful, especially that of the death of 
Wolfe, which created great interest, being so 
near the spot where it occurred. It was taken 
from the celebrated picture by West. Lord 
Charles Beauclerk was Wolfe, Johnny Vivian 
the Indian chief (Ticcmpsey), Colonel Wetherall 
the doctor, Humphries the tall grenadier, Ned 
Wetherall the officer with the colour. 

I made several trips to the Jacques Cartier, 
a charming little salmon-river, and there made 
acquaintance with Dr. Henry, a well-known 
fisherman, who gave me some valuable lessons 
in salmon fishinpf and tvinq- ihes. 

In the winter 1 got a sleigh and a pair of 
horses, and learnt to drive tandem (we had 
a very good driving club). 




That year there was a "smooth pont," 
which means that the ice opposite Quebec 
"took" or froze quite smooth, which is a very 
rare occurrence ; usually it is packed up in 
masses of rough blocks of ice. I tr-'de an 
ice-boat to sail on it, which went at a fearful 
pace and beat to windward beautifully, but 
required careful management. Once or twice, 
going about too quickly, 1 sent my passengers 
flying all across the river. 

Winter picnics were much the fashion. We 
used to drive out in our sleigh^;, t^-'ch taking a 
lady — commonly called a muffin — and a share 
of the dinner. A band was also sent out, and 
there were several good t-ooms in habitants' 
houses that were used for these parties. After 
dinner we danced for several hours, then drove 
home together on the snc>w roads, all in a long 
string of sle'ghi:, by moonlight, which was often 
nearly as light as day. These drives were most 
charming ; and on a still night to hear all the 
sleigh - bells jingimg as the horses trotted 
merrily along was most fascinating, to say 
nothing of the young lady who was rolled up 
in the warm fur robes by your side ! 




n, I 

' 1 

- 1 

I i 

i« 1 

^^ 1 





Death of William IV. — Accession of Oi^'^e" Victoria — Com- 
mencement of Canadian Rebellion - Rebels drilling — - 
Meets of foxhounds and six counties — Duels — Expedi- 
tion to St. Charles and St. Denis. 

The following year (1837) we were ordered 
up to Montreal and fjuartered in the Quebec 
Gate Barracks. Our mess -house was at 
first in Francois Xavier Street, afterwards 
in Dalhousie Square, next to the 32nd 
Light Infantry mess. in the month of July 
we heard of the death of King William IV. 
and the accession of Queen V^ictoria, and had 
a grand parade on the Champ de Mars to 
swear allegiance to her gracious Majesty. 

Duiing this year the measures adopted 
by our Government created much discontent 
amongst the F"rench Canadians in Lower 
Canada, and they commenced to arm and 
organise their population in preparation for 






open rebellion ; at the same time the British 
troops were left perfectly unsupported by their 
own authorities. 

The rebels drilled on our parade grounds, 
and complained if they were interfered with. 
I remember one day walking up to the old 
racecourse with several officers of the 32nd 
Regiment to see a battalion of Canadians drill. 
One of my friends remarked that they were 
nothing but children and boys, on which a 
gentleman, who was standing near, came up 
and accosted him, saying, "Sir, you have 
insulted my comrades ; I demand satisfaction." 
"Certainly," replied my friend, handing his 
card. He was Captain Broadley, a well-known 
and very celebrated shot ; we heard no more of 
the patriot. 

A little later on, Lieutenant Ormsby of the 
Royals was going his rounds one night on 
garrison duty, when the sentry of the com- 
missariat office complained to him that two 
gentlemen, who were still standing near, had 
been trying to force him jff his post and take 
his musket from him. Ormsby replied in an 
audible voice, 'If the gentlemen come near 










you again you have your bayonet, use it, and 
I'll take the consequences." One of the 
Canadians immediately stepped up and said 
he held him responsible for an insult offered 
to him in the streets ; and so unsupported were 
the military at the time that he felt himself 
obliged to accept the challenge and exchange 
shots with the patriot. Captain Mayne of the 
Royals was his second. We had a meeting of 
our officers before they went out, and we directed 
Mayne to take Ormsby off the ground after the 
first shot whatever happened, and refer their 
opponents to us. They met and fired without 
effect ; Mayne then did as he was instructed, 
the opposing second intimating that he should 
hold him personally responsible. 

Our mess-room at that time was in a narrow 
street, and the rebel orderly-room or office was 
opposite to it. In the afternoon the Canadians 
sent over a message to know what Mayne 
intended to do ; the officers replied that they 
had determined that no other officer was to 
accept a challenge, and that a reference would 
be made to the military authorities. The 
whole affair was reported to Sir John Colborne, 



who, of course, disapproved of the duel, but 
allowed there was much to be said on our side. 
We were not troubled any more after that. 

We had a pack of foxhounds at Montreal, 
and we often went across to the other side of 
the river to hunt. Our favourite meet was on 
board the horse ferry-boat that crossed below 
the city to Longueil. One day we met as 
usual and found some Canadian gentlemen on 
board. We learned that they were going over 
to the great meeting of the six counties at St. 
Charles. Monsieur Papineau, the leader of the 
rebellion, was with them, and it so happened 
that the well-known pugilist, Deaf Bourke, who 
was making a professional tour in America, was 
with us. When he heard who was on board, 
we had the greatest difficulty in preventing 
him going up on the raised deck, where the 
Canadians were sitting, to give the rebel a 
sound thrashing, as he said he was sure that 
would settle all the disturbances. 

When we landed on the other side we found 
an escort of very young lads, mounted on 
ponies and armed with long guns. We forth- 
with mounted our hunters and charged them, 

1 fU 

'I i 

ij ■ 


!^ i 


f : 







hunting-whips in hand, on which they fled, 
scampering away down to the village. Papineau 
stole off by another road. 

On the 14th October 1837 there was a great 
meeting of the loyal party in Montreal, and 
disturbances were expected. Th ■ troops were 
kept in barracks ready to turn out ; everything, 
however, went off quietly until late in the 
afternoon. I heard that Mr. Johnston, Mr. 
Campbell Sweeny, Mr. M'Cord, and others 
had spoken very well and decidedly on the 

After the meeting was over the Loyalists 
and Canadians happened to come into collision 
and a great fight ensued. The alarm was 
sounded and the troops were soon under arms. 
We took possession of the ends of Notre- Dame 
Street and St. Paul Street, and guarded all the 
intermediate avenues to them, and also held 
the Champ de Mars with a battery of Royal 
Artillery. The Loyalists, who Vvere from that 
time called the '* Axe-handle Guards," from the 
weapon they fought with, continued to fight 
through the suburbs all that evening and far 

into the night. 






Next morning I was sent for by Sir John 
Colborne and ordered off to Toronto with de- 
spatches to Sir Francis Bond, Head Governor 
of the Upper Province, asking him for more 
troops if he could spare them. Sir Francis 
repHed he could spare all the troops from 
Upper Canada, with the exception of the 
detachment at Bytown; and the 24th Regiment 
was at once sent down. These despatches 
were much spoken of afterwards. 

On my return from Toronto, Colonel Gore, 
the Deputy Quartermaster -General, who had 
seen my plans and drawings of The Mailland, 
selected me to serve on his staff. 

We had no Field-Artillery, but there were 
both officers and men of the Garrison Artillery 
in the country, and guns and harness in store. 
Our General authorised horses to be bought, 
and a very respectable field-battery was soon 
organised and equipped. 

Towards the end of October a party of 
eighteen of the Montreal Volunteer Cavalry 
were sent to St. John's to arrest some suspected 
persons and bring them back to Montreal. I 
was sent down to the horse ferry at Hochelaga 


' t I 





with a party of regular troops to bring them 
across the St. Lawrence and escort them to 
the prison. We waited a long time expecting 
them, and at length we got a report that firing 
had been heard in the distance, and then the 
Cavalry came straggling in one by one, several 
of them wounded ; last of all came a fine plucky 
little fellow who had been a troop Sergeant- 
Major in the 7th Hussars — I think his name 
was Sharp. Although he was badly wounded 
he had remained behind to cover the retreat 
of his party. He told me they had been 
attacked from behind the fences near Chambly 
by two or three hundred men armed with long 
guns, and that their prisoners had been rescued 
from them. 

Not long after this it was deemed expedient 
to send a military force to endeavour to arrest 
certain rebel leaders who had established them- 
selves on the line of the Richelieu river. For 
this purpose a combined movement was planned 
in the following manner : — 

Lieutenant-Colonel Wetherall, with six com- 
panies of Infantry and two light six-pounder 
field-guns, was to cross the Richelieu at 



Chambly and move, by night, down the right 
bank of the river on St. Charles, a distance 
of about 19 miles; Lieutenant-Colonel Hughes 
of the 24th Regiment, with five companies and 
a twelve-pounder Howitzer, was to move from 
Sorel up the right bank of the river on St. 
Denis, which was not supposed to be strongly 
held, a distance of about 2 1 miles, also by 
night ; the two forces to appear simultaneously 
before their respective destinations. Colonel 
Hughes was then to push on to St. Charles. 
Colonel the Hon. Charles Gore was named 
to take command of the whole expedition, 
but he was to accompany Lieutenant-Colonel 
Hughes's force. I went with him. 

At ten o'clock on the night of the 26th 
November the troops of Colonel Hughes's 
column turned out in the barrack square at 
Sorel ; the rain was pouring down in torrents, 
and the night was as dark as pitch. We were 
to move by a back road, called the Pot-au- 
Beurre road, in order to avoid passing through 
St. Ours, which was held by the rebels. 
I got a lantern, fastened it to the top of a 
pole, and had it carried in front of the column ; 






but what with horses and men sinking in the 
mud, harness breaking, wading through water, 
and winding through woods, the little force 
soon got separated, those In rear lost sight of 
the light, and great delays and difficulties 
were experienced. Towards morning the rain 
changed into snow and it became very cold, 
and daybreak found the unfortunate column 
still floundering in the half-frozen mud 4 miles 
from St. Denis. 

It soon became evident that the rebels were 
on the alert ; the church bells were heard in 
the distance ringing the alarm, and parties of 
skirmishers appeared on our left flank. As the 
column approached nearer to St. Denis we 
found all the bridges broken up. Without 
much delay I managed to reconstruct them 
strong enough to bear the Howitzer, and the 
column continued to advance, Captain Mark- 
ham leading. On reaching the outskirts of 
the village the rebels opened a brisk fire on 
us. Markham pushed on, taking house after 
house, until his progress was arrested by a 
stockade across the road and a large, fortified 
brick-house well flanked on all sides. 





Captain Crompton with a company of the 
66th, and Captain Maitland with a company 
of the 24th, were then brought up and the 
Howitzer came into action. The engagement 
was kept up until a late hour in the afternoon ; 
the enemy had a very strong position and 
appeared to increase in numbers. Captain 
Markham succeeding in taking one of the 
flanking - houses, but in doing so he was 
severely wounded, receiving two balls in the 
neck and a wound across the knee. Several 
of his men also were hit. At length, as the 
men had had nothing to eat since the previous 
day and the ammunition had fallen short, 
Colonel Gore deemed it necessary to withdraw 
his force. We had no ambulance or transport 
of any kind, so we were obliged to leave our 
wounded behind ; there were seventeen of them, 
their wounds had been dressed and they were 
put in beds in one house (six men had been 
killed). Markham's men were first withdrawn 
from the flanking- house ; they brought away 
their favourite captain with them under a 
heavy fire from the fortified house. On his 
way back he was again shot through the calf 




I M 










1.0 :f:«- I 








U III 1.6 












WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 

(716) 872-4503 






of the leg, and one of the men, a corporal, 
carrying him was wounded in the foot. The 
other bearer was a sergeant. They had to 
come across a rough ploughed-field frozen hard. 
As soon as they got near the road we ran out 
and lifted them over the fence ; we then placed 
poor Markham in the only cart which remained 
with the column and sent him to the rear. 

We retreated for a short distance along the 
road we had advanced by, and then crossed 
over a bridge to the left in order to march 
by the front road. Lieutentant-Colonel Hughes, 
conducting the rear-guard with great coolness 
and determination, soon stopped the rebels, who 
were following us. 

Night came on, and it continued to freeze 
very hard. After we had crossed the bridge 
the gun-horses completely broke down. Lieu- 
tenant Newcoman, R.A., assisted by Colonel 
Hughes's rear-guard, did everything in their 
power to save the Howitzer. I got Crompton's 
horse and put it in with my own as leaders, 
doing driver myself. We then succeeded in 
moving the gun a short distance, but it stuck 
fast again and got frozen firm into the ground. 



At last the ammunition that remained was 
thrown into the river, and the Howitzer was 
spiked and abandoned. 

We continued to retreat during the night, 
many of the men nearly barefooted, for the 
Canadian moccasins, which they had been 
given, were soon cut through by the frozen 
earth and ice. 

Towards morning the column passed through 
St. Ours. I was riding my lame horse (he 
had been slightly wounded) by the side of 
Lieutenant Inglis,^ 32nd Regiment. All the 
houses were lighted up and we expected to be 
attacked every moment ; fortunately, however, 
we got through unmolested. On reaching a 
large farmhouse beyond the village Colonel 
Gore ordered a halt, and the men were glad 
to lie down in the barns half dead with hunger 
and fatigue. I managed to find the farmer's 
stock of potatoes, and got a sufficient number 
boiled to give each man three or four before 
the march was resumed. 

Next morning, soon after leaving the farm- 

' Afterwards Sir John Inglis, celebrated for his mo!»t 
gallant defence of Lucknow. 










house, we met a reinforcement of two guns and 
a small escort of Infantry that had been sent 
to our assistance. There was a long consulta- 
tion as to whether we should advance again or 
not, but the men, without shoes and food and 
having very little ammunition, were evidently 
unfit for a renewed effort, so it was decided to 
return to Sorel, refit and reorganise, and then 
go forward with a better chance of success. 

Colonel Gore went up to Montreal in the 
steamer Varenne, and I went with him. He 
heard from Sir John Colborne that Colonel 
Wetherall's column had only succeeded in 
getting to St. Hilaire, about half-way to St. 
Charles, the first day, which accounted for the 
force opposed to us increasing towards the end 
of the action at St. Denis ; he there halted and 
sent back for reinforcements and provisions. 
Finally he advanced, and took St. Charles 

There is nothing like success ; Colonel 
Wetherall was lauded up to the sky, while my 
poor master, Colonel Gore, was condemned. 
At the same time, had he halted or turned 
back during our advance, and had Colonel 



Wetherall been defeated at St. Charles in 
consequence of our not having arrived at St. 
Denis, what would have been said then ? 

My name was mentioned in despatches, 
which appeared in the London Gaze tie of 
Tuesday 26th December 1837. 

Montreal was put into a state of defence, 
and was surrounded by a cordon of stockades 
and defences ; only three or four gates were 
left open, and guards were placed at each of 


Second expedition to St. Denis — Monsieur I'apincau — St. 
Eustache — A hair's-breadth escape. 

On his return to Sorel I accompanied Colonel 
Gore, who had obtained all he required at 
Montreal, and we again advanced on St. Denis 
with eight companies of Infantry and two guns. 

The first day we marched to St. Ours, and 
there halted for the night ; on the following 
day we advanced to St. Denis. On our arrival 
there we found that the rebels had made con- 
siderable preparations to resist our attack, and 
had thrown up some very fair works, but had, 
at the last moment, abandoned them and dis- 
persed. We recovered our Howitzer. 

Colonel Gore then marched on with a part 
of his force to St. Charles, leaving the remainder 
at St. Denis. 

Previous to the departure of the first expedi- 




tion, Lieutenant Weir of the 32nd Regiment 
had been sent on by road to get everything 
prepared at Sorel for the advance; but, in conse- 
quence of the heavy rains, the roads were so bad 
that he did not arrive until after we had started 
on our night march. Poinding we had gone on, 
he endeavoured to catch us up by driving after 
us in a caleche. Knowing the country, he 
insisted on the driver taking the front road, 
not believing we had marched by the Pot-au- 
Beurre road ; consequently very early in the 
morning, having passed us, he arrived at the 
stockade at St. Denis, and, being stopped by 
the rebel sentry, asked where the troops were. 
That was the first intimation they had of our 
advance ; he was at once made prisoner. 

When the action commenced, Nelson, the 
rebel commander, sent him to the rear for 
better safety. He was tied hand and foot, 
put into a cart, and taken away under escort. 
Going through the village he was brutally 
murdered by the escort. While we were away 
at St. Charles, Lieutenant Griffin of the 32nd 
Regiment volunteered to search for his body. 

We arrived at St. Charles in the afternoon. 







and intelligence having been brought in that 
Monsieur Papineau, the leader of the rebellion, 

was at the house of Madame , at St. 

Hyacinthe, Colonel Gore instructed me to go 
on with a party of soldiers in sleighs as soon as 
it was dark and endeavour to arrest him. All 
arrangements were most carefully made, the 
bells taken off the horses, and the men ordered 
to keep perfect silence, etc. 

At the appointed hour we started, I leading . 
with a good guide by my side. About midnight 
we drew up in front of a large house, with an 
extensive farmyard and numerous barns and 
out-buildings. I instantly ran round with some 
men in one direction, sending a sergeant in 
the other, and we posted a chain of sentries all 
round the premises meeting at the back. I 
then placed men to watch the out-buildings, 
barns, stables, etc. 

Having done this I went to the house and 

knocked. Madame , a charming old 

lady, very nicely dressed, appeared, and re- 
ceived me with great civility, and showed me 
all over the house. I observed she was 
particularly anxious that I should not miss a 



single hole or corner ; she opened every cup- 
board, and then took me down to the cellars, 
where there was a splendid store of vegetables 
and fruit for the winter. It was evident to 
me that her object was to gain time, but of 
course she did not know that I had a com- 
plete chain of sentries all round the place, 
and that every building was watched. I 
failed to find my man, but felt certain he 
was not far off. 

Many years after I happened to meet 
Monsieur Papineau at a party at Montreal 
given by Lord Monck, the Governor-General. 
I was introduced to him, and found him 
a charming old gentleman. He said, " I 
hear you were the officer who came 'to call 

on me' at Madame s in 1837. You 

little knew how nearly you took me. Do 
you remember a deep ditch at the back of 
the farmyard running away into the fields .'* " 
I told him I remembered it well, for I had 
some difficulty in getting across it. " Well," 
said he, "you did your work admirably, for 
though we were on the watch, I had only just 
time to run away down that wet ditch before 




your sentries met. I remained in a small bit 
of bush not far off till daylii^ht." 

From St. Hyacinthe I returned to St. 
Charles, and next day we all went back to 
St. Denis. Lieutenant Griffin reported that 
he had discovered the body of poor Jock Weir 
under a heap of stones ; a little girl had shown 
him where it was, and had told him all about 
the murder. Poor fellow, he was hacked about 
the head apparently with an axe, and some of 
his fingers were split ; he appeared to have 
endeavoured to save his head with his hands, 
which were tied together. We carried his 
body back to Montreal, and it was buried with 
full military honours — a most impressive cere- 
mony — all the newly-raised volunteer battalions 
were in the procession as well as the line 

After these expeditions I was appointed 
Deputy Assistant Quartermaster-General. 

As soon as Sir John Colborne had realised 
the critical state of the Provinces, he had written 
to Halifax and England for more troops. One 
battalion, the 83rd, had already been sent up 
to Quebec by the river in a man-of-war steamer 




at the request of Lord Gosford. Later on the 
43rd Light Infantry, the 85th Light Infantry, 
and 34th Regiment were sent up by the 
Portage or Temisquata road, the navigation of 
the St. Lawrence being closed for the winter. 
What with the reinforcements that had 


arrived and the volunteer battalions which had 
been organised, we began to feel a little more 
confident in our power, and Sir John Colborne 
determined to advance on St. Eustache, which 
was said to be held by a considerable number 
of rebels. The force destined for this expedi- 
tion consisted of a F'ield- Battery, Royal Artillery 
(four guns and two Howitzers), a Rocket-Troop, 
a detachment of Montreal Volunteer Cavalry, 
the I St or Royal Regiment, the 32nd Light 
Infantry, 83rd Regiment, and three companies 
of Montreal Volunteers. The Infantry was 
divided into two brigades, the first under 
Colonel Maitland, the second under Colonel 

On Wednesday 13th December 1837 we 
marched to St. Martini. I was sent on to tell 
off the respective quarters in the village, and 
Sir John Colborne with his staff and about 




eighty of the Montreal Cavalry followed later 
in the day. The Field- Battery, Rocket-Troop, 
and all the transport waggons were on runners, 
that is on sleigh carriages, the snow being 

The following morning, instead of moving 
on by the direct road to St. Eustache, we 
were ordered to march straight to the Ottawa 
River, a distance of about 6 miles, and cross 
it on the ice, one company of volunteers, 
Captain Globinski's, marching by the direct 
road. The ice on the Ottawa had only 
frozen across the day before. As officer of 
the Quartermaster-General's department, I was 
ordered to take charge of the crossing of 
the whole column — no easy task, the ice being 
very thin and uncertain. Every precaution 
had to be taken ; the men were extended and 
made to break step, the horses were led over 
one by one, and the guns and waggons were 
dragged across by long ropes, the road being 
frequently changed. I got everything safe 
over, till firing was heard in front ; an old 
major of Artillery then became excited, and 
insisted on taking a tumbril across with its 



horses in and drivers riding. The ice began 
to crack, the horses began to trot, and in the 
whole thing went. The fussy major galloped 
away to the front, leaving me to get his waggon 
and horses out of the water the best way I 
could. A first-rate fellow of the commissariat 
department came to my assistance with some 
ropes, and we managed to save the horses, get 
the waggon out, and send it up into action, 
though the river was so deep that we had to 
lie down on the ice and reach the whole length 
of our arms into the water in order to fasten 
ropes to the points of the shafts. I was told 
afterwards that the ammunition out of the 
boxes was fired that day in action ; if so, it 
speaks well for the waterproof boxes from 

When approaching the village, one brigade 
with the Field- Battery continued to advance 
on the road running parallel to the river ; the 
other brigade turned off to the right and went 
across to the end of the street leading down 
the centre of the village, at right angles to the 

Lines of skirmishers from the village met 






the riverside brigade and opened fire on them, 
but soon retired. The Field - Battery then 
opened fire on the church and stone buildings 
around it, but there was no reply ; so Sir John 
Colborne, seeing that the houses were empty 
and that everything was quiet, thought the 
rebels had retired and abandoned the place. 
He therefore sent Brigade- Major Dickson and 
his aide-de-camp down the main street, facing 
the great stone church, with orders to bring 
round the other brigade into the village. 
As soon as they got down near the church 
a rattling fire was opened on them, and they 
narrowly escaped with their lives ; it was now 
evident that there was yet to be a fight. 

One of the Howitzers was brought round 
into the main btreet, and an attempt was made 
to batter in the big doors of the church, but 
this failed. Ned Wetherall of the Royals 
then manivged to creep round behind the 
houses, and ^jet into a large stone house that 
was at right angles to the front of the church 
and to windward of it ; he there upset the 
burning stove on the fioor, and pulled every 
inflammable thing he could find over it. In 




a few minutes the whole place was on fire, 
and volumes o'l. smoke mantled the front of 
the church. 

Colonel Wetherall took advantage of this 
and advanced his reij^iment under cover of the 
smoke at the double down the street. I jumped 
off my horse and went on with them. We got 
round to the back of the church and found a 
small door leading into the sacristy, which we 
battered in, and Ormsby and I rushed in 
followed by some of our men. We then turned 
to our left and went into the main body of the 
church, which appeared quite dark, the windows 
being barricaded ; here the rebels began firing 
down on our heads. We could not get up to 
them for the staircases were broken down, so 
Ormsby lighted a fire behind the altar and got 
his men out. 

The firing from the church windows then 
ceased, and the rebels began running out from 
some low windows apparently of a crypt or 
cellar. Our men formed up on one side of the 
church, and the 32nd and 83rd on the other. 
Some of the rebels ran out and fired at the 
troops, then threw down their arms and begged 




;(•■ i\ 




for quarter. Our officers tried to save the 
Canadians, but the men shouted " Remember 
Jock Weir," and numbers of these poor deluded 
fellows were shot down. 

A rather amusing incident happened during 
the fight. I happened to ride up from the ice, 
to report to the General that all the troops 
were safe over, just as he ordered the Rocket- 
Troop to come into action and fire into the 
church a heavy rocket, a venerable survivor of 
the Peninsular War. The Ordnance Depart- 
ment imagined, I believe, that rockets would 
improve like port wine by keeping ; the result 
was that, when it was fired, instead of rising it 
fell and, not clearing a wooden fence in front 
of the troop, broke its long tail short off. 
The huge head went whirling and twirling, 
whizzing and fizzing, all over a ploughed 
field in the most frightful manner. There 
was a general stampede, — Headquarter Staff, 
Rocket - Troop, and all took flight. \ 
volunteer was literally chased round the field 
by the horrible thing ; at last he fell down 
between the furrows ; it passed over him and 
fizzed itself out with a final bang. Shortly 



after, having taken sundry glances right and 
left to see if all was safe, the man jumped up, 
ran off, and, I am told, never stopped till he got 
safe back to Montreal. 

The following day Sir John Colborne 
marched on to St. Benoit, where we were met 
by a splendid brigade of the Glengarry High- 
landers, but as there was no further resistance 
the force returned to Montreal. 

After this there were many alarms and 
some expeditions to make arrests, but no more 
serious fighting that winter with the French 
Canadians, though the American sympathisers 
and filibusters continued to give trouble. 

Montreal, between the expeditions, was very 
gay, and there were plenty of balls and parties. 

The troops continued to arrive from 
Halifax by the Portage road. In December 
the disturbances extended to Upper Canada, 
and Sir Francis Head narrowly escaped being 
made prisoner in his own capital. Later on 
he was attacked by the sympathisers, but 
repulsed them. 

In the early spring of this year (1838) I 
had a very narrow escape. I had been to 








Hemmingford on duty, and when returning to 
Montreal I heard that all the winter roads 
across the ice were broken up, the only possible 
crossing I could hear of being at the back of 
Nun's Island. I drove there, and found two 
able-bodied habitants willing to put me across. 
I walked over a very broad bordage of ice to their 
canoe, and saw that in front of me the river was 
clear of fixed ice to the island, but the stream 
was very rapid and full of floating fields of ice ; 
to my left was the Great Lachine rapid roaring 
down in all its majesty. Looking to my right 
down the stream I could see that the river 
divided into two channels, the nearer becoming 
a wild rushing rapid and then disappearing be- 
neath the ice, while the farther one flowed away 
more tranquilly round the lower end of Nun's 
Island. Between the two there was a mass of 
ice terminating at the upper end in a high cape 
that projected up stream and had been worn to 
quite a sharp edge by the action of the water. 
From this cape there ran a high, perpendicular 
cliff to the chasm where the water rushed under 
the ice. Our object was to paddle quickly 
across the rapid water and gain the more quiet 




water on the opposite side, well above the ice- 
cape, kn' ving that to be drawn into the rapid 
channel on the near side of it would be certain 
death. We dragged the canoe up the ice to 
give us a little more distance from danger, and 
then pushed off, one of my two men astern 
guiding and paddling, the other kneeling in front 
paddling hard, I sitting on the bottom in the 
centre. All went well to the middle of the rapid 
water, when a large low field of ice, partly sunk 
under water, struck the canoe and went under 
ler like a wedge. It lifted us up nearly high 
and dry, and away we went whirling round and 
round on the field of ice, drifting to destruction. 
One of the Canadians fell on his knees and 
began to pray, the other sat motionless as if 
petrified. I sprang up, seized a spare paddle, 
dealt one a wipe over the head with it and 
shouted to the other; this brought them to their 
senses, and we set to work to launch our canoe 
off the ice. Once more we were free, but had 
lost a lot of distance. We all three set to work 
to paddle literally for our lives. Our canoe 
flew through the water, but the stream became 
more and more rapid as we drifted nearer and 


, ; 


i I 

( i 



nearer to danger, and we knew too well if we 
were carried down below the ice-cape we were 
lost. At last a desperate effort forced the 
canoe across the end of the cape. She struck 
heavily about midships against the sharp edge. 
Balancing between life and death, I grasped the 
' slippery ice with my hands and called to the 
man in the stern to come and help me haul 
ahead, while the other continued to paddle. It 
was a moment of awful suspense. At first the 
canoe seemed to hang back ; we renewed our 
efforts, and at length felt that she was gradually 
sliding forwards. We then saw her bow turning 
gradually, and she swung round and floated 
down the quiet channel — we were saved ! 



Down to Quebec — Arrival of (luards — Lord Durham — Sym- 
pathisers — Invasion of Canada — ( iuards' campaign- Poor 
Jack Saville — A sad story — MiHtary survey — Aremarkable 

Later on in the spring the Quartermaster- 
General went down to Quebec, and I accom- 
panied him. One of my duties was to board 
all ships arriving with troops, and send the corps 
on up the country or land them at Quebec. 

The ice-bridge across the St. Lawrence in 
front of Quebec had taken that year, and was 
somewhat late in breaking up. On the morn- 
ing of 9th May I was watching it from the 
Citadel at the turn of the tide, when I perceived 
symptoms of a break ; a few minutes later the 
whole thing broke up and floated down the 
river. The ice had not long gone out of sight 
when I saw a sail appear in the distance, and 
up went a flag at our signal-station announcing 






the arrival of a troopship, then another went 
up announcing the approach of a frigate, then 
another for a line-of-battle ship, and another 
for a transport. They sailed up and anchored 
all together — a beautiful sight. The Edinlmrgh, 
the Inconstant, the Apollo, and the Atlioll, with 
a brigade of Guards on board, under the com- 
mand of General Sir James Macdonell. It 
consisted of the 2nd Battalion Grenadier 
Guards in the Apollo and Inconstant, and the 
2nd Battalion Coldstream Guards in the Edin- 
dui'o^k and At/ioll. They were landed next day, 
and quartered in the Citadel and Jesuit Barracks. 
On the 28th May Lord Durham arrived in 
H.M.S. Hastings, as Governor-General, with 
extraordinary powers. The Houses of Parlia- 
ment at Quebec had been fitted up for his re- 
ception, regardless of expense, and he lived 
there for some months in great pomp and 
splendour. At about the same time a number 
of ships arrived, and we had a fine ffeet at 
Quebec. The Cormvallis (with Admiral Sir 
C. Paget on board), the Hastings, Malabar, 
Edinburgh, Hercules, Pique, Inconstant, Andro- 
mache, Vestal, Pearl, and the Medea steamer. 



The Queen's birthday was celebrated at 
Quebec that year in a novel and very effective 
manner. The troops were drawn up all round 
the parapets of the Citadel after dark, and fired 
a ** feu de joie." The Artillery fired a royal 
salute, and the ships saluted and manned yards, 
each bluejacket with a blue light in his hand. 
It was a brilliant sight. 

Lord Durham's entertainments at what was 
then called "The Castle" were splendid. He 
first introduced the " Russian " style of dinner. 
All the dishes were handed round. Nothing 
but flowers and fruit and ornaments were on 
the table, and the cloth was not removed for 
dessert. At the end of the dinner, his lord- 
ship rose and took his lady back to the draw- 
ing-room ; all the other gentlemen followed 
with their ladies, nobody remaining behind. 

On the 23rd April, St. George's Day, the 
Siritis and Great Western steamships arrived 
at New York, the first that had ever crossed 
the Atlantic under steam. The Sirius claimed 
to have been the first, as she started from 
England four days before the Great Westeini. 

Several regiments arrived in Canada during 


V ' 



this year: the 7th Hussars, under Colonel 
White, usually calkd Jack White, an excellent 
horseman ; the King's Dragoon Guards, under 
Colonel Cathcart;' the 71st Highland Light 
Infantry, und^r the command of Colonel 
Charles Grey ; " the 73rd in August, and the 
93rd and 65th Regiments in October and 

In June I heard that the Governor-General 
had issued an ordinance decreeing that five of 
the most prominent rebels who had confessed 
their participation in high treason, and sixteen 
others who had absconded, amongst whom 
were my friends Monsieur Papineau, and 
Nelson, who commanded at St. Denis, should 
be transported to Bermuda. 

This ordinance was attacked in our Imperial 
Parliament by Lord Brougham and others, 
was ultimately declared to be illegal, and the 
prisoners were released. This led to the 
resignation of Lord Durham, late in the autumn, 
when the navigation had already closed. The 

^ Afterwards (General Sir Cieorge Cathcart, who fell at the 
Battle of Inkermann. 

- Afterwards Sir Charles Grey, Private Secretarj- to Her 
Majesty the Queen. 



Governor-General had consequently to make 
his exit from Canada by the Kennebec road 
in a stage-coach, which was furnished by the 
contractor, Mr. Hough. The wags said his 
lordship had gone away in a huff. 

Towards the autumn we obtained reliable 
information of a very extensive organisation of 
rebels and sympathisers in the Upper Province, 
and extending down to the frontier of the 
Lower Province. A determined lodgment was 
made by the sympathisers on Navy Island in 
the Niagara river, not far above the falls. This 
was broken up principally by the Upper Canada 
Militia. During the operations, Colonel M'Nab 
captured a steamer named the Caroline that 
was carrying provisions and munitions of war 
to the rebels, set her on fire, and sent her 
down over the falls. 

Another attempt was made near Prescott, 
where the sympathisers took up a strong 
position around a stone mill. Colonel Dundas, 
assisted by Captain Sandom, R.N., was sent 
from Kingston to oppose them with four com- 
panies of the 83rd, two heavy guns, and a 
Howitzer. They succeeded in dislodging the 


i \ 

) ' 



enemy and takin^^ some prisoners after a severe 

The most dangerous organisation proved 
to be in Lower Canada, in the districts of 
Beauharnois and Chateaugay. On Sunday 
the 4th of November the rebels attacked 
Cochnawaga, where the Indian pilots for the 
rapids live. While they were all in church, 
these fine fellows sallied forth, gave their 
assailants a good thrashing, and took seventy 
prisoners. The rebels then retired on Beau- 
harnois, Mr. Edward Ellice's Seigniory, and 
drove out the inhabitants, taking prisoner Mr. 
Ellice junior, M.P., Lord Durham's Secretary, 
with others, whom they sent to the convent at 

At the commencement of these disturbances, 
the Grenadier Guards were forthwith sent for 
from Quebec, Three Rivers, and Nicolet. 
They immediately went up to Montreal in one 
of the big river steamers — I think it was the 
John Bull — and the day after their arrival 
there they started on an expedition to Napier- 
ville, where the rebels and sympathisers had 
assembled their great army, called the " Army 

» I 



of Canada," and had established themselves in 
very considerable numbers. The expedition, 
under the command of Sir James Macdonell, 
which had been reinforced by the 7th Hussars, 
the 71st Highland Light Infantry, and three 
guns, advanced on this stronghold, and found 
the enemy well posted and prepared to receive 
them. As it was late in the afternoon when 
it arrived near the village, Sir James deter- 
mined to wait till next morning and then 
attack the place. 

During the night the Grenadier Guards 
watched the lights of the enemy's outposts, 
and towards morning they observed that they 
decreased in number, and that the fires were 
going out. 

When daylight appeared, the force advanced 
with much caution, the 71st stealing along 
round the left flank, but they found the rebels 
had bolted, and had left the place in their 
hands. Some prisoners, large stores of arms 
and ammunition were found, and some curious 
documents, amongst them a complete plan of 
the future government of Canada, with the 
names of all the ministers and heads of de- 

! I 







partments whom they intended to appoint. 
The troops had some very heavy marching, 
and altogether an arduous campaign, though 
they were disappointed of their fight. After 
their work, the 7th Hussars and the Grenadier 
Guards went back to Montreal, and were 
quartered there for many months. 

During this year many outrages were com- 
mitted on our frontier line. Among others, a 
party of the insurgents attempted to burn a 
whole family, named Vosbury, in their house. 
They shut the unfortunate people up in the 
upper story, bound the father and son, and 
then set fire to the house. Happily the son, 
a powerful young fellow, succeeded in breaking 
his bonds, just in time to be able to save 
the rest of the family before the house was 

Soon after the capture of Napierville, Sir 
John Colborne, our Governor, sent Captain 
C. A. Lewis (now General Lewis) of the 
Grenadier Guards on a special mission, with 
unsealed orders, to the Governor of Vermont, 
to demand the giving up of the ruffians who 
had committed this outrage. At this time the 



relations between Great Britain and the United 
States were somewhat strained on account of 
the burning of the Caroline and other matters. 
Nevertheless the Governor received Captain 
Lewis with great kindness, and showed much 
good feeling. At the same time he told him 
he had no power to give up the men, and he 
feared the general Government had no more 
power than he had, and that, even if they 
had, the feeling in the country against the 
" Britishers " was so strong that he doubted 
their being able to convey the prisoners safely 
over the frontier line. 

At that time Mr. Van Buren was President 
of the United States, Mr. Fox was English 
Minister, and Mr. Forsyth the American 
Secretary of State. On leaving Vermont, 
Captain Lewis went on to Washington to Mr. 
Fox, who gave him a letter of introduction 
to Mr. Forsyth, as he thought he could explain 
the case more strongly to him than he could 
as minister. 

Mr. Forsyth received Captain Lewis very 
kindly, and invited him to dine with him and 
talk the matter over after dinner. Captain 





Lewis had, however, to wait a fortnight before 
he received any official answer. During the 
time he remained at Washington he was 
invited to several very good parties and balls. 
At length he received his official answer, which 
was unfavourable ; so he started on his return 
journey to Canada. Going through New York, 
he was waylaid by the British Consul, who 
asked him to take very important despatches, 
which had just arrived from England by the 
Great Western steamer (her first voyage), to 
Sir John Colborne. He consented, but it 
took him seven days and six nights hard 
travelling in waggons, and latterly in sleighs, 
to get through. However, he got back 
safe to Montreal at last, and after a quiet 
little sleep of twenty-five hours (!) he made 
his appearance again, and still lives to tell 
the tale. 

When all the troops that were expected 
had arrived, I went up to my chief. Colonel 
Gore, at Montreal, carrying despatches from 
Colonel Bowles, who was then commanding 
at Quebec. 

After all our work, the winter of 1838- 



39 was a merry one. We had a large 
garrison in Montreal and its neighbourhood. 
The 7th Hussars, several batteries of Royal 
Artillery, the second battalion Grenadier 
Guards, the ist Royals, the 32nd Light In- 
fantry, and 73rd Regiment, were all there ; also 
Sir John Colborne (who had been appointed 


Governor - General) and his staff; General 
Clitheroe (commanding the garrison) and his 
staff, and all the headquarter departments. 
There were also the King's Dragoon Guards 
and the 15th Regiment at Chambly, the 71st 
Highland Light Infantry at St. John's, and 
several other corps within reach. 

A good driving club was established, also 

.! i 






a four-in-hand club and a tandem club, and we 
had plenty of balls, parties, and theatricals. 

All appeared happy and bright, but the 
season was not destined to pass without a 
cloud. On the opening day of the four-in-hand 
club, Captain Jack Saville, a fine sporting 


fellow of the 7th Hussars, drove over from 
La Prairie across the ice, a distance of about 
9 miles. He had purchased a beautiful 
sleigh and furnished it with very handsome 
fur robes, and his team of four thorough- 
breds was considered perfect. On arriving at 
Montreal, he stopped at the harness-maker's 
shop to get a new whip. Like many other 




young men, he had despised the severity of the 
climate, and had driven over in an English 
"top hat," a pair of kid gloves, and common 
leather boots. When he came to take off his 
glove to get his purse, he found all his fingers 
frozen, he then looked at his other hand and 
found it just as bad. Trying to stand up he 
found that he had no feeling in his feet. The 
poor fellow was carried into the shop, where 
it was discovered that both his feet were frozen. 
Everything was done for him, all the best 
doctors were sent for, but to no avail. He 
was laid up for many weeks in bed, and finally 
had to sell off his beautiful equipage and horses, 
and go home to England, having lost several 
fingers and toes. He was a sad loss to our 
society in Montreal. 

While troops were still quartered in Chambly 
the barracks caught fire, and, being built of wood, 
the officers' quarters were soon burnt to the 
ground. Among others, a young officer ran out 
and saved himself; but, remembering that he had 
left in his room a medal which he had gained for 
service in the field, he rushed back through the 
flames to get it — medals were very rare in those 

' "' 1 



i 1 





days. He soon came out again into the square, 
holding up the treasure in his hand, and calling 
out, " I am all right ; I've got it." Poor fellow, 
before night he was a dead man ; the flames 
had gone down his throat. 

Towards the end of the winter, the roads 
across the ice in Canada become very danger- 
ous. A year seldom passes without some 
accidents. If you are obliged to cross the St. 
Lawrence frequently, you should be very 
cautious and should study carefully the appear- 
ance of the ice. Water lying on the surface 
seldom indicates danger. An old Canadian 
will dash fearlessly through deep water on the 
road, but when it becomes dry and clean, and 
takes a gray, sickly appearance, look out ! it is 
sure to be honeycombed and rotten. 

Early in the spring of 1839, two fine young 
soldiers of the 7th Hussars were riding over 
on duty from La Prairie to Montreal by the 
usual ice road across the river. They got safe 
across, the leading soldier was on the bank, 
the second was trotting carelessly up to him, 
when suddenly the ice gave way and both man 
and horse were plunged into the water. In a 




moment his comrade was off his saddle and 
down to his assistance. The horse had already 
disappeared, swept by the rapid current under 
the ice, but the man had got his arms over the 
edge of it, his legs and body being drawn under 
by the force of the water. His comrade 
succeeded in clutching hold of his hand, and 
was drawing him slowly towards the bank, the 
poor fellow congratulating himself on being 
saved. "Hold fast, Bill!" "All right, Tom!" 
Alas ! alas ! the wet gauntlet slipped off his 
hand, and remained in his comrade's grasp. A 
piercing cry of despair, and nothing more was 
ever seen of the fine young Hussar. 

The want of reliable maps having been 
much felt in Canada, I proposed that officers of 
the line should be employed to make military 
sketches of the country. At first my proposal 
was ridiculed, but later on I was allowed to try 
the experiment. Captains Colville, Ready, and 
Scott volunteered for the work, and in the sum- 
mer of 1839 they niaide a beautiful sketch of the 
eastern townships all along the frontier line 45°. 
It was plotted in, and sent to the Quartermaster- 
General's office the following spring. 

i N 






I must here relate a curious history of 
a very remarkable bird that belonged to the 
Coldstream Guards. 

Saint Anthony had a pig, they say ; and the 
Coldstream Guards had a goose. I don't mean 
to say theirs was the only regiment in Her 
Majesty's army that rejoiced in the possession 
of such an article, but theirs was a remarkable 
goose. I think it must have been a lineal 
descendant of the ancient geese that saved 
the Citadel of Rome, and probably would have 
done as much if the opportunity had occurred. 

Well, one day this goose was taking its 
morning walk in the Citadel at Quebec, and 
happened to observe a nice-looking young man 
on sentry walking up and down in front of the 
officers' mess-house. The goose being of a 
social disposition stepped up, put his long neck 
close to the man's leg, and walked up and 
down with him, much to his amusement. 
Shortly after this it came on to rain, and the 
sentry went into his sentry-box. Goosie 
observed this move with a thoughtful counte- 
nance, soon grasped the situation, and, not 
choosing to be left out in the rain, pushed his 




way into the sentry-box, turned round, and 
stuck out his head to look about. In due 
course of time the corporal came with the 
relief ; the old sentry told the story about the 
goose, and the party watched with great 
interest to see what the intelligent bird would 
do. It observed with equal interest the little 
ceremony of the relief. This being over, 
goosie gazed at the receding form of his old 
friend, then inspected the newcomer, and being 
satisfied with his appearance continued to walk 
up and down with him. This went on day 
after day till the battalion left Canada. The 
goose was then carried carefully on board ship 
and brought to England, where he was intro- 
duced to a sentry in the Portman Street 
barracks, and continued to perform his duties 
with unabated zeal. 

I frequently saw this remarkable bird when 
I went to the Citadel at Quebec, where I had 
numerous friends in the Coldstream Guards, 
and I remember well the termination of the 
sentry's orders on that post — " In case of fire 
alarm the guard, and take care of the goosey 










Lord Charles lieauclerk — Three months' leave — Race across 
the Atlantic — Scotland again — Back to Montreal Survey 
— -Long leave — London — 1 resented to Her (Gracious 
Majesty Queen Victoria — Society. 

After our troubles were over I managed to 
get a little shooting and fishing. My principal 
sporting companion at that time was Lord 
Charles Beauclerk. A fine handsome fellow, as 
honest and straight as a die, he was endowed 
with great energy and bodily strength and a 
certain amount of inventive genius. This last 
qualification was not, however, at all times 
successful. I remember in the autumn of the 
first year that we were at Montreal, he had a 
dog -cart built on some wonderful new prin- 
ciple. Before it was completed the winter 
began to set in, so he had the body taken 
off the wheels and fitted to runners for the 
snow-roads. Not liking to lose the wheels, he 

[ I 



had a second pair made, and fitted the four to 
a waggon, which was, if I remember rightly, 
to carry his skiff. A Httle later, he found the 
cart body was not altogether adapted for winter 
work, so he had an ordinary sleigh body made 
for the runners ; but then the poor body of the 
cart remained, like a cherub, with nothing to 
stand on, so he had a new pair of wheels made 
for it, and ended by having three vehicles, the 
produce of the one dog-cart. 

Beauclerk had apartments in a small house 
opposite mine in the Quebec suburbs. One 
afternoon I saw a crowd round his house, and 
I v/ent over to see what was going on. I 
found him sitting on a large stone in the yard 
of the house, streaming with perspiration, and 
his clothes nearly torn off his back. I learned 
that his landlord kept a small bull in his stable; 
the beast had got loose, and had been chasing 
the man, his wife, daughter, and son round 
the yard. Charlie, hearing the noise, looked 
out of his back window, and saw that the 
people were in great danger of their lives, so, 
without a moment's hesitation, he rushed down 
and went straight at the bull, who was a little 

J I mg'mmmfm'fimm 

I.M,. ^MMMtSm 




Canadian fellow but very savage. Charlie 
succeeded after a while in getting hold of the 
animal's horns, and they had a tremendous 
struggle together. At length the man got the 
best of it ; he turned the beast over, and so 
completely cowed the bull that he ran away 
into his stable and was shut up. Beauclerk 
was a very quiet, kind-hearted fellow. No one 
would have ever heard of this story if I had 
not happened to come up at the time. 

I made an interesting fishing expedition with 
him to the Lake St. Louis from Montreal. 
He had a light skiff, made by a celebrated 
builder at Kingston. I had an experimental 
bark canoe, that I had fitted up with tin-tube 
outriggers like a two-sided catamaran. I had 
long light oars to it instead of paddles, and a 
mast and large square sail. 

Charlie Beauclerk decided to go up to 
Lachine by the canal. Finding that a strong 
easterly wind was blowing, I wished to try if 
it was possible with my light craft to sail up 
the great Lachine rapid. 

I got on very well past the wharves and up 
to Nun's Island, but then the wind began to 




get a little Htful, and trying to jump up a small 
fall it failed me ; my canoe was swung round 
by the force of the water, and one of my 
outriggers was broken. I managed, however, 
to get safe to the shore with my wreck. 

I then took off both tin outriggers, and 
carried them, with my oars, fishing-tackle, etc., 
up by land to a place above the rapid. I also 
carried up the canoe on my head. All this 
I did in three trips. I set to work and refitted 
my ship, and got everything right again, and 
then went on up to Lachine, where I found 
Charlie already arrived in his skiff. We went 
on together up Lake St. Louis to a small 
island. It was a pretty little island, not much 
more than a hundred yards long, overgrown 
with trees except on one side, where there was 
a small strip of clear ground. Here we decided 
to camp, and having had our supper, we lay 
down in the open and went fast asleep. The 
wind had fallen. 

In the middle of the night we were 
awakened by tremendous thunder and light- 
ning, very cold and wet through to the skin. 
We then hauled up the skiff, turned her half 




over, and got under her, and so we ended our 
comfortable (?) night. 

When we awoke again the storm had passed 
away, and the sun was shining bright. It was 
a beautiful morning. We set to work to dry 
our clothes and get some breakfast, but what 
was our dismay when we found that our large 
piece of lamb that we had been depending upon 
for two days' provision had become tainted 
and not fit to eat. So we had to sit down in 
dudgeon and eat our bread and drink our tea. 
While we were so employed we saw a weasel 
come out of the bush and creep down to the 
bit of lamb. After a careful inspection, he 
commenced having a grand feast. Charlie 
eyed him for some time with increasing 
jealousy ; he was very hungry. At last he 
jumped up and shouted out, ** I'm hanged if 
you shall have the whole of the feast to your- 
self." He ran down, picked up the piece of 
lamb, and brought it back into camp. He 
then cut out the best part and made a stew 
of it, which was not half so bad after all. 
When we left our island we bequeathed the 
remainder to Mr. Weasel. 




We fished all day and got some black bass 
and poisson dore, and in the evening we pulled 
to a large island some little way up the lake. 
There we landed, and were surprised to find 
a very large encampment amongst the trees, 
but not a soul to be seen about it. So we 
concluded it was abandoned, and accordingly 
took possession of a little camp near where 
our boats were. 

We had hardly commenced cooking our 
supper when we heard a great noise and 
singing far off. W^e went to the water's edge 
to look out, and saw a long line of lights 
all across the lake in the far distance. They 
gradually approached ; we then heard beauti- 
ful Canadian boat-songs sung by a number of 
voices, and soon began to hear the splash of 
paddles keeping time to the music. 

The lights came nearer and nearer, till 
at last a party of over a hundred men landed 
from canoes. They were the owners of the 
encampment, a very large fishing party from 
Chateaugay. I went forward and apologised 
for having appropriated one of their sleeping- 
places, asking if I might finish boiling my 


I li 

i r 







pot before we made a camp for ourselves. 
They were extremely civil, and would not 
hear of our moving, so I finished my cooking 
and we fraternised with them. 

They soon lighted up their fires and set 
to work to cook. The encampment consisted 
of a number of little camps for one or two 
men each, scattered about among the trees ; 
the smoke curling up through the branches, 
men running about for water and wood, the 
flashing in the red light from innumerable 
little fires, presented a most curious and 
beautiful sight. After supper they sang some 
capital Canadian songs in full chorus. We 
all then turned in and had a good night's 
rest in our sylvan camp. Next morning our 
friends were off soon after daylight, and we 
too went out to fish. 

The end of my poor friend Charlie Beau- 
clerk was very sad, but truly characteristic 
of his gallant nature. He was staying at 
Scarborough, I believe, with his wife and 
children. One day there came on a terrific 
gale, and a schooner was wrecked close in 
front of the town, when trying to run into the 



harbour. The life-boat went out to the rescue, 
but was capsized and her crew thrown into the 
water. Beauclerk and some others rushed into 
the waves to save them. They got all on shore 
but two, who were drowned. At last my poor 
friend Charlie was seen kneeling down on the 
beach apparently exhausted. Numbers of the 
lookers-on ran down to his assistance ; he was 
carried home, but I believe he never spoke 
more. I always understood that he had been 
crushed between the life-boat and the pier. So 
ended the life of as fine a fellow as ever lived. 

In the summer of 1839 I got three months' 
leave of absence, and crossed the Atlantic in 
the Great Western steamship from New York ; 
it was her secor.d voyage home. By previous 
arrangement she was to race with the British 
Queen, then on her first voyage. The start 
was a very interesting scene ; all the people in 
New York were out to see it, and every house- 
top was crowded. They were the first two 
ships that had been built for the Atlantic ser- 
vice. We were lying together between the 
wharves. When the tide came up and floated 
us we backed out, then drew together and 

ff- '• 

i i i 

18 1 




■-! I 

touched paddle-boxes. The word being given, 
away we went, followed by hundreds of little 
river steamers of every size and description. 
We soon left them all, and before night we had 
steamed our opponent hull down astern of us. 
We were wonderfully comfortable on board 
with only sixty passengers, amongst whom 
was Murat, the son of the King of Naples, 
with his staff; they were all very agreeable, 
jolly fellows. Our passage money was ;^50, 
including everything — champagne all day long 
if you wished it. We won the race by forty- 
eight hours, and ran up to Bristol. 

At Montreal I had been given despatches — 
a great white bag — to take home. At Bristol 
I went to the coach-office to secure my place to 
London, and there I got the clerk to put my 
precious bct.</ into his safe until it was time to 
start. When the coach came I jumped up on 
the box-seat, and so delighted was I to find 
myself once more on an English mail-coach, 
with four good horses before us, that I forgot 
all about the despatches. Fortunately, just as 
we were starting, the clerk came running out 
with the big bag in his arms. I took the b^ie 



noir, or, I should rather say, bete blanc, up to 
town, delivered it safe — thanks to the clerk — 
and then went on to Scotland by The Dundee 

I went to the old moor at Glen Dye, and 
* had some capital grouse shooting; then returned 
to Canada by the same good ship that had 
brought me over, arriving at Montreal within 
my leave. This was considered a wonderful 
feat at that time. 

In the spring of 184 1 I obtained leave to 
go up and survey the Niagara district myself, 
and completed the work in three months. 

When I went out to Canada in 1862 as 
Deputy Quartermaster- General I found our 
old sketches remaining, but no fresh work 
done. I then obtained a liberal allowance 
from the Government, and plenty of officers 
volunteered for the work. Colonel Wolseley,^ 
my assistant, rendered valuable service in 
compiling and regulating the work from our 
office. So good was our survey considered 
that Sir W. Logan, the head of the Canadian 
Geological Department, obtained leave to use 

^ Now F.M. \'iscount Wolseley, our Commander-in-Chief. 




lii I: 






it, and based his geological survey on our 
military sketches. 

After I had finished my sketch of the Niagara 
district in 1841, I returned to England by 
Quebec, Picton, and Halifax, crossing the 
Atlantic in the Cunard steamer Britannia. I 
arrived at Liverpool on the 29th July, and 
vent up once more to Glen Dye, and had 
<..■; Visual excellent sport. 

KcTily in the year 1842 I went up to London 
';-^ "iCi, something of the society of my own 
country, diiu had the honour of being pre- 
sented to our Most Gracious Queen Victoria 
at St. James's Palace. Her Majesty was then 
quite young, and it was beautiful to see her 
graceful little form amidst all her grand 

At that time the Queen's levees and draw- 
ing-rooms were all held in St. James's Palace. 
I remember when ladies were first allowed to 
have chairs or forms to sit on in the waiting- 
room. One room was then sufficiently large 
to contain all those who attended. 

The opera was in its balmy days that year ; 
Grisi, Lablache, Persiani, Tambourini, etc., 




were at their zenith. I was fortunate enough 
to get a very nice stall, and seldom missed 
a subscription night. On these nights Her 
Majesty's Theatre presented a magnificent 
sight. The Queen and Prince Albert were 
usually in their places, and Prince George, 
attended by Captains Tyrwhitt and Macdonald, 
was usually to be seen in the lower tier of 
boxes nearly opposite Her Majesty. All the 
dukes and duchesses and high people of the 
land had their private boxes, with their names 
on the outside of their doors, and they received 
visitors there. 

Taglioni, Cherito, and other celebrities were 
then dancing ; and the ballets, which were 
managed by Perrot, an ugly little fellow, but a 
capital dancer, were very poetical and beautiful. 

Almac's balls were all the rage then. They 
were held in Willis's Rooms, and though all the 
dite society of London attended them, they 
were never overcrowded. 

At the termination of my leave of absence 
I returned to Canada in the Cunard steamer 

Columbia, via Boston. 



i :( 



Moose hunting— Bush craft — My first moose — An exciting 
run — Fishing — Races — A heavy load — Back to the Indian 

During my long stay in Canada I took many 
winter trips into the bush in quest of moose 
deer, and met with not a few adventures. 

In order to get on comfortably in the vast 
silent forest, it is necessary to acquire some little 
knowledge of "bush craft," especially in the 
construction of a camp. In this, the first thing 
to be thought of is the site ; it must be well 
sheltered from the wind. If you get too near 
the edge of the bush on the border of a lake 
or barren open, no amount of fire will keep you 
warm. The next consideration is the supply 
of water ; lake water is not good, and melted 
snow is not nice ; you must find clear spring 
water. By observing the configuration of the 
ground and the growth of the trees you can 





usually discover the run of some little streamlet, 
and by putting your ear to the snow you will 
hear the trickling of the water beneath. You 
have then only to dig down through the snow 
and make a convenient watering-place. A piece 
of nice, sweet birch bark will make a good 
spout, which will greatly facilitate the filling 
of the kettles and make quite a picturesque 
fountain. The next desideratum is a plentiful 
supply of suitable wood for burning, which is, in 
fact, your life. It must be close at hand, for the 
trees have to be cut into logs of about 8 feet 
in length and carried to the camp, which entails 
considerable labour. The large sugar maple 
burns well, the birch not badly ; pine wood will 
light your fire well, but it burns too quickly. 
A few good pencil cedars within reach are use- 
ful to make shovels of or boards, the wood 
splits easily and straight. Willow will not 
burn, but, because it won't burn, it is sometimes 
useful in a single camp to put at the back of 
the fire. Lastly, you must look round and see 
if there are plenty of what the Canadians call 
" sapin " trees; they are deliciously smelling 
pines, of which you make the beds. 







Having satisfied yourself that you are sur- 
rounded by all these requisites, you may safely 
set to work to establish a headquarter camp. 

I must here say that in Canada, as in all 
other countries, winters vary. I have known 
at the latter part of a winter not more than 
3 feet of snow on the ground, while in other 
years I have seen 6 feet. This does not mean 
what we should call a 6 -feet fall of snow in 
England, but a number of falls of snow packed 
one on the top of another on a dead level in 
the bush, where there are no drifts. It is 
curious to cut down perpendicularly through 
this solid mass and see the result of all the 
different storms, well defined like geological 
strata. The heaviest fall, when compressed, is 
seldom more than 5 or 6 inches in thickness at 

Having decided on our site, we all set to 
work — some to dig out the snow with their 
snow-shoes, others to cut shovels to complete 
the work, others to cut down " sapin " trees, 
rods, and forked stakes, and one clever fellow 
to construct the watering-place. As soon as 
we had completed clearing away the snow down 



to the ground for a space of about 10 feet long 
by 16 broad, with perpendicular walls all round, 
we usually lighted a little fire and fried a bit 
of salt pork as a relish and then went on to 
complete our work. Two stakes with forks at 
the upper ends were driven into the ground at 
one end of the camp, 4 feet apart at the entrance, 
and two at the farther end to correspond. Two 
long rods were then placed in the forks of these 
stakes to support the roof, and shorter sticks or 
rods were placed all along over both sides as 
rafters, the lower ends resting on the snow, the 
upper ends on the two long rods. These 
rafters were then covered with large sapin 
branches, and the ends of the camp were also 
closed up, leaving only the doorway open, and 
a space at the opposite end for the wood to be 
hauled through on to the fire. By the time 
this work was done, those who had been em- 
ployed in getting sapin for the beds would be 
coming in. For this purpose only the ends of 
the small branches at the tops of the trees were 
used ; they were broken off by the hand, and 
great bundles of them were required. They 
were carefully built in, stalks downwards and 







tops up, and formed a most delicious, sweet- 
smelling, spring bed. The beds on both sides 
having been completed, two stout poles '"^re 
fixed along the bottoms of them, for us ^^ put 


our heels against, in order to prevent us from 
slipping into the fire ; a few large branches of 
sapin were placed against the snow at the back 
on either side as wainscotting or tapestry, and 
our splendid apartments were ready for occupa- 
tion. Our permanent fire was then lighted down 




the centre, about 8 feet lon^, pots and kettles 
were got out, arkl our kits arranged at our 
heads, etc. It soon looked like home, and we 
were as comfortable and happy as though we 
had been living there for the last ten years. 

In those days we used to go out in February, 
when there was a good crust on the snow, and 
run the deer down on our snow-shoes. My 
first trip was in 1839 ; I went with Mr. Rogers, 
the head clerk in the Ouartermaster-General's 
office. He had bee a great hunter, but, un- 
fortunately, had been accidentally shot by a 
companion on one of his expeditions and was * 
no longer up i » much work We knew the 
snow was very bad that yea**, but I wished to 
try my hand and learn my work. On the 
second day we started a moose and ran him. 
As Rogers had to turn back, I went on with 
two Indians, and we ran till it became dark, 
but there was no sign of our coming up to the 
moose, so we decided to sleep where we were 
and start on again the following morning, hoping 
the moose might take it into his head to do 
the same. 

We had no time to make a camp, or even 



{ i 







to dig out the snow, so we cut down some 
large pine branches and lighted a fire on the 
top of them, and got some more to lie upon. 
One of the Indians made a bucket of birch 
bark in which we melted some snow to drink, 
but we had nothing to eat beyond two biscuits 
and half a partridge that had been killed by 
a hawk, and which Michael had picked up on 
the way — not a very sumptuous repast after a 
long day's work. However, we plucked our 
game, roasted it by the fire, and all three 
shared alike ; we then made up the fire and 
slept like tops. 

Next morning we started on again at day- 
light and ran for many hours, but at Ic^;*^^ 
the Indians, having examined the track, pro- 
nounced our chase to be hopeless, so we gave 
it up and returned, cutting across by the 
shortest line, to our original camp, glad 
enough to find Rogers there and get some- 
thing to eat. 

The following year I had a more successful 
trip with a brother officer, Joe Wyndham of 
the Royals. He was a short, broad-shouldered, 
powerful fellow, anr" a capital runner. We 



went to the hunting ground I had discovered 
the previous year, and I engaged my friend 
old Michael and some other good Indians at 
their village near Rawdon, about 75 miles 
from Montreal, whence we made our start for 
the bush. 

The Indians persuaded us on our first day's 
hunting to try our luck at what is called a 
"moose yard"; this consists of some hundred 
acres of forest containing a quantity of the 
bushes which the moose feed upon. The 
animals keep on walking about in this space 
till they make a labyrinth of beaten tracks, and 
it is extremely difficult to force them to break 
away from them into the deep snow, so that you 
can run them. We went and tried every sort 
of dodgre. We had a little douf with us, and 
could hear him yelping away after the deer, 
but they were so wary, and ran so quickly 
along their beaten tracks, that we could never 
get a shot at them. At last I was standing 
in a small open space with some very thick 
bush before me, having given up the sport 
as hopeless, when I heard something coming 
through the trees. In another second I saw 

I p 



an enormous monster plunging out straight 
before me. I dragged my gun out of its 
woollen case and popped on my caps ; the 
moose, seeing me, turned to his right and 
presented his side. 1 took a deliberate aim 
and fired ; the moose gave a quick jerk, moved 
on a few paces, and then sank down dead, — a 
magnificent specimen, 22 hands high at the 
shoulder. My first blood, a great prize, but 
got too easily. 

The following day we came upon the old 
track of a moose, which we determined to 
follow up. It had always been said that a 
white man could not run a moose, and gentle- 
men hunters were in the habit of allowing their 
Indians to run the moose and hamstring them, 
then walking up leisurely and shoot'iig the 
poor disabled animals. Joe and I weie deter- 
mined not to allow such an unsportsmanlike 
practice, but to try to run the moose ourselves. 
We desired the Indians, if they got up first to 
the moose, not to touch him. We had not 
far to go before we found our moose, and away 
he went leaving a tremendous track behind 



Every man threw away his bundle, and we 
started for our race. Wyndham could beat 
me hollow at running, but he was not half as 
experienced on snow-shoes as I was. He 
went off with a fine stride ahead of us all, but 
I saw by the extraordinary gyrations of his 
snow-shoes that it wasn't going to last. We 
had not gone far when I saw him go over 
head foremost, with the fore part of both 
snow-shoes stuck fast down in the snow and 
his arms buried up to the elbows. I heard 
loud exclamations, " For God's sake, come 
and help me ; I can't get up." " Yes, yes, 
we'll come back presently." Then there was 
a great deal of scufliing and a considerable 
amount of unparliamentary language, but on 
we went and soon the sounds of lamentation 
died away in the distance, Michael was going 
steadily on my right, one young Indian well 
ahead, on my left another a little beyond 
Michael. The pace began to tell ; off went 
my cap, then my sash, then the comforter from 
my neck, then my coat, — in fact, everything I 
could dispense with except my trousers and 
gun. I saw Michael's superfluous habiliments 

f I 







flying all over the country. The ground was 
uneven ; there were many fallen trees covered 
with snow, and the glare on the dazzling white 
made it difficult to see anything. Going over 
a fallen tree the snow gave way with me, and 
over I went. I was soon up again, but I had 
lost ground and Michael was ahead. Presently 
I had the gratification of seeing my Indian 
friend topple over and roll like a ball down a 
small declivity, then I got my place again. 
My two young competitors seemed to be in 
difficulties with their snow - shoes, and were 
perpetually tumbling head over heels, though 
they were as active as cats and lost but little 
ground. At length I saw a dark object in 
front of us, rushing through the trees, and 
sending the snow up like foam. 'Twas the 
moose ! I got well within shot of him, but 
could not get a fair broadside shot. We 
closed on him ; the young Indian on my 
left attracted his attention and brought him to 
bay. The moose turned towards him. In a 
moment I had my gun out of its woollen case 
and slipped on my caps, and before he had 
time to start again I had a ball through his 

t » 



heart. He was a very pretty young bull 
moose, with a beautiful head and two perfect 
horns, a very rare thing at this time of year, 
when they are usually hornless. The Indians 
set to work at once to cut open the moose 
and clean him out. While this was going on, 
poor Joe Wyndham came up, looking terribly 
demoralised, his snow-shoes hanging on his 
feet in the most original fashion. 

Although the head and horns were small 
I decided to take them home, if possible, 
because they were so perfect and symmetrical. 
I had the head cut off, with a good part of the 
skin of the neck, and buried it in the snow. 
I also took the hocks to make boots of, and 
enough meat for the camp. The Indians buried 
the rest for their summer supply. We then 
went on to a comfortable place for our camp. 

That evening I gave Joe a good lesson in 
tying on his snow-shoes, in which art I was 
a professor. I then arranged that he and two 
Indians should go out the following day after 
one set of tracks which the Indians knew of, 
and that I would go out in the opposite direc- 
tion, and look for others. 

(' ' 





Next morning, accordingly, we were off 
early, and I killed a very fine old bull, with 
which I had an adventure. I came up to him 
on the side of a very steep hill, and got close 
to him, but I could not get a fair shot. I fired, 
hoping to turn him. It was a heavy steamy 
day, and the smoke hung thick before me ; 
I heard the Indians shouting and saw them 
running for the trees. Next moment I saw 
the moose's great moufle (or nose) coming 
through the smoke straight at me within a few 
yards. I had just time to raise my gun to my 
hip, and fire into his chest. It did not bring 
him down, but just turned him a little, and 
he passed so close by my left side that I could 
have put my hand on his back. He went 
on a little way, then stopped, trembled vio- 
lently, fell sideways, and rolled over and over, 
crashing through the trees to the bottom of the 
hill, quite dead. Having taken the moufle and 
hocks, I went back to our camp, and found 
Wyndham, who had also killed a moose (his 
first). We then moved on to a small lake, 
which I was told was full of very large 



Here we found a ready-made camp that 
some hunter or fisherman had spent some time 
and care in making. It was on exactly the 
same plan as the camp I have already described, 
but smaller ; and, instead of being covered with 
sapin branches, it was roofed in with cedar 
boards (see p. 126). We swept it out, and 
made fresh sapin beds, considering ourselves 
most fortunate. Our beautiful camp did not, 
however, prove to be so comfortable as we 
expected, for when the fire was lighted the 
smoke positively refused to go out by the aper- 
ture made for its egress, and preferred going 
into our eyes, making them smart awfully, and 
getting thicker and thicker. However, we 
managed to eat our soup, then lay down fiat to 
get below the smoke, lighted our pipes, talked 
over the events of the day, and made plans 
for the morrow. After which we rolled 
ourselves up in cur blankets, and slept like 

Early next morning, a little before dawn of 
day, always the coldest part of the night, I 
awoke shivering and saw the fire had got 
very low. Every one was asleep and still. 





i'i ! 

1 1 

It is not nice getting out of one's warm 
blanket to haul frozen logs of wood on the fire, 
so I gave Wyndham a kick and then pre- 
tended to be asleep. I waited a little while, 
but there was no response ; so I tried again, 
when the old scoundrel burst out laughing, and 
said : "I did that to you a quarter of an hour 
ago, and that's why you awoke." So, after a 
good laugh, we both turned out and made up 
the fire. 

After breakfast we went off to the lake, 
which was small, in a deep hollow surrounded 
by pine woods. We cut several holes through 
the thick ice with chisels fixed on the end of 
poles, and then lowered long fishing - lines 
baited with pieces of pork fat. Through them, 
after a while, we caught a few large trout, 
dark-looking fish, with black stars or crosses 
on their backs and sides. One was so large 
that he would not come up through the hole, 
and I was obliged to let him run till I had 
chiselled the ice away to make room for him. 
They were fine fish, but there was but little 
sport in getting them, and they were not as 
good to eat as the small burn trout, so we soon 


> II 



gave up fishing. The water in this lake was 
as dark as Guinness's XX, and was said to 
have no bottom ! The snow on the ice being 
hard and quite flat, Wyndham proposed that 
we should have some races, and we got up 
several good matches amongst our Indians, 
two of whom were considered the best runners 
of their tribe ; but their performances did not 
appear to us as being anything extraordinary, 
so I proposed a match between Wyndham and 
their champion. They quite ridiculed the idea 
of a white man running against their best 
runner. However, the race came off and 
resulted, to their infinite surprise, in Wyndham 
beating their great champion hollow. 

Not liking our smoky camp, we went back 
to our former resting-place and slept there. I 
arranged that Wyndham should go next morn- 
ing, with our second Indian, Schoisin, and one 
of the young fellows, after a moose, whose 
track they knew of, and that I, with Michael 
and the other youngster, should go back to the 
big lake with the toboggins and make a camp, 
going round to pick up on our road the moose 
head I had buried. To this, however, the 





\- > 

1 1,1 


Indians objected, saying they could not put 
the head on the tobog^in, as it was too broad, 
and none of them could carry it, as it was too 
heavy. I said nothing, but was determined 
not to be done. 

Next morning, having got some breakfast 
and seen everything ready for a move, I 
wished Joe Wyndham good luck and turned 
to Michael, and said, "Go on and make the 
camp; I'm going to get my moose head." 
They all stared with astonishment. The possi- 
bility of a white man finding his way through 
the bush, across the trackless snow, had never 
occurred to them. However, off I went. I 
felt confident I could find my way, but as to 
whether I could even lift the great head I felt 
very doubtful. The way seemed longer than 
I expected, but at length I found the spot and 
dug out my head with my snow-shoe. I then 
took a toboggin thong which I always carried 
round my waist, and which was plaited broad 
and flat in the centre, and tied the two ends 
firm round the horns, leaving the centre part 
just loose enough to go over my head ; but, 
alas! I could not lift the heavy thing off the 



ground. After a s^ood deal of consideration, 
I set to work to roll and wriggle the head up 
on to the highest part of the snow ; it was 
on the side of a little hill. I placed it with 
the horns towards me, and the thong hanging 
down between them. I then cut away the 
snow as nearly perpendicular as I could in 
front of it. This done I backed in, turning 
the tails of my snow-shoes a little outwards in 
order to get far enough back, and got the 
thong over my head, the horns resting on my 
shoulders. After a few efforts I managed to 
raise myself up straight with the head on my 
back, but I staggered under the weight and 
began to despair. I stood for a short time, 
and then thought I got more used to the 
weight and tried to move. At length I got 
fairly straight on my snow-shoes, and took one 
short step, very nearly falling. After a rest 
I tried another. I had to go round the hole 
I had made and then up a little rising ground. 
Step by step I accomplished it, but it was very 
slow work. When at the top I would have 
given worlds to put my load down and take a 
rest ; but I felt that if I did so I should never 


t ^ 




!'., 1 

'k 1 j 

S ! 'i 


j , 


get it up again, so on I went. The ground 
began to slope a little downwards, and I got 
more and more accustomed to my burden, and 
at last succeeded in getting down to the head of 
the big lake, and found I was before my Indians. 
I deposited my head carefully on a fallen tree 
which was just the right height, then went down 
and made a hole through the ice and lowered a 
fishing-line through it ; by the time Michael 
and the young Indian came up I was sitting 
quietly on the snow with two nice trout by my 
side. Their surprise was great at finding me 
before them. Indians are very silent. They 
said nothing, but I saw Michael's quick eye 
discover the head. This produced a long low 
grunt of astonishment. He went up and 
examined ^*t. and looked to see how I had tied 
the thong, had a talk about it with the boy, 
and then came up and looked at me with great 
interest and approval. Ever afterwards I was 
called the white Indian chief. 

We ate some biscuits and liti 

water, and then we started ac )ss tl . lake 
to make our camp on the other de. I 
shouldered my head, determined not to let 



them see it was too much for me, and I 
made a good walk of it to the end of our 
march. We then set to work and made a 
very good camp, with all the proper conditions 
but one — it was not sufficiently sheltered. We 
wanted to fish the next day, and we selected 
our site too near the lake. That night the 
thermometer fell far below zero, and, in spite 
of all the fire we could make, we felt the cold 
severely. I may here mention a curious effect 
of the extreme cold in the bush. It makes the 
trees crack and split with loud reports like 
guns and cannons. This night and the follow- 
ing one were like Ouatre Bras and the battle 
of Waterloo. Late in the evening Wyndham 
came in highly pleased, having got a second 
fine moose. 

The next day we went down to the lake 
and made a number of holes in the ice and 
lowered our lines through them, but the wind 
was so cold we were obliged to make screens 
of sapin branches to sit behind and save our- 
selves from freezing. We got a good number 
of nice trout, but nothing large. That evening 
I saw the realisation of what I had considered 

V >1 

ill I 





I:,. I 


a Baron Munchausen story. The boys had 
brought up the fish from the lake and had 
thrown them down at the entrance of the camp 
near the end of the fire ; they were all frozen 
hard, in the shapes they had last twisted them- 
selves into before they became rigid, and were 
so brittle that some of them were broken in 
half. While I was cooking the dinner I heard 
a peculiar tapping noise, which I could not 
make out. At last a little bright flash caught 
my eye. I looked on the ground and there 
I saw all the silvery little trout flapping and 
jumping about as merrily as possible, quite 
alive. I don't think the broken ones came 
to life again, the ends certainly did not reunite, 
but all the others danced a merry jig till I 
required them for the frying-pan. 

The following day we struck camp and 
marched back to the Indian village, I proudly 
carrying my head. All the Indians turned 
out to receive us ; when they saw me and 
heard the story they treated me with great 
respect. Thus ended one of my best hunts. 
I had killed three moose and Wyndham two. 


Trip to Rawdon — Darwin's shanty — A large moose — Nearly 
losing an earl — A long day's work. 

I HAD many other expeditions to the bush ; 
they were all much alike as far as bush craft 
went, so I will only describe a few more 
incidents that happened during one of them, 

I agreed to introduce three novices to the 
sport: the Earl of Mulgrave, A. D.C. to 
Sir Richard Jackson, Colonel Brook Taylor, 
military secretary, and Captain Dickson. 
Mulgrave, who lived in the same house with 
me in Montreal, and I clubbed horses together; 
he drove me at a hand gallop down the ice 
on the St. Lawrence to Bout ae lisle, where 
we found my light sleigh and tandem ready 
waiting. We jumped into it. and off we went 
again up the Assumption river to St. Jacques. 
There we had a hired sleigh that did not go 




very fast to take us to Rawdon, where I found 
my old friend Dogherty, who gave us a little 
dinner and then sent us on in a country sleigh 
to the Indian village, where we arrived at 
about dark, — "j^ miles, pretty good! Taylor 
and Dickson made similar arrangements. We 
slept in Michael's wigwam. 

I found difficulty about the Indians, as some 
stupid fellow had been up to my favourite 
hunting grounds, and had spoiled the market 
and the Indians. Old Michael, however, at 
once promised to go with me, and finally on 
the following morning we started off with him, 
Schoisin, two young Indians, and a half-breed 
to help cut wood. We had three toboggins 
and two bundles, in which were our provisions, 
blankets, and clothes. I also carried a small 
bundle of my own things. The first night 
we halted at " Darwin's shanty," one of Mr. 
Price's lumbering establishments. 

Mr. Darwin had with him about sixty men, 
who were employed felling timber. He received 
us with great kindness, and gave us places on 
the floor of his little office to sleep on. When 
we arrived the men were all out except the 


I .. 





old cook, so we cooked our dinner at his fire- 
place, a square piece of flat mud baked hard, 
with logs of wood round it, and a hole in the 
roof over it to let the smoke out when it took 
it into its head to go that way. After our 
dinner we heard a great shouting and singing 
outside, and all the company came crowding 
in. A finer set of men I never saw ; thev 
had their beautiful larfje shininij axes and 
some long two-handled saws for cutting the 
trees into lengths. They were a wild, rough, 
jolly lot, and we soon fraternised , they 
spoke French. After their supper they volun- 
teered to give us a performance, which was 
very amusing. They sang some pretty Cana- 
dian boat-songs and played some games. In 
one of them a man sat down on a bench 
with his legs apart and his open hands resting 
on his knees, palms inwards ; another man 
knelt down on the ground facing him, with 
a red cap on his head, imitating the noise of 
a squirrel, click-click-click, durr-r-r-h, on which 
he ducked his head down to the ground, the 
sitting man trying to knock the red cap off his 
head as he passed down between his knees. 







Then he made the same noise and came up 
again. There were sundry tricks in this game ; 
sometimes the squirrel, instead of ducking 
down, stuck himself straight up, and the sitting 
man only struck the middle of his body, the 
red cap being seldom knocked off. 


In another game they made a tail of paper 
and pinned it on to a man's trousers, so as 
to stick up behind like a dog's tail. He then 
started from the fireplace and danced round the 
shanty, wi*-h his hands up in the air, singing, 
" tu ne me mettras pas le feu a derriere," 
another man following him with a piece of 
lighted cedar trying to set fire to the tail. 



The performance was concluded by a 
number of men sitting down on two long 
benches, placed side by side, and pretending 
to paddle in time to a very pretty boat -song. 
After a verse or two they were supposed to 
come to the rapids, when they upset the canoe 
and all rolled away in every direction to their 
berths on either side of the shanty and turned 
in. During the performance Brook Taylor 
and I sang a little French duet which was 
highly appreciated. 

Next morning at daylight all our friends 
were off to their work, and we marched up 
the Laquarro river to the big lake, where we 
made a good camp. After a good night's 
rest, we all went out together to look for 
some tracks which Michael knew of. We 
started a moose and ran him, but my party 
were in no condition for the work ; Taylor 
hurt his foot and had to turn back, Mulgrave 
and Dickson came on, but very slowly. I 
got up to the moose with Schoisin and the 
young half-breed ; he was a splendid fellow, 
and I wished my prot(^gds to see him. I knew 
in a few minutes he would be off again if I 




did not shoot him, so I shot carefully through 
his hind legs ; that stopped him. At length 
Dickson came up very much out of breath ; 
I showed him the moose and he fired, but 
missed. I would not let him shoot again till 
Mulgrave had had a shot. When he came 
up he was rather bad, so I made him sit 
down and get his breath, taking care not to 
let him see the deer. When he had quieted 
down a little, I turned round and pointed to 
the splendid beast which he had not seen. 
He got his gun out, took a steady aim, and 
fired ; over went the moose, shot through 
the heart. 

Next day they were all tired, so I went 
off with Michael and Schoisin to look for 
some far -distant tracks in the direction of 
the Matawin lakes. W^e walked on over 
several pretty high ranges of hills. On my 
way I saw a partridge on the ground ; I 
had a shot at it with ball and knocked the 
unfortunate thing all to pieces. Proceeding 
to reload, what was my horror when I found 
all my remaining bullets were too large for 
the bore of my gun ; we had come a long 





way, so I decided to go on, as I had my 
second barrel left. It was not till late in 
the afternoon that we suddenly came upon 
the fresh track of a moose. Away we went ; 
it was a pretty run, first round the base of 
a steep rock, then over a little barren. The 
snow was good and we soon got up to him, 
but I had only one charge. I went on till 
I got round on his flank and pretty close up. 
I waited till I could get a very easy shot, and 
then fired. The moose did not fall at once, 
but after going on slowly for some yards reared 
with his head straight up in the air and rolled 
over dead. He was hit through the heart. 
By this time it was near five o'clock, and 
Michael proposed we should sleep there, but 
I said, " No, I promised to get back and let 
the rest of the party hunt to-morrow, and back 
I will go." After a short consultation, Michael 
said if we left the moose as he was he thought 
we could do it. I took the moufle and hocks, 
tied them to my belt, and set off at once. 

My Indians were beyond their usual hunting 
grounds, so they did not know the country 
well, and they were a little afraid of the Tete 







I i" 





ii' ■ 

de Bull Indians, upon whose territory they 
were trespassing. We had soon to cross a 
high range of hills. Going down the other 
side we found it very steep, and towards the 
bottom we came to a perpendicular ridge of 
rock of very considerable height, clown which 
it was impossible to climb. We had to go 
back up the hill a little way and then walk 
along parallel with the top of the ridge. After 
going some distance we descended again, hop- 
ing to find the obstacle less impracticable, but 
were again disappointed though the ridge was 
not quite so high. A third time we approached 
it and then found it still existing, but the top 
of the rock was not much above the tops of the 
trees below, some of which were pretty close to 
it. It was our last chance, and as the night 
was coming on we determined to try to get 
down by the trees. I first tied my gun to the 
end of my sash and lowered it down as far as 
it would go, and then dropped it on the snow 
beneath. I threw my hocks and moufle down, 
and then selecting a good thick -topped tree 
jumped down into it with my arms out. I 
stuck like a crow in the small branches, but 



after a scramble I managed to get hold of some 
stouter branches and climbed to the bottom 
safely. Michael followed me, and then Schoisin. 
After that we walked on many miles, the night 
getting darker and darker. At length, going 
down a very steep, thick, wooded hill, we saw a 
white space far below us. The Indians had a 
long consultation, which resulted in their telling 
me they thought they knew where they were. 
Michael explained to me that it was not a lake 
we saw but a beaver-dam, and, if he was right, 
by going down the stream running from it we 
should get to the lake we had crossed in the 
morning. So down we went, and sure enough 
it was, as he said, a beaver-dam, though when I 
went through the cat ice at the bottom of it 
up to my neck I fear I reversed the words. 
We had some nasty walking through a cedar 
swamp where the ice was rotten and the 
trees thick ; then we got out, as the Indians 
expected, on to the lake, and eventually found 
our old track of the morning. We had then 
to cross a very high range of hills into the 
valley of the Laquarro and walk down the 
river to our camp. 





} \ 





I observed that my Indians were not as 
lively as usual, and soon after we had com- 
menced ascending the hill, Schoisin sat down 
and said he was "very sick" and could go no 
farther. I asked him if he had got his strike- 
light and axe all right; he said "yes," so we 
left him and went on, but soon poor old Mich^iel 
broke down. I saw that he had all an Indian 
requires, and gave him a biscuit which I had 
remaining and a drop of brandy, and determined 
to go on by myself. There was a good clear 
track and a little moon. By three o'clock in 
the morning I walked proudly into the camp, 
having left the two best Indians in the country 
behind on their backs — it was a great triumph. 

We had one more somewhat serious adven- 
ture during this expedition. One morning we 
all started off together to follow some moose 
tracks, leaving all our things behind in camp. 
We tramped on some miles through the bush, 
but saw no signs of approaching the moose. 
At last Mulgrave and Dickson broke down 
and declared they could go no farther, so I 
asked Schoisin to take them back to the camp, 
and Brook Taylor and I continued. We went 



on and on, but still saw nothing but the old 
hard track. At about four or five o'clock we 
held a consultation as to whether we should 
try to get the deer that night and sleep by him 
or go back, cutting across the shortest way 
and making a good straight track, and then try 
again the following day, carrying up provisions 
for one night. We adopted the second plan 
and turned back. Just as it was beginning to 
get dark we came down on to the head of a 
little lake that we had passed in the morning, 
where we stopped to cut a hole in the ice and 
get some water, and to eat a bit of biscuit. 
We were just putting our axes in our belts and 
going to start on again, when we heard some- 
thing moving in the bush close by ; in another 
minute out came a figure! It staggered to- 
wards us and fell at our feet ; it was Dickson. 
A few moments after out came Mulgrave. 
They stared at us, but could not speak. We 
gave them a drop of brandy we had left. 
They then told us Schoisin had left them and 
they were nearly frozen. I gave Mulgrave 
over to our young half-breed Indian, who, 
between pushing, laughing, and chaffing, got 







• (, 




him l)ack sale to catiii). I tied the ends of 
my long toboggin - thong together, put one 
looped end over Dickson's back, the other 
across my chest, and towed him home. For- 
tunately we found a little fire still smouldering 
in a big log we had left burning, and we soon 
had some hot tea for them, which seemed to 
set them all right again. They told us Schoisin 
had pretended to lose the track, and had left 
them. They had gone round and round the 
lake endeavouring to find their way, but, failing, 
they had sat down dead beat, had given up all 
hope, and felt they were losing consciousness. 
When we came down on the lake they could 
not move, it seemed to them like a dream. 
They heard us preparing to go, then with a 
great effort they staggered out. Had we not 
come back that way and stopped at that spot, 
or even had we been five minutes later, these 
poor fellows would have been lost. Was there 
not Providence in this ? 

One more ludicrous adventure and I have 
done with my happy, happy Canadian hunting 
grounds. I was out with Michael and Schoisin 
when we came across the track of a young calf 



moosL*. I was for leaving it, l)iit Michael per- 
suaded me to follow it, as he said the meat 
would be so good for his old squaw. We ran 
and came up to the little fellow, but he was so 
quick and active that I could not get a shot at 
him. Every time I got on his tlank he turned 
round and dashed off straight from me through 
the bush. At last I thought I had got him 
steady ; I whipped my gun out of its case and 
put on my caps, but, before I could take; a shot, 
off went the little rascal. Thinking he would 
turn again to look at me, I ran on with my gun 
ready to shoot, when, as ill-luck would have it, 
I caught my foot in a branch and went head 
over heels, my two barrels straight into the 
snow. I shouted to the Indians that they 
might have the calf if they could catch him. 
Michael succeeded in hamstringing him, and 
finishing him off by a knock on the head with 
his axe, while I set to work to melt the snow 
out of my gun with my warm hands. It came 
out like two long wax candles. 





! I I 


Return to Canada after long^ leave of absence — Particular 
service — London, Canada West — Lake St. Clair — Steeple- 
chase — A deserter — A crafty detective - — Toronto — 
Ordered to West Indies. 

On my return to Canada in 1842 I was 
employed by Sir Richard Jackson, who had 
succeeded Sir John Colborne, to travel all 
along the frontier on the United States side in 
order to ascertain the state of the sympathisers. 
I was given letters of introduction to the prin- 
cipal officers of the United States Army, whom 
I found very civil and ready to prevent any 
unfriendly movements or feelings against 
Canada. According to my instructions I went 
up to Detroit, and then on to Fort Graciot 
at the bottom of Lake Huron. At the latter 
place I put up al "The Hotel," a dirty pot- 
house, full of very wild-looking roi.ghs. After 
I had gone to bed an old Irishman, who had 



waited on me and given me a good deal of 
information, came up to my room and told me 
1 had better "clear out sharp." I had obtained 
all the information 1 required, so 1 made my 
escape in a waggon which my friend bad pro- 
cured for me. I heard- afterwards that I had 
got into a regular hornet's nest of sympathisers ! 
I then went and joined my regiment at London, 
Canada West. 

At London I had a merry time. Before the 
cold weather set in I made a very successful 
shooting expedition with Lieut' na-its Newland 
and Wyndham. We drov(^ the first 70 miles 
to Chatham in a waggon, then embarked in 
a large log canoe commonly called a dug-out, 
taking plenty of pro\ isions and a large water- 
proof sheet tu use as a tent. We paddled 
down the river Thames by ourselves into the 
Lake St. Clair, then coasted along to the 
centre of the great Chatham swamp, where we 
encami)ecl for twelve days. We got piles of 
duck of every description, black, gray, pintailed, 
wood, widgeon, both blue and green winged 
teal, snipe, etc. The tirst night we had 
rather a scare. We had selected the highest 








mound of sand we could see, and had cut away 
a small patch in the high wild rice on it, and 
made a comfortable camp, having collected 
plenty of drift-wood for the fire. I was in the 
act of cooking our dinner when I saw something 
glittering. I at first thought it was some water 
I had thrown out of a can, but presently it 
increased ! Newland then went to look out 
and called to me, " There's water all round us 
as far as I can see, and it is blowing very hard." 
We held a council, decided to pack all the 
things into the canoe, get into it and wait till 
we were driven away, then take our chance. 
Wyndham and Newland went to get the canoe, 
while I secured the provisions and packed up 
my kettles. To their dism<iy they found the 
water had risen so much that th^ canoe was 
far away in the rising water! However, 
they waded in up to their middles and got 
it up into the camp. We packed the things 
in her, and made a high pile of the drift-wood, 
on which Joe Wyndham and I sat back to back. 
The lot had fallen to Newland to take the first 
watch, so he was to sit in the canoe and call us 
if necessary. Joe and I slept soundly. At last 



we awoke, it was daylight. We called to our 
trusty watchman, but the only reply was a 
deep sonorous snore from the bottom of the 
canoe ! We found the wind had gone down 
and the water had subsided, so we made a good 
breakfast and went in search of a more secure 
camping ground. 

The last n'ght before we left the swamp we 
had a sad adventure. In the middle of the 
night Newland and I were aroused by somebody 
kicking, so I jumped up and found poor Wynd- 
ham in a bad epileptic fit. We did all the little 
we could for him, and at length he gradually 
recovered, but was very sulky. W^e usually went 
out shooting separately in the early morning, 
walking through the high wild rice with the soft 
black mud above our knees. That last morn- 
ing we asked Wyndham to let one of us go with 
him, but he would not hear of it. However, 
Newland and I came back early to breakfast, 
being anxious about our hiend. We waited 
for him a loni^: time, but he did not come At 
last we walked down to the canoe, determined 
to go in search of him. Just as we were about 
to start we heard a splash, splash, splash in 




■' V 




'i ! 

the distance, and guessed it must be him 
wadinjj: back. Before long he made his appear- 
ance out of the forest of wild rice with a com- 
plete kilt of ducks all round him. We always 
carried the ducks we shot with their heads 
tucked over a leather belt we wore round our 
Waists. He had had great sport that morning. 
Our large waterproof sheet made a capital 


camp. One side of it was pegged down over 
a log of wood, the opposite side was caught up 
in the centre and supported by two poles that 
were tied together at the top, forming a tri- 
angular entrance, and the sides were pegged 
down firm to the ground. This gave us plenty 
of room at the back of the camp for our bundles, 
while the front being narrow kept us warm and 
well sheltered. 

'» , 



During our stay in the swamp we had a few 
visitors. One day, while we were out, a large 
bear called and partook of some light refresh- 
ments, but he did not wait to see us. Some 
Canadians followed him down from the distant 
settlements ; they did stay, and asked for the 
ducks we did not want. We were very glad 
to find some use for them ; so off they went to 
their homes, returning next day with some sacks 
and plenty of salt, and we gave them as many 
ducks as they could carry. 

At London we had some very good theatri- 
cals. I had charge of the theatre and painted 
the scenes. There were some nice people 
there, especially the Harrises and Gzowskis. 
Gzowski was a Polish refugee of distinction, 
who had established himself in America as an 
engineer. He was employed in making the 
first plank road in Upper Canada from Toronto 
to London. He was an excellent fellow, with- 
out whom no party was complete. We had a 
pack of hounds, and the horses we purchased 
in the district were first-rate timber jumpers. 

In the following spring we had a great 
military steeple-chase, in which I rode my horse 











" Red Indian." The course was made very 
stiff. We did not care about the timber fences, 
though they were high enough and lots of 
them, but the stewards had made a water jump 
about 8 feet deep and 16 feet wide, with a 
4- foot post and rail-fence on the near side. 
Considering none of our horses had ever tried 
to jump water before, this was rather a stopper. 
The race came off. I reached the fence 
before the water jump third ; there Dick 
Burnaby and his pretty little thoroughbred 
" Fanny " went head over heels, so Joe Wynd- 
ham on "Ugly Francis" was the only man 
before me. I saw him go with a beautiful 
splash into the middle of the water. I raced 
"Red Indian" at it as hard as he could go, 
but feeling him give a slight turn I sent in 
my spurs and gave him two or three sharp 
cuts with my whip as I came up to the fence. 
To my great surprise and infinite delight he 
flew the whole thing like a bird ! Wyndham 
scrambled out and made a gallant attempt to 
get up to me, but I won easily. Alas ! on 
going to the scales I was found a little light. 
I got my bridle and did all that was allowed. 




but could not fairly turn the scales, so the 
stewards declared me "distanced" — a great 
disappointment. However, my friend Joe 
Wyndham got the stakes ; all the other horses 
went into the ditch. 

Later on in 1 843 we got orders to go to the 
West Indies. Very early on the morning of 
our departure I was awakened with the pleasing 
intelligence that my soldier-groom, Morley, had 
deserted on my horse " Red Indian." Another 
officer's servant was also missing. I was of 
course obliged to march with my company, but 
my friend Fisher of the Artillery turned out all 
his gunners to scour the country around, and 
I sent off a very clever detective as well in 
pursuit of the absentees. He soon got on 
their track, and at length found my beautiful 
steeple -chase horse, 75 miles from London, 
struggling in a swamp. 

The detective, hearing my man was well 
ahead of him going towards Windsor, went 
into Chatham, chartered a small steamer, and 
guessing that Morley would be making for 
Detroit in the States, steamed straight for that 
town, hoping to get before him. But, on his 




arrival, he found the deserter had beaten him 
and was safe in the United States. 

The crafty fellow was not to be done yet. 
He knew my groom had left his wife behind 
in London, and might want to send something 
to her, so he told the captain of the steamer 
to hang on to the landing-place with a single 
spring and keep up steam. He then put up 
a notice on the paddle-box, " Will start for 
Chatham at six." Sure enough the bait took ! 
The soldier went down to the steamer, and 
seeing the detective on the gangway took him 
for the captain, and asked if he would tdke a 
letter for him over to Chatham and send it on 
to London. " Oh yes," said he, and after a 
little conversation invited him to go down to the 
bar and "liquor up," at the same time giving 
a signal to the captain. While enjoying their 
drink the steamer began to move ; the soldier 
was terribly alarmed, but quieted down again 
on being told they were only going to the next 
wharf to get some wood, and they went on 
with their drink. As soon as the steamer had 
paddled half-way across the river, the detective 
put his hand on the deserter's shoulder, and 



said, "Your name is Morley, of the Royals; 
we are in British water now, and you are my 
prisoner ! " He was sent to Toronto and tried 
and convicted of desertion, but I lost my poor 
horse and an excellent groom. 

There was a well'known young billiard 
player in the 32nd Light Infantry named Bob 
Campbell. He was also a great acrobat. 
Master Bob was a very deceptive young 
gentleman ; he looked quite a simple boy at 
that time, but he knew a thing or two. He 
often went down on professional (}) trips into 
the United States, and always returned with 
his pocket full of dollars. 

One day while quartered at Toronto he 
had been over to Hamilton, and, returning by 
land, stopped at an inn about half-way. He 
there fell in with a Yankee clockmaker, who 
had a waggon full of clocks and a good span 
of horses. They dined together, and then the 
clockmaker proposed a game of billiards, con- 
sidering himself a very good player. Bob 
consented, saying he was not much of a hand 
but he would try. Sam Slick won the first 
game, and thought he could give Bob some 

' ii 




- •- 

■ ]i\ 

if' '• 



points but didn't. Bob just won the second 
game by a blundering fluke, so they went on 
till somehow or other Bob had got all Sam's 
money in his pocket. The Yankee got very 
hot about it ; he guessed he could beat him 
easy if it wasn't for the flukes, and he offered 
to play for his clocks against the money Bob 
had won. The clocks soon passed over into 
British possession. They then played for the 
waggon and the horses. Finally Sam Slick, 
pluck to the backbone and still confident, 
staked his broad-brimmed hat and coat. Bob 
won them, and, putting them on in place of 
his own, which he presented to his friend 
Sam, mounted the waggon and drove into 
barracks in triumph, to the immense amuse- 
ment of the whole garrison. 

In the course of my wanderings I had to 
pass through a part of the United States where 
the roads, at that time, were very rough ; in 
fact, little more than tracks across the plain. I 
travelled in a large "stage," a heavy vehicle, 
the body of which was hung on two strong 
leather straps. It carried nine passengers in- 
side on three seats ; the centre seat being very 





unstable, the occupants were not unfrequently 
tossed into the laps of the passengers in front 
of them, or sent head-over-heels on to those 
behind them. 

One day we came to a good - sized river 
which we had to cross by a ferry. The boat 
was a large "scow" or barge, with a rough 
board deck or platform on it, with some poles 
lashed along the far side to prevent the coach 
and horses going overboard when embarking. 
There was a high bank on the side of the river ; 
the boat was made fast underneath it, but there 
was no way down nor any wharf. 

Our driver, a tall hard-looking Yankee with 
a broad-brimmed hat, gave us no time to think, 
but drove straight up to the edge of the 
bank, hauled in his leaders alongside of the 
wheelers, and shouted out, "Sit fast, gents." 
The ground gave way and down we went with 
a tremendous clatter and crash — earth, coach, 
horses, passengers, and all — on to the deck of 
the crazy craft. We rolled and swung about 
most alarmingly for a few minutes, " Broad 
Brim " holding on tight by the horses, till at 
length the boat became more tranquil ; he then 



. yu. - 





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(716) 872-4503 











1 68 


quietly remarked, "Wull, strangers, I guess 
we've done it this time, last week we went 
over and there were three men drowned ! " 

From Toronto we went on to Kingston in 
a large lake steamer. There we were tran- 
shipped into a small high -pressure steamer 
called a " puffer " and two bateaux or Durham 
boats, one lashed on each side of her. In 
this uncomfortable accommodation we pro- 
ceeded down the St. Lawrence. 

We passed through the lake of the thousand 
islands, shot the Longsault and Cascade rapids, 
and then arrived at the head of the great 
Lachine rapid. There we had to join our men 
in the bateaux, and the captain of the steamer 
cast us off, not daring to go down this most 
dangerous channel with us lashed to his sides. 
Each boat had an Indian pilot. The men 
had to go below, but the officers sat on 

The steamer went first into the fearful 
turmoil of waters. We followed after, one 
behind the other. All the pilots could do 
was to keep the bateaux with their heads 
straight down the stream, for which purpose 





the boats were provided with long rudders ; 
the roaring rapid took charge of the locomotive 
department, while we held fast and did nothing 
but thought a good deal. We whirled down 
at a terrific pace, sometimes lost to view 
between the mighty billows, then thrown up 
in the air with a fine view of the country 
round. A short distance from the top of the 
rapid, we passed a bateau laden with barrels of 
flour that had been wrecked on the rocks the 
previous day. 

We were fortunate enough to get through 
the rapid and safe to Montreal. There we 
were again transhipped into one of the large 
river steamers and proceeded to Quebec. 

After a short stay in the Jesuit barracks, 
our transport arrived. It was an early season ; 
the winter had set in, and the river was full 
of ice. 



Embark in transport Premier — Wrecked at Cape 
Chatte — Land ing. 

On Sunday the 29th October I embarked with 
the headquarters and right wing of the Royal 
Regiment on board the pretty little transport 
the Premier, 

The officers of the Royal Regiment who 
embarked were — 

Major Bennett (commanding), Captain Davenport, 
Lieutenant and Adjutant Wetherall, Lieutenant Whitmore 
(acting paymaster), Lieutenant Lysons, Lieutenant (lore, 
Lieutenant Vansittart, Ensign Waddilove, and Surgeon 

The only lady was Mrs. Bennett. 

On the 30th we got under weigh and sailed 
down the St. Lawrence. On the 3rd November 
at about mid-day we were off Green Island, 
where the pilot left us. In the afternoon it 
came on to blow very hard, and at night the 



wind increased to a heavy gale from the north, 
with thick snow. Captain New steered for 
Point de Monts on the north shore, and when 
he thought he was abreast of it changed his 
course to east half south, intending to stand 
out down the gulf and pass south of Anticosta. 

During the night the wind drew round more 
towards the east, and the snow continued to 
fall heavily when, at about two or three in the 
morning of the 4th, the ship struck. The first 
shock was slight, just enough to awake us, but 
the second was a tremendous crash that sent 
Wetherall — who was above me — head over 
heels out of his berth. We slipped on some 
clothes and were soon out on deck. The 
snow was still falling fast, and every sea v/as 
breaking over the ship as she crashed and 
banged upon the rocks. 

The captain gave orders for the gun to be 
fired, but the ship's powder was damp, so I 
got my powder-flask from my cabin and placed 
Ensign Waddilove close by the gun, with a 
lighted cigar in his mouth. After many in- 
effectual attempts, we at last succeeded in 
getting the gun to go off, and then continued 



to fire at intervals, the cigar proving to be an 
excellent slow match, though Waddilove did 
not find its flavour improved by its novel 
application. We also burned blue lights, but 
no reply came from any side nor could any- 
thing be seen through the darkness of the 

About- an hour after the ship first struck 
the captain ordered the masts to be cut away, 
which was soon done with an axe and a meat- 
saw, all that could be found. The sailors — 
excepi the two mates, the carpenter, and one 
man — had disappeared. 

Ned Wetherall and I went below to see 
how the men were getting on ; we found them 
quite quiet. The women were sobbing and 
their children were clinging round them, while 
husbands were endeavouring to cheer their 
wives with hopes they could not entertain 
themselves, but all were quiet and resigned. 

After a while, the ship seemed to settle over 
with a strong list to starboard, and she became 
more steady. At the same time it was reported 
thctt the water was gaining the main-deck. 

At length the daylight came, and we could 



see through the haze a white line of snow along 
the shore about half a mile off. A little later 
we made out two or three huts or houses, which 
showed us there were inhabitants near. 

Our first object was to get a rope on shore, 
but we found the masts and all the spars float- 
ing under the lee side of the ship and attached 
to her by the rigging, so that it was impossible 
to launch a boat. It took us a long time to 
clear away the wreckage, for the deck and fore- 
castle were covered with ice and all the ropes 
were frozen. Moreover, the chain rigging, of 
which there was a good deal, was so jammed 
that we had great difficulty in getting it clear. 
When this was done, the first mate tried 
to get the gig down, but it was dashed to 
pieces. We then turned the cutter over and 
got her down on deck ; but, as we had no 
masts or yards from which to hoist her over- 
board, we had to cut away a part of the 
bulwarks and then succeeded in launching her 
into the sea. The first mate and I, with three 
sailors, lowered ourselves down by a rope into 
her, and we took a coil of line with us, which 
was made fast to another line coiled on the 








deck of the ship. W'e let go and pulled 
steadily for the shore, the first mate paying 
out the line from the stern. 

The sea was very high, and we found the 
tide was running across between the ship and 
the shore. We soon let out all our line, and, 
holding fast by it, were swung round broadside 
on to the sea. We hallooed to those in the 
ship to pay out, and in another minute we 
were free. We then got the boat's head round 
again. We had hardly done so when a huge 
breaker came towering over her stern, broke 
into her, and turned her over like a nutshell ! 
I was thrown clear of her and struck out for 
the shore, each breaker burying me deep in 
the water. At last I felt the ground under 
my feet, but the back current was so strong that 
I could not stand against it, and was carried 
down to be buried again in the seething water. 
Again and again this happened, but the fourth 
time I was washed higher on the beach, and 
succeeded in holding on till the force of the 
receding wave had passed me. I then scram- 
bled up the sand. The next breaker caught 
me, but I was high enough to be able to with- 


;i ' 




Stand it, and as it receded some Canadians ran 
down and carried me up into safety, though 
considerably exhausted. My companions were 
all saved. The boat was also washed up, but 
;vas stove in ; and, what was worse, we found 
the rope was no longer connected with the 
ship. J learned afterwards that they had got 
it foul on board, and Wetherall, seeing our 
dangerous position in the trough of the sea, 
had cut it adrift with an axe to save us. 

I learned from the Canadians that we were 
in Chatte Bay, and that the ship was on a 
bank of sand. They said she must have 
struck on the rocks running out from Cape 
Chatte, and afterwards have beaten over them 
and drifted into the bay. They informed me 
that there were three families there, and some 
lower down at St. Anne's, but that there was 
no road or track connecting their settlement 
with any other place ; their only means of 
communication being in their schooners in the 
summer, and they were all laid up for the 

1 asked for the principal inhabitant, when 
a man named Louis Roy came forward and 





told me he was a magistrate. I begged him 
to collect all the men he could and try to 
bring some boats over the land to the beach 
opposite the wreck. He went to work with 
a will, and by about eleven o'clock he had some 
thirty men and two large whale-boats ready 
for work ; but to launch the boats through the 
surf was evidently impossible, and every effort 
to send a rope from the ship had failed. 

We wrote on a board, " Kkkp Out," then 
on a larger board, " No Rocks, Wait till 
Sea goes down." This they made out on the 
ship with their telescopes. 

About mid-day the storm somewhat abated, 
and the tide being low our friends managed 
to launch the long boat. Profiting by experi- 
ence they coiled plenty of rope in her, and 
had plenty carefully coiled on the deck of the 
transport. The second mate and four men 
then pushed off and pulled stern foremost for 
the shore, keeping the bow of the boat to the 
sea ; fortunately there was no cross current, and 
she came straight towards us. As she touched 
the beach she was capsized, but the men got 
safe on shore, and we got hold of the line. 








We then made fast the rope to the stem 
of one of the whale-boats, and another, which 
we had ready coiled on shore, to her stern, 
and signalled to those on board the wreck to 
haul out, which they did, and the light boat 
bounded away over the waves and reached 
the side of the ship in safety. She was soon 
loaded with women and children and Ensign 
Vansittart, with the colours of the regiment. 
As the sea was still running very high this 
loading was a matter of difficulty, for at one 
moment the boat was thrown up nearly level 
with the deck of the ship, and at the next 
she fell 10 or 15 feet below it in the hollow of 
the wave. 

Lieutenant Wetherall undertook this work, 
and effected it in a most successful manner. 
Two men were first got into the boat, then 
each woman in succession was made to hang 
backwards over the side of the ship, holding 
on by two man ropes, with large Turk's head 
knots at the ends, one in each hand. Wetherall 
watched the boat, and as soon as he saw it rise 
close under the woman he said, " Let go," and 
she fell into the arms of the two men below. 

IVKI'XK OF 77/A "/'A'A ;»///•; A'" 


The children were tied up five or six together 
in blankets, like dumplings, and lowered into 
the boat. 

The next difficulty was to get this precious 
cargo on shore. On a signal from the wreck, 
we hauled on our rope, and the boat, though 
pretty deep in the water, came gliding towards 
us, sometimes lost to view and sometimes 
thrown aloft on the crest of a wave. Still 
onward she came in safety, till at length, rushing 
forward on the last breaking billow, she struck 
on the beach and over she went, sending 
women, children, colours, Vansittart, and all 
into the foaming water. In a moment we 
dashed into the sea, and succeeded in carrying 
them all safe, but very wet, high on shore. 

The Canadians had brought some carts down, 
and took the wet and shivering creatures off 
to their cottages to dry and warm themselves. 
In loading the carts a little difficulty arose, as 
the women could not be persuaded to take the 
children as they came when unpacked from the 
bundles, and sort them at the cottages, but 
each woman insisted on having her own Bobby 
or Biddy immediately restored to her. 





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We saw that to prevent the boats being 
upset as they reached the shore was impossible, 
so we worked on as we had commenced. After 
a while we got a second rope from the ship 
and plied two boats at a time. Later in the 
day one of the whale-boats was stove in and 
went down alongside the ship. We then got 
the heavy long boat to work, and soon after 
dark our labours were rewarded by seeing 
every soul safe on shore. 

Mrs. Bennett, the wife of Major Bennett, our 
commanding officer, displayed great heroism, 
having expressed her wish to be the last 
woman to go on shore. She was put into the 
stern cabin, and told to sit there quietly till she 
was called for. It happened that the rudder 
had been carried away and remained hanging 
to the preventer chains. With every suc- 
ceeding wave the rudder struck violently 
against the counter of the ship, just under the 
place were the poor lady was sitting. She was 
fully persuaded in her mind that it was a rock, 
and expected every moment to see it crashing 
through the side of the vessel. Still there she 
sat without saying a word till she was called. 



I I! 



The sea having gone down, the captain 
decided to sleep on board his ship that night ; 
but the naval agent came on shore and insisted 
on bringing a good deal of baggage, which he 
called Government stores, but which looked 
much more like his own cabin furniture. There 
was one bundle that he was very solicitous 
about, declaring it was the Government chrono- 
meter. One of our youngsters took the liberty 
of peeping into the bundle as they were crossing 
a small stream in a boat to Roy's house, and 
saw that the article in it was certainly crockery, 
and had a suspicious - looking handle. It 
became a standing joke in our regiment, and 
similar articles were ever after called Govern- 
ment chronometers. 

I slept that night at Louis Roy's hut, where 
Major Bennett with his wife and staff had 
established themselves. Next morning, at the 
Major's request I started with despatches for 


Journey to Quebec — Briigup Royals to Quebec in Unicorn — 
Mentioned in despatches — Promoted Captain — New 
York — Voyage home — An honest man. 

I LEFT Chatte Bay at eight o'clock on the 
morning of the 5th November. I had 300 
miles to go, the first 75 without any road. 
Roy shook his head and said I could 
not do it, others gave me seven or eight 
days to get up. About 2 miles above 
Chatte I found the bark Java, which had been 
sailing in company with us the previous day, 
wrecked on the rocks. Her crew had saved 
themselves by a rope from the rigging ; she 
was close to the shore. I slept out on the 
rocks the first night for a short time, and as 
soon as the moon was well up I went on round 
the rocky cliffs called by the inhabitants " Les 
Crapauds." With me I had two boys, who had 
volunteered to guide me round them. There 




was about 6 miles of scrambling over rocks, 
but I did not find the great difficulties I had 
been told of. After that I walked on along 
the shore, which was bad walking over large 
shingle ; but my principal difficulty was getting 
across the numerous small rivers which were 
frozen over but not strong enough to bear. I 
found the best way to cross them was to wade 
out into the sea where there was usually a 
bar not very deep. One larger river I found 
too deep for me ; I got in over my middle 
and then turned back. I then walked the 

stream into the bush, where I foui.^ a tree 
blown down across it, and by this I got over. 

I reached the first settlement. Little Matan, 
and walked on to Great Matan. There a 
Mr. Grant put me across the river, and I went 
to the house of a Mr. Frazer, where I got two 
or three hours' sleep till the tide went down, 
as the only road up the St. Lawrence was along 
the beach at low water. 

Very early on the third morning Mr. Grant 
took me in a light car t round the bays. We got 
on pretty well, but at all the headlands we had 
pretty nearly to carry the cart over the rocks. 



At the end of about 24 miles we came to 
the first house in Metis. At a Mr. Brooks's 
I got some bread and cheese and a sleigh, 
which took me on 7 miles to Great Metis, 
where I met Mr. Grant's brother and a Mr. 
Jenkins, who gave me a note to his wife at 
Rimouski, and got some men to take me across 
the river in a small boat. I reached the 
opposite side just after it got dark, and walked 
on by myself. 

I tried at several cottages to get some 
conveyance, and at last found a man to take 
me on in a common wood traineau, with a 
colt that had never before been in harness. 
As soon as he was on the road he ran away, 
but fortunately it was the rigl.t way. At the 
end of about 4 miles we pulled up in front 
of a farmhouse, where there was a wedding 
party going on and everybody was more or 
less drunk. However, 1 succeeded in per- 
suading a man to bring out his cariole and 
drive me on to Rimouski, about 24 miles. 
I arrived there very late at night, and went to 
Mrs. Jenkins's house. She was extremely kind 
to me, and gave? me some supper and a bed. 



I agreed with a Mr. Bourshea to take me 
on to Riviere-du-Loup for ten dollars, and in 
the morning as soon as daylight began to 
appear I went down in his cariole to cross the 
great Rimouski river, which was very full of 
ice in large fields. We drove on board the 
ferry-boat, a flat-bottomed scow, Mr. Bourshea 
telling me to sit still — that his horse, a fine 
black animal, was quiet and used to crossing. 

The current was strong, but we dodged 
about round the fields of ice and got across. 
Just as we were coming up to a rock covered 
with snow, on which we had to land, the horse 
took fright and backed over the stern of the 
scow into the water. I had just time to spring 
forward and vault into the scow, and then I 
saw our beautiful horse swimming back across 
the river to the opposite side, with the sleigh 
floating behind him. I landed, and sent the 
driver back after his horse and cariole ; it was 
an hour and a half before he returned, and then 
his poor horse was so done up he could hardly 
get along at all. 

We reached Bic, then baited, and went on 
to Caccouna, where I had to hire a fresh horse. 



I arrived at Riviere-du-Loup about nine o'clock 
that evening, got a fresh horse and sleigh, and 
travelled on through the night. At Riviere 
Quelle I changed sleigh again, also at St. Jean, 
and arrived at Berthier at three o'clock in the 
afternoon. There I found a small steamer, the 
Neiv Liverpool, just starting for Quebec, so I 
embarked in her and arrived at my journey's 
end at eight o'clock, — exactly four days and a 
half from Cape Chatte. 

I drove up at once to General Sir James 
Hope, commanding at Quebec. I found him 
at dinner, and Colonel Pritchard, the Assistant 
Adjutant-General, dining with him ; he sent at 
once for Captain Boxer, the harbour master. 
The steamer Unicorn was still waiting to take 
her last mail to Halifax ; no one could detain 
her except the Governor-General, and he was at 
Montreal. We then sent for Captain Douglas, 
the captain of the Unicorn. He was quite 
willing, but said he could not move without 
orders from the Postmaster - General, Mr. 
Stainer ; so we sent off for him, but when he 
arrived he told us he had no power whatever, 
and was expecting his mails hourly. After a 







short conversation, he said, "Gentlemen, I 
think the best thing I can do is to go home 
to bed," giving us a significant smile as he 

Sir James Hope, Boxer, and Douglas then 
agreed to take the responsibility on their own 
shoulders, and send the steamer down. The 
whole town turned out to help us. Blankets, 
biscuits, pork, etc., were rolled out of the 
stores into the steamer without requisition, 
and by three o'clock in the morning I was off 
again down the St. Lawrence in the Unicorn, 
old Boxer with me. What a sleep I had ! 

All the day and next night we steamed 
down the river, and early on the morning of 
the seventh day from my starting we astonished 
our friends by firing a gun in Chatte Bay. 

In a moment the whole population of the 
bay was astir. Every boat on the shore and in 
the ship was called into requisition, and by about 
four or five o'clock in the afternoon, just as 
the wind veered round to the north-east again 
and came on to blow, we got our last load on 
board, and steamed off for Quebec, leaving 
Lieutenant Gore and a small party to look 



after any property that might be recovered 
from the ship. 

There was a quantity of ice in the river, and 
a number of schooners beating down to get 
home for the winter, but we had to crash on 
under full steam, dark and foggy as it was. 
Fortunately we only ran into one schooner, and 
carried off her head -sails, jib-boom, and bow- 
sprit ; she, on her part, taking a boat off our 
sponson and several men's bearskin caps. 

We arrived at the Queen's wharf in the 
evening of the 13th November, and were 
received bv the inhabitants of the town of 
Quebec and the 68th Light Infantry with the 
greatest hospitality and kindness. 

The following District Order was issued by 
Sir James Hope : — 

Assistant Adjutant-Gknerai.'s Office, 
QuEUEC, \i,th November 1843. 

District Order. 

Major-General Sir James Hope has ordered the garrison 
of Quebec to be assembled, that he may have the satisfac- 
tion of personally expressing to the troops by this order his 
entire and perfect approbation of the admirable conduct of 
the right wing of the Royal Regiment under the most 
trying circumstances. 





There is no regiment in Her Majesty's service that has 
more distinguished itself than the Royals have done ; but 
good conduct in the presence of the enemy is so common 
an occurrence with British soldiers, when the excitement to 
gallant conduct is at its height, that the Major-C.eneral 
would not think it necessary to advert to what is now well 
known. On this occasion, however, the distressing con- 
dition of the men during the peril of shipwreck is calculated 
to call for that cool and resigned intrepidity which has been 
shown on this occasion ; and nothing proves the credit that 
is due to the officer in command, and the whole of the 
officers and non-commissioned officers, more tlian that such 
a state of discipline has been established in a corps as to 
command the confidence of the men under their command 
in a situation requiring every quality of a brave man. 

The Duke of Wellington, in a late circular letter, has 
shown how greatly he values the discipline and intrepidity 
that is required on such occasions, and his Grace will, 
without doubt, duly estimate the conduct of the right wing 
of the Royal Regiment. 

The Major-General is sure that every man who so pro- 
videntially escaped from the late calamity is fully impressed 
with the zealous, prompt, and important services rendered 
to them by Captain Boxer of the navy. At his request 
Captain Boxer has attended this parade, and the Major- 
General is happy in having an opportunity of returning him 
thanks in presence of the garrison, and of stating that to 
his exertions, aided by the zeal of Captain Douglas of the 
Unicorn, the Royal Regiment owe their escape from the long 
and dreary winter, passed on an exposed and inclement 
part of the coast. 



This Order is to be entered in the Order-Hook, and read 
at the head of every regiment in the Eastern District of 
Canada ; and the Major - ( ieneral requests that Major 
Bennett, who commanded the wing on this occasion with 
so much ability and credit to himself, will enter the name 
of every officer and non-commissioned officer present, and 
will record the journey of 300 miles performed with such 
perseverance by lieutenant I.ysons. 

J. A. HoPK, Major- General. 

A long report of the wreck, together with 
this District Order, was sent home to the Duke 
of Wellington, then Commander-in-Chief, and 
by return of mail I was promoted to a company 
in the 3rd West India Regiment. With great 
regret I bade adieu to my old regiment and 
friends, and left Quebec for England. 

I travelled up to Montreal in a stage-sleigh. 
The roads on this part of our journey were 
infamous ; every now and then we came to a 
hundred or two of "cahots" in succession. 
These were heaps of hard snow formed by the 
French Canadian " traineaux " or wood sleighs. 
The country people were so fond of this style 
of sleigh that for a long time nothing would 
induce them to make any change. I met 
numbers of friends there, and was much feted. 


1 ■ , 

I \ 



From Montreal I went on in a larger and more 
commodious stage-sleigh in company with Dr. 
Dartnell and Mr. Timmings. 82nd Regiment, 
down into the United vStates to Albany. There 
we found the trains still running to New Haven, 
and we went on by that route. 



As the snow was very deep we were 
obliged to have two powerful locomotives, 
which the Yankees called Bullgines, and a large 
plough to force our way along. Half-way to 
New Haven we came up to the people who 
had started the previous day ; their train had 



run off the line, and the passengers had burned 
nearly all the carriages and wooden fencing 
they could find to keep themselves from freez- 
ing. We took them on with us. 

At New Haven we found our steamer, but 
the ice was thick all across the mouth of the 
river, and sleighs were driving over on it. 
Nevertheless, the captain said '* he guessed 
he was going," and so he did. He charged 
the ice over and over again ; the timbers 
split and cracked, and the floats of the paddles 
broke and flew all about the place, but at last 
he did get through. He then sent below to 
see what water we were making, and, after 
remarking that he thought he could keep her 
afloat till we got to New York, away we 
steamed. Late at night we arrived at our 
journey's end safe. 

We went to Howard's hotel, where we met 
with great civility. Next morning we went 
down to the wharf, and took our berths in a fine 
sailing liner, The Rochester, Captain Bretain. 

A young Scotchman had travelled all the 
way from Montreal with us, who appeared a 
very quiet, simple-minded fellow. He followed 


1 1 

If.. [. 




1 ' 

I ^ 





US to Howard's hotel and stuck to us every- 
where, as if afraid to be left alone, and I saw 
him on the liner when we took our berths. 

On our return to the hotel, he came up 
very bashfully and confided to me his little 
story and his woes, — saying he had come out to 
settle in Canada, had set up a small grocer's 
shop in Montreal, and had lately married a wife. 
Seeing advertisements of cheap passages to 
Liverpool he had come to New York, intending 
to cross the Atlantic in order to make arrange- 
ments for purchasing goods for his business. 
He had found the advertisements were frauds ; 
his money was already gone, and he had 
nothing left to take him on or back ; finally, 
after much hesitation, he asked me to lend him 
^^25. This was rather a startler for a young 
man who had precious few pounds to spare, 
but somehow or other I thought he was an 
honest man, and I lent him the money. We 
had a boisterous passage, and I never saw the 
young Scotchman, who was in the steerage, till 
the day before we landed, when he came aft to 
me and said, simply, " I can never forget your 
kindness to me, sir. Will you please give me 



your address for the next two or three days?" 
I did so, and he then gave me his name — 
Gilbert Hazel — and told me his father was 
Provost of Ayr. 

I went to Leamington to see my mother and 
sister, then to London, where, on my arrival 
at the Army and Navy Club, I found the 
following note with a cheque for £2^ and 
interest for one month : — 

Glasgow, g/Zt April 1844. 
Captain I.ysons, 

Sir — I should have remitted this sooner but, on 
account of your address going amissing, I forgot wheje I 
had placed it. — I remain, your obedient servant, 

G. Hazel. 

At any rate there was one honest man in 
the country. 

I went at once to see Lord Fitzroy Somer- 
set. He received me with great kindness, and 
told me he was sorry there was no other 
vacancy going at the time but one in the West 
India Regiment, and that the Duke insisted on 
a company being sent to me by return of post. 
He recommended me to join, and trust to him. 
He kindly gave me letters of introduction to 
General Middlemore at Barbadoes. 






Voyage to West Indies — Friends at Barbadoes — Tobago and 


After my interview with Lord Fitzroy Somer- 
set, I made up my mind to go at once to the 
West Indies and join my sable corps. 

I went down accordingly and embarked on 
board the steamship Forth at Southampton 
and sailed for Barbadoes. I made great friends 
with the captain and chief officer of the ship, 
who were very kind to me, and we had a 
pleasant voyage, touching at Madeira. 

As soon as our ship was anchored off 
Funchal we were surrounded by boats full of 
people with things to sell, principally canaries 
in little bamboo cages, which they sold for a 
mere song. Both men and women wore 
curious little pointed caps, that looked like 
horns, made of cloth. This head-dress was 



ull of 
for a 

considered so essential that many women, 
although they had ordinary hats or bonnets, 
nevertheless managed to stick the little horn 
somewhere on their heads in addition. I am 
told that the pretty songsters are no longer to 
be found in Madeira, and that the picturesque 
horn has disappeared. 

On my arrival at Barbadoes early in May, 
I was kindly received by my old friends 
Granville, Willoughby, etc., of the 23rd Royal 
Welch Fusiliers. The day following my arrival 
I was sent off in the Eagle steamer to take 
command of the troops at Tobago. 

There again I fell amongst friends. Sir 
Thomas Erskine was in command of a 
company of the 71st Highland Light Infantry, 
and Lieutenant Mackie, a charming young 
gunner, and several other nice officers were in 
the garrison. 

The steamer touched at Courland Bay, at 
the back of the island. It was a dismal place, 
full of sharks, pelicans, and gulls. While 
waiting to go on shore, I was much amused at 
the pelicans fishing. Every now and then one 
of them popped his head down, and almost 

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invariably caught a fish, which he held in the 
middle with the end of his long bill ; but he 
could not swallow the dainty morsel without 
throwing his beak straight up in the air, 
opening it, and letting the fish fall into his 
great bag. The moment he raised his head 
all the gulls flew at him, and generally 
succeeded either in taking away the fish 
or knocking it into the water. The poor 
pelicans did not get one in ten of their 
fish, though they were very cunning and full 
of dodges. 

Some little while after I had been at 
Tobago, Lieutenant Conolly was sent there. 
He had to land, as I had done, at Courland 
Bay. He had taken his pony with him, and 
there were no means of landing it except by 
slinging it overboard into the water and leaving 
it to swim on shore ; this they had often done 
before. The captain took the precaution of 
paddling round the bay first, to frighten away 
the sharks, then the pony was sent overboard. 
He struck out gallantly for the shore, but 
before he got half-way he appeared to be in 
trouble. A boat was sent to his assistance, but 



\\ I 

before he got to the beach a shark had taken 
off one of his legs. 

I found two black companies of my regiment 
at Tobago, and one of the 71st. I had some 
curious experiences with my men. It was the 
custom there for the commanding officer to visit 
the barracks the first Sunday in every month at 
the dinner-hour. Accordingly on that day I 
went, with all the officers, first to my black 
men's barracks. I found them all standing up 
at "attention" round their tables, buttoned up 
to the throat in shell-jackets, with their soup 
before them in their mess-tins. I was told I 
was to ask them if the dinners were good. 
I did so, and by signal from the white 
Sergeant - Major they answered in chorus, 
" Yea, yea, yea." I left them to go to the 
71st barracks, but when about half-way there 
I turned back and said to the white Sergeant- 
Major, " I want to have another look at 
your men " ; on which he got into an awful 
state of mind, and almost on his knees 
begged me not to go. However, I persisted, 
and would not let him go on before me. 
On entering, what a sight was there ! The 



forms were knocked over, the men had thrown 
off their jackets and shirts ; they were all 
on the ground fighting and growling over 
their dinners like dogs, half the soup thrown 
about the Hoor ! 

On seeing me they all jumped up, and there 
was terrible consternation. The Sergeant - 
Major evidently wished there was a big hole 
somewhere that he could jump into. I said 
nothing, but simply told a good-looking young 
corporal and a man to put on their jackets 
and caps and follow me. We then went on 
to the 71st. Their room was beautifully 
arranged, everything in its place and as clean 
as clean could be. They were eating their 
dinners on nice white plates, with white bowls 
for their soup. They had clean shirts on, and 
their shell-jackets thrown open. By my order 
they remained seated, and looked the picture 
of comfort. I talked to them about their 
rations and quarters, my two black men and 
white Sergeant- Major standing behind at 
"attention" all the time, with their eyes very 
wide open. After complimenting Sir Thomas 
Erskine on the cleanliness and order of his 



I - ' 

1 ^j ■ 







company, I turned to my sable gentlemen and 
said, " You see how Buckra men do?" "Yea, 
yea, yea. " " You go do same." Next time I 
visited the barracks I found my black men's 
quarters beautifully clean. The men were all 
sitting round their tables in clean shirts with 
their jackets open, eating out of white plates 
and basins, everything exactly like the 71st, 
and all looking pleased as Punch, as though 
it was the best joke they had ever heard of. 
From that time I could do anything with them, 
they almost worshipped me ; and, years after I 
left them, I heard they still called themselves 
the Buckra companies and carried on the same 

The people of Tobago claim it to have 
been the original Robinson Crusoe's island, 
and certainly it answers the description well. 
The lower end of th*^ island is flat and has 
a cave in it near the sea, the upper end is 
high and also has a cave ; they are both called 
Robinson Crusoe's caves. Moreover, you see 
distant land from it, whence Indians not 
unfrequently come over in their canoes. This 
land is " Trinidad." 



I took a panorama from our heights, and 
Sir Thomas Erskine used to sit by me smoking 
his pipe while I was at work. He always 
declares to the present day that he drew the 
best part of the picture. 

About six weeks after I arrived at Tobago, 
I received a letter informing me that I had 
been transferred to the 23rd Royal Welch 
Fusiliers, and as soon as an officer v.'as sent 
to relieve me I went up to join my new corps 
at Barbadoes. It was a fortunate transfer for 
me, as it took me amongst friends I had known 
for some years. 

I did not remain long there, for the head- 
quarters of my new regiment were sent to 
Trinidad, and I was sent on detachment with 
two companies to Grenada, a beautiful island, 
but it boasted of very few white inhabitants. 
We relieved two companies of the 71st 
Highland Light Infantry. One of their 
officers remained behind with us, sick with 
yellow fever. We did all we could for him, 
but he died the following day. We lost many 
men afterwards from this dreadful disease, 
and a good many from pulmonary complaints. 


One poor fellow, who was given over by 
the doctors and supposed to be dead, was 
measured for his cofhn, and the coffin was 
made. In those hot climates there is no time 
to be lost. The man, however, disappointed 
the doctors and recovered. Then came the 
question, who was to pay for the coffin .-* It 
was charged to the man, but he refused to 
sign his accounts with this charge against him, 
saying he had not ordered the coffin and did 
not want it. At last a compromise was arrived 
at. The man agreed to pay, provided he was 
allowed to have the coffin ; so it was given 
him, and he stuck it up on end by his bed in 
his barrack- room, fitted it up with shelves, 
and kept his things in it all the time we were 
at Grenada. 

One morning I happened to go into the 
hospital, and found the sergeant and an orderly 
trying to hold a fine young artilleryman down 
on his bed. He was raving violently, and 
wasT too strong for his attendants, so I had 
to go to their assistance. The poor fellow 
was stark naked and as yellow as a guinea. 
After many days' illness he recovered and 






J M, 






went to his duty. Shortly after, he had a 
second attack quite as bad as the first, but, 
wonderful to relate, he again recovered. He 
was then invalided home, but after arriv- 
ing in England the poor fellow died of con- 

I rode all over the island, usually accom- 
panied by Conolly, and made many sketches. 
Lieutenant Gallway,^ Royal Engineers, was 
my great companion in the artistic line. 

After commanding the detachment at 
Grenada for about three months, I was 
appointed Brigade- Major at Barbadoes, and 
went there to take up my duties. I had a 
charming house on the side of the "savannah," 
with the garrison theatre at the back of my 
garden and the racecourse in front of it. 

I rode many races, and was very fortunate 
on a horse named " Highlander," belonging to 
Captain Wellesley. 

The hurricane months in Barbadoes are July, 
August, and September. Respecting these the 
" Bims " or Barbadians have a saying : — 

1 Afterwards General Sir Thomas Gallway, Governor of 



ing to 

;rnor of 

July — stand by, 
August — you must, 
September — remember 
October — all over 1 

In my second year at that island we had 
a small, or as it was called a young, hurricane. 
The sky became dark and slate-coloured, the 
morning was heavy, close, and portentous. We 
felt that something was coming, ai 1 we all 
put up our hurricane-shutters and oj cd our 
cellar doors in case of extreme danger. There 
are glass windows only on the windward side 
of houses in the West Indies ; on the leeward 
side there are only Venetian blinds, and that 
is the side on which the shutters are required, 
as hurricanes always come up from leeward. 

We were not long kept in suspense. A 
very heavy gale soon sprang up from leeward, 
and the sea ran very high. 

Captain Hare of the Royal Fusiliers and 
I had joined in the purchase of a small yacht, 
which was anchored in a corner of the bay. 
All we ever saw of her after the gale was a 
piece of her keel ! The ships in the bay were 
all driven ashore, one being driven clean over 


'■ 111 



tj t i 







the breakwater into the inner harbour. It 
did not, however, turn out to be a really bad 

In the afternoon I went down to the sea- 
shore. The big waves were breaking heavily 
on the beach, and, curiously enough, in the 
hollows between them there were number^ 
of golden plover flying up to the island, 
keeping pace with the roll of the water. As 
each wave broke on the beach, it discharged 
its cargo of plover ; poor little things, they 
lighted on the sand so exhausted that you 
could run up and catch them in your hand. 
They, however, were so thin as not to be 
worth having, so we let them all go to fatten 
themselves ; after which for many weeks they 
afforded great sport to the sportsmen of the 
garrison, becoming very wild and difficult to 

Lieutenant Peregrine Phillips of the Royal 
Welch Fusiliers, having been ordered home to 
England, came up to Barbadoes to wait for his 
ship, and stayed with me. He had collected 
a number of curious animals to take home, 
among them a large baboon, a handsome 



ir. It 

lly bad 

le sea- 


in the 



r. As 


s, they 

at you 

• hand. 

to be 


s they 

of the 

cult to 


ome to 

for his 



macaw, a very fine sloth, an electric eel, an 
armadillo, a small deer, some parrots, etc. 

One day we had been bottling off a quarter- 
cask of "Fusilier" punch, and had emptied 
out the thick bottom of the punch into a tub 
and left it on the verandah. The unfortunate 
baboon got at the delicious beverage, and not 
having taken "the pledge" exceeded consider- 
ably. When we came home we found him 
lying hopelessly drunk. Next morning he was 
very bad, and we had to tie a wet handkerchief 
round his head and nurse him like a baby. 

I could not get Phillips to make any pre- 
parations for embarking his menagerie ; con- 
sequently when the ship arrived I had to take 
him and his animals out to her loose in an 
open boat. I took the big baboon on my 
lap, Phillips had the macaw on his hand, his 
servant had charge of a few parrots, the eel 
was in a bucket at our feet, and all the other 
creatures were knocking about in the bottom 
of the boat. Just as we were approaching 
the ship, the macaw took fright and flew 
away ; in getting on to the companion ladder 
the baboon managed to tumble into the water, 


i! I 

1 U 




u ' 



I I 




but was fortunately saved. The boat rowed 
off vigorously after the macaw, but the poor 
thing got tired before it reached the shore 
and was drowned. 

We carried all the menagerie down into 
Perry Phillip's cabin, and I left him sitting 
with the half-drowned baboon wrapped up in 
a blanket on his lap, the motionless sloth 
in his berth, the electric eel very lively in 
his wash-hand basin, half a dozen parrots 
flying about, screaming violently, and the 
armadillo crawling about the floor inspecting 
the dead corpse of the macaw. 

On the 24th September 1846 I got a short 
leave of absence, and went all round the 
Windward and Leeward Islands in the Trent 
and Eagle steamers. At St. Vincent I met 
Major Yea and Captain Pack of the 7th 
Royal Fusiliers, with whom I was so closely 
associated a few years later in the Crimea. At 
the other islands I met many friends. 

One day while I was at Barbadoes, a foreign 
man-of-war came into the bay. She fired a 
salute and anchored. Our battery of Artillery 
went down to the pier and returned the salute. 




i poor 


1 into 
up in 
ely in 
d the 





7 th 



Soon afterwards an officer came on shore in 
full uniform, and complained that we had fired 
only twenty guns, and that his captain con- 
sidered it an insult to his flag ! I sent for the 
Artillery officer in charge of the battery, who 
declared he had fired twenty -one, and it was 
impossible there could be a mistake. How- 
ever the foreigner was not satisfied, so we 
agreed to fire one more round. Accordingly 
the battery went down again next morning 
at the appointed time and bang went one 
gun ! The foreigner was appeased. 

ired a 






Voyage to Halifax — Salmon fishing — Curing a doctor of 
hydrophobia — Moose and cariboo shooting. 

On the 17th March 1847 the Royal Welch 
FusiHers left the West Indies and sailed for 
Halifax. I accompanied them. We went up 
in the Herefoi'dshire, a fine old East India- 
man. Our captain, Richardson, was a very 
jolly fellow, and sang beautifully. We had 
a very fair time of it, barring a heavy gale 
off Bermuda, reaching Halifax on the 2nd 
April, where we found the ground covered 
with snow. 

My principal amusements at Nova Scotia 
were salmon fishing in the summer, and moose 
and cariboo hunting in the winter. 

Our surgeon, Dr. Bradford, was a great 
friend of mine in the regiment, but he had an 
intense dread of the water, and ridiculed my 



;tor of 

led for 
ent up 
a very 
'^e had 
y gale 
le 2nd 


lad an 
ed my 

sporting propensities. One day he was in- 
duced to go with a captain of the 7th Fusiliers 
to a river not far off in his schooner yacht, 
and was left near the mouth of a little river, 
with a rod to dabble about for sea trout, 
while the rest of the party went up for salmon. 
By some accident, Bradford got hold of a small 
salmon which he was fortunate enough to land. 
The party came back in the evening with no 
fish, and all, including Bradford, returned in the 
boat to the yacht, the captain chaffing the doctor, 
who only showed them two or three trout the 
length of his finger. When they got on 
board, the fish were thrown up on the deck, 
but Bradford, counting them, said, " I think 
there is one more." The boatman, who was 
in the plot, then looked under some green 
branches that were in the bottom of the boat, 
and, to the astonishment of the great piscatores, 
produced a beautiful, fresh-run, silvery salmon. 
From that moment the little doctor became 
an inveterate sportsman, and I never went 
out by sea or land without him. 

I often went to a nice little stream, Hem- 
lough's river, so called from the only man living 






on its banks. It was only about 9 miles from 
Halifax : it was very small, but it spread out 
here and there into lakes. The salmon were 
not large but plentiful ; the best one I caught 
there weighed sixteen pounds, and he gave me 
some sport. 

In a very narrow part of the stream, between 
a small lake and the lower fall, which fell into 
the salt-water estuary, I thought I saw some- 
thing move. The trees were hanging thick 
over the water on both sides, and the stream 
was full of rough slippery rocks. I went a 
little way up, and then waded down the middle 
of the little river. I could not throw for the 
branches, so I jerked my line in, and wriggled 
my fly down to where I thought I saw the 
rise, when up came a fine salmon with a great 
flop. I had him firm, but he gave me no time 
to think, and made tracks at once down stream. 
All I could do was to follow him. It was no 
easy task ; the stream was strong and the 
rocks were slippery, moreover, I could not 
raise my rod for the boughs of the \^rees. I 
tumbled down in the water half a dozen times, 
rod and all, but at length reached an open 

es from 
ead out 
3n were 
[ caught 

yave me 


fell into 

w some- 

ig thick 

; stream 

went a 

: middle 

for the 


saw the 

a great 

no time 


was no 

nd the 

uld not 

rees. I 

1 times, 

n open 



space just above the fall. There I got up 
my rod and had an everlasting fine fight with my 
fish. Finding he was getting rather the worst 
of it, he turned tail and down he went over the 
fall into the salt water, but to my joy I found 
he was still firm on. He seemed all the better 
for the salt water, and started straio^ht off" down 
the fjord for the Atlantic. I began to look 
anxiously at the small quantity of line I had 
left on my reel, when I felt him relax his 
speed. I got him round and reeled him up 
again, but he was not done yet and tried 
several more sea voyages before I landed him. 
At last, however, I persuaded him to come 
into a nice little nook, and Hemlough gaffed 
him. He was a beautiful fresh-run salmon, like 
silver, sixteen pounds weight. It made old 
Bradford's mouth water. 

I made several trips to the Musquedoboit, 
and had fair sport, getting seven salmon one 
time and five another. Bradford, too, got 
several. With one fish I had a little 
adventure. I hooked him in a very small 
pool, or hole, in the middle of a great rapid, 
at the bottom of which was a high cliff" jutting 

i i. 





out into the stream. The first thing my 
salmon did was to run straight down the rapid, 
my Hne flying away round the edge of the 
rock. I tried wading, but the water was too 
deep. Then I scrambled along a little ledge 
in the rock, but that came to an end, and my 
line also was nearly at an end. There was 
no time to be lost, so I threw myself into 
the water and struck out with one arm, hold- 
ing the rod with the other. The swift stream 
whirled me round the cliff, but I got on shore 
again in the eddy below, and ran down the 
bank of the stream, reeling up as I went. I 
landed my fish safe just below the bridge. 

Many years after, in 1872, a gentleman 
sent me the following cutting from a news- 
paper, which, though not quite correct, is not 
far from it : — 

" The Musquedoboit is also, in spite of 
poaching, a very fair salmon river, and the 
inhabitants still tell the story how General 
Lysons — then an officer of the Welch Fusiliers 
— Colonel, I think, — having hooked a large 
salmon above the bridge, when the river was 
in full torrent, killed his fish, which had run 




out his line and gone down stream, by taking 
the water, and swimming through the rapids 
and under the bridge, having regained his 
footing when nearly at the sea— a by no means 
easy feat." 

I was a Captain at the time. 

One night I took old Bradford down the 
harbour in my skiff to spear lobsters by torch- 
light. It was curious sport. The bottom near 
MacNabb's Island was beautiful, smooth, white 
sand, and we could see the big lobsters crawl- 
ing about by the light of a red-cedar torch, 
which we fastened over the bow of the boat. 
When we lowered our spears towards them, 
they put up their claws and showed fight. We 
then had dexterously to thrust our spears down 
just behind their forearms, and bring them up 
with their legs and claws sprawling about and 
throw them into the bottom of the boat. That 
night we caught a lot of very large ones. 
The spears did not go through them ; they 
were made of two springy pieces of wood that 
caught them on each side of their backs. 

Rowing back again up to Halifax, Bradford 
offered to take the oars. At first he did very 


I ill 




well, but after a while, getting too confdent, 
he caught a crab, and over he went backwards 
all amongst the lobsters! His cries were 
dreadful. I rushed to his rescue and pulled 
him up with a number of the great black- 
looking things hanging all over him — to his 
cars, head, and tail. It was some time before 
I could get them all off. 

I also went to the Gold river with Dr. 
Henry and his sons. We put up at the 
village about a mile from the river, where we 
had good sport, but the salmon were small ; 
seldom over twelve pounds though lively. 
While we were there Crew Reid came down in 
his schooner yacht from Halifax with a party. 
In order to be certain of having all the good 
sport, they came up and encamped opposite 
the great pool in the evening. 

This was rather a checkmate for us. How- 
ever, I thought I had still another move. Two 
hours before daylight I was off to the river 
with my rod over my shoulder. I went down 
to the house of my Indian, awoke him, and 
then we walked silently up through the bush 
to the enemies' camp. They were all asleep, 




i, and 



but I knew there was a dog with them, so we 
went round and crawled quietly along the grassy 
bank of the river. I then commenced fishing 
on my knees and soon hooked a good fish. I 
landed him all right and then tried again, but 
got no more rises ; so we crept off to another 
pool and there got another fish. By the time 
we passed down again to the camp, my 
friends (?) were all getting up and talking of 
the great sport they were going to have, and 
how nicely they had done us. They were 
rather surprised when we made our appearance 
and showed them our two fine fish. 

In the winter of 1847-48, I went out 
with Lieutenant Raynes of the Royal Welch 
Fusiliers in search of moose and cariboo. 
The winter shooting there is very different 
from the hunting in Canada. There is not 
sufficient snow for running down the moose, ^ 
so we had to stalk them, which is difficult 
work in the thick bush, for they are apt to 
hear or smell you before you see them. The 
cariboo are usually found in large herds in 

^ Killing moose in February and March has since then 
been prohibited in Canada. 




i I 





h m 




Open barrens ; they are very shy and difficult 
to <^et at. 

One day we came on the track of some 
cariboo and f /ed it to the edge of a large 
barren. We could see in the distance a 
great number of deer. In order to approach 
them up-wind we had to go a long way round 
in the bush. Having determined my line of 
advance, and selected my deer, we all took 
off our snow-shoes for fear the click of one 
against the other might be heard. I then 
crawled on, followed by my Indian. After 
going some \nce we came to a hollow 

running across the plain at right angles to our 
line of advance. Cautiously looking along it, 
we saw to our left several does. Here was a 
difficulty. The large buck I had selected to 
stalk was some way beyond the hollow. We 
knew if these does saw us, the whole herd 
would be off in a moment. We determined 
to lie down in the snow and burrow along 
in it. 

I had not gone far when my Indian gave 
me a quiet tap on the foot from behind, and 
pointed to my right front. I looked up very 



cautiously and saw a magnificent cariboo 
browsing round a rock not lOO yards from 
me. I soon had my gun out of its case, and 
fired. My Indian persuaded me to give him 
a second shot. I foolishly did so. A minute 
after the whole herd galloped across in front 
of us before I could reload. Raynes got one, 
and his Indian, who took his gun and ran 
across the barren, got another. I also shot five 
fine moose during that trip. 

The cariboo's head I shot is now put up 
in my house in London. 







Still at Halifax — Two singular stories — The sweet waters 
of Halifax — Voyage to England — Winchester — Lord 
Frederick Fitz-CIarence— Preparations for Crimean War. 

At Halifax I had two very singular experi- 
ences. The circumstances connected v/ith the 
first redound so mu'^h to the credit of all the 
parties concerned, that I do not hesitate to 
give the names. 

One day Captain Evans came to me boiling 
over with wrath and mdignation. He said he 
had been grossly insulted by Captain Harvey, 
the Governor's son, and begged me to act as 
his friend. I agreed, provided he promised 
to do exactly as I told him. He consented. 

I called on Captain Harvey's friend. Captain 
Bourke, and we agreed to abide by the Duke 
of Wellington's order about duelling, which had 
just then been promulgated at Halifax. We 
carried out our intention as follows : — We made 



each of our principals write out his own version 
of what had occurred. We then chose an 
umpire. We selected Colonel Horn, of the 
20th Regiment, a clear-headed and much- 
respected officer. With his approval we sent 
him the two statements, and he directed us 
to come to his house the following morning 
with our principals. 

At the appointed time wc arrived and were 
shown into the dining-room. We bowed for- 
mally to each other across the table, and awaited 
the appearance of our referee. 

Colonel Horn soon entered, and addressing 
our principals, said, " Gentlemen, in the first 
place, I must thank you for having made my 
duty so light. Nothing could be more open, 
generous, or gentlemanlike than your state- 
ments. The best advice I can give you is 
that you shake hands and forget the occur- 
rence has ever happened." They at once 
walked up to each other and shook hands 
cordially. They were the best of friends ever 

This was, I believe, the first case that 
occurred of a settlement, on the Duke of 





T II Jfi,llllli,!l^l;' 




Wellington's system, of an affair of honour. 
Poor Evans was afterwards killed at the battle 
of the Alma. 

My second experience was more compli- 
cated, and rivalled anything I have seen on 
the stage. I will not mention names, though 
in the long run credit did redound to all who 
were concerned. 

One morning I was sitting in my room on 
the ground-floor of my house at Halifax, when 
suddenly a lady rushed in in a fearful state of 
perturbation. For some time — what with cry- 
ing, sobbing, and hysterics — I could not make 
out what was the matter. At last she quieted 
down a little, and confided to me her dismal 
story, though somewhat confused and discon- 
nected. " Husband had left her — poor dear 
children deserted — she had flown from the 
house — - would blow his brains out — raving 

about the streets after a young captain^ " 

Oh ! now I began to understand. 

While this was going on 1 heard a violent 
ringing at the door. I had just time to push 
the lady into my back room, when in ran the 
young captain. " I say, Dan, I've got into a 



ftn the 
into a 

fearful scrape. There's that fellow 

tearing about the place swearing he'll shoot 
me." I got him to tell me honestly what had 
really happened, and I found that after all it 
was not so very bad. 

While I was still concerting measures with 
him I caught sight of the infuriated husband 
passing my window and coming to my door. 
There was no time to be lost. I bundled my 
young captain upstairs, and told him to go 
into the first room he found and lock the 

In another moment the infuriated gentle- 
man was shown in. Here was a precious 
kettle of fish ! When he entered I was busily 
engaged with the mess accounts. He at 
once burst forth with a tremendous tirade of 
" rascally scoundrels, faithless wives, blowing 
out brains, etc." Of course I knew nothing 
about it. I let him go on till he was 
pretty well blown, and then asked a few 
questions, each of which produced a violent 
explosion. However, by degrees he cooled 
down a little, and we got on more rational 
terms. I asked him if he had spoken to any 




one else. He thought not. I begged him 
not to say a word to any one, but to go away 
into the country at once, and not return till 
the following afternoon, and then come straight 
to my house. After a while he agreed to this, 
and I saw him out of my house and safe away 
round the corner of the street. 

I then went in to see my poor lady, who 
had heard her husband's voice, and was 
trembling violently. I gave her a glass of 
wine, told her to lock the door inside and 
wait quietly till I returned, and comforted her 
by saying I hoped it would come all right 

Then I went up to my third client, and 
after getting one or two more assurances 
from him, I sent him home and told him 
not to move out of his quarters till he heard 
from me. 

Having got my three parties safe for the 
moment, I went off to the gentleman's house 
and asked for him. The servant said he had 
been home, and taking a small carpet-bag had 
gone away, saying he would not be back again 
for a day or two. I then asked for the lady. 





and he told me she had gone to spend the 
day out with somebody. He thought she 
would be home soon. This was all capital, 
if the infuriated did not explode again and 
come back. 

I returned to my house and told the lady 
what I had done, then sent her home to 
her little children, and desired her not to 
say a word to any one ; but if any one called, 
to receive them as usual as if nothing had 
happened, and leave the rest to me. She 
promised me she would. 

From what I had gathered from all three 
I was convinced that no harm had been done. 
It was simply a case of a pretty woman who 
danced very well, a gay Lothario of a captain, 
and a jealous, hot-headed husband. I soon 
discovered that both husband and wife were 
devoted to their children, who were sweet 
little dots. Here was a capital fulcrum for 
my lever. 

Next day my infuriated arrived, much more 
reasonable. I got him to promise that he 
would go back to his wife and children, who, 
I said, were longing to see him at tea. But 



"> 'X 

the very mention of the name of the gay 
Lothario caused a tremendous explosion of 
fireworks ; he was still thirsting for his blood. 
I saw it would never be safe for them to 
meet, so I persuaded the young captain's 
commanding officer to grant him leave of 
absence to go home to England by the next 
steamer, and they never met again. — 

My poor Lothario captain, as fine a fellow 
as ever stepped, was killed at the battle of 
the Alma gallantly leading his company. 
The lady and her infuriated husband and 
children (then grown up) I heard of many 
years after, living most happily together at 
home. The esclandre never got wind in 

Not far from my house at Halifax there 
was a well which was celebrated for the 
excellence of its water. Everybody within 
reach resorted to it for their supply — I and 
my friend Dr. Bradford, who lived with me 
during the latter part of the time I was there, 
amongst the number. 

One fine morning an old woman managed 
to drop her bucket into the well and it sank, 



SO she went off and got a grappling-iron in 
order to fish for it. She dragged about for 
some time, but cculd not get her bucket. At 
last she got hold of something heavy, and was 
obliged to call a man to help her pull it up. 
When it came to the top, what should it be 
but a dead soldier. He turned out to be a 
man of our regiment who was supposed to 
have deserted several months before, and had 
been struck off the strength of the corps in 
the usual manner. Few people ever came to 
the well for water after that. 

On the 1 6th September 1848 I sailed from 
Halifax with the Royal Welch Fusiliers in the 
Java, hired troooship. We had a fair passage, 
and arrived at Spithead on the 5th October. 
The following day we went into the dockyard 
wharf, and on the 7th we disembarked and 
went to Winchester, where we were quartered 
for nearly two years. 

Captain Campbell and I were employed in 
teaching the non - commissioned officers and 
men to construct field-works, gabions, fascines, 
etc. Lord Frederick Fitz-Clarence took great 
interest in the work of the regiment. 



In June I was appointed Town- Mayor at 
Portsmouth, where I wrote a system of en- 
camping and cooking for Lord Frederick, 
which came out in his book afterwards. In 
July I was promoted Major by purchase, and 
returned to my regiment. 

I had two good horses — " Bob," who went 
all through the Crimean War with me, and a 
thoroughbred, "The Cub." On these I had 
a great deal of hunting. In January I accepted 
an invitation to stay at Oakley Hall (with Mr. 
Beach), where I met a charming party, and 
we had some good theatricals. I was well 
acquainted with Lady Doughty of Tichborne 
Park, and met Roger Tichborne there. At 
that time he was a complete Frenchman and 
could speak very little English. I remember 
sitting by him at dinner and conversing with 
him in French. 

From Winchester we went to Plymouth, 
where we found ourselves amongst most hos- 
pitable friends. I hired a small cutter yacht, 
the Red Rover ^ about i6 tons, and joined in 
many jolly picnic parties with her. Mr. 
Radcliffe, in his Warleigh yacht, usually came 



with us, and Mr. Hall Parlby and his merry 
party from Manadon ; the Misses Archer, 
Miss Kate Barton, Miss Praed, and many 
others were always with us. 

I went up in my yacht to the Solent for the 
regattas, and was present at the great Ajuerica 
match. My recollection of it is very differ- 
ent from the account recently given in an 
American paper. I sailed in the America 
afterwards when she belonged to Lord de 
Blaquiere, and I often sailed in the Arrow 
with Mr. Chamberlain. 

Writing of Lord de Blaquiere brings to 
my mind a sad memory. One evening I was 
sitting at dinner with my mother and sister, 
who were staying at Plymouth, when I re- 
ceived a letter from him asking me to go and 
see him on board the ship Brilliant, lying at 
anchor off the pier. He had brought home in 
her the remains of his wife, who had died at 

Of course I went off to him at once, and 
sat with him on board the beautiful brig 
Brilliant till a late hour. 

Next morning, after making some arrange- 



ments for de Blaquiere, I went off to the 
brig, and accompanied him, with the re- 
mains of his wife, to the railway station, and 
saw him off by the train. De Blaquiere, 
with the coffin covered by a new Union 
Jack, went in one boat to the shore, the 
captain of the brig and I followed in a 
second. The sailors carried the coffin to the 
station and showed a great deal of good 

From Plymouth the regiment went to 
Liverpool and Chester, with a detachment 
at the Isle of Man. I was at first stationed 
at the former in command of a detachment 
of four companies. Afterwards, Colonel 
Torrens having been sent on special service, 
I went to Chester and took command of 
the regiment. 

Her Majesty the Queen visited Liverpool, 
and I had three guards of honour under my 
command at different places, but only one band 
and one goat, the gift of Her Majesty to the 
regiment. As soon as I had given my royal 
salute at one place I had to take a short cut 
and hurry away to the next, with the band 



and goat. Fortunately Billy behaved remark- 
ably well. The vast mob were very good- 
humoured and much interested to get us along. 
I believe, if it had been necessary, they would 
have carried Billy. However, we were always 
in time with the goat, colour, band, and all 
complete, much to the amusement of the young 
Princes, who looked out for him at each guard 
and were evidently much pleased to see Billy 
always at his post. 

On the 2ist May 1853 I left Chester, and 
went in command of the Headquarter Divi- 
sion of the regiment to Parkhurst barracks, 
Isle of Wight, where the battalion was 
brought together. I then handed it over to 
Lieutenant-Colonel Crutchley, who had been 
promoted vice Colonel Torrens, appointed 
Assistant Quartermaster-General at the Horse 

Soon after this the reserve battalion, under 
Colonel Chester, was brought home from 
Canada and amalgamated with the first bat- 
talion. This made the regiment up to about 
1 200 strong, a splendid battalion ; but we were 
ordered to get rid of the men any way we 



could and reduce it down to 800. Of course 
we did not send away our good men. 

I was frequently employed while in Eng- 
land as officiating Deputy Judge- Advocate- 
General at general courts- martial. On one 
occasion Lieutenant-Colonel Buller, C.B., Rifle 
Brigade, was President. He afterwards com- 
manded the Second Brigade of the Light 
Division of our army in Bulgaria. On another 
occasion Colonel Love, afterwards General Sir 
Frederick Love, Inspector-General of Infantry, 
was President; and on a third occasion Colonel 
Simpson, who afterwards became General Sir 
James Simpson, commanding the British 
Army in the Crimea, was President. And, 
curiously enough. Colonel Codrington, who 
succeeded him in command of the army, 
came down to Weedon, where the court was 
held, to defend one of the prisoners who was 

We had <ieted the reduction of the 

regi 1' rt.>o ik and file, before we were 

suddc ly or< ored to prepare for war. We 
were then noved over to Portsmouth to be 
ready for embarkation. 



The events of the two following years of 

my life have been described in my Letters from 

the Crimea, which were kindly received by the 

public under the title of The Crimean War 

from First to Last. 








Alais, 34, 35 

ironworks at, 40 
Albany, 192 

Albert, H.R.H. Prince, 121 
Almac's balls, 121 
Alps, tbe, 39 
America yixchi, the, 231 
American sympathisers, 89, 97, 

156, 157 
Anduze, 42 
Anticosta, 171 
Apennines, the, 12 
Arbuthnot, General, 44 
Archer, the Misses, 231 
Aries, 34 

Arrow, the steamer, 8 
Arrow ya.c\\i, \.h<i, 2^1 
Assumption river, 143 
Athlone, 45, 46, 48 
Avignon, 30, 34 
Axe-handle Guards, the, 68 

Bali.yshannon, fish'.ig at, 50 
'^arbadoes, 195, 196, 197, 203, 
saluting a foreign warship at, 
Baring, Mr. and Mrs. George, 13 
Barton, Miss Kate, 231 
Bath, 20 
Dramatic FHie, 23 

Bath, society, 22 
Battiscombe, Rev. Mr., 16 
Beach, Mr., 230 
Beaiicaire, 34 

Beauclerk, Lord Charles, 59, 62, 
no. III, 112, 113, 114 
death of, 116, 117 
Beauharnois, 98 
Beauport, 57 
Beaver-dam, a, 151 
Bennett, Major, 170, 181, 182, 191 

Mrs., 170, 181, 182 
Bermuda, rebels to be transported 

to 96 
Berne, 1 1 
Berthier, 187 
Bic, 186 

Billiards, a game of, 165 
Biscoe, Lieutenant Grattan, 60 
Black Prince, cognizance of the, 3 
Bologna, races at, 11, 12 
Bomballes, Madame, 14 
Bonaparte, Lucien, 16 
Bonini, 14 
Boston, 121 
Bourke, Captain, 222 

Deaf, 67 
Bourshea, Mr.. 1S6 
Bout de risle, 143 
Bowen, Judge, 59 ^ 

Bowles, Colonel, 102 
Boxer, Captain, 187, 188, 190 





Bradford, Dr., 212, 213, 215, 217, 

Bretain, Captain, 193 
Brienz, 18 

lake, 19 
BrilHant, the brig, 231 
Bristol, 49, 118 
Britannia, the s.s., 120 
British Queen, the, 117 
Broadley, Captain, 65 
Brooks, Mr., 185 
Brougham, Lord, 96 
Brussels, 9 

Buchan, General Sir John, 46, 47 
Buchesney, Monsieur, 59 
Buffalo, 60 

Bull, encounter with a, 1 1 1 
Buller, C.B., Lieut. -Colonel, 234 
Burghersh, Lord, 13 
Burnaby, Dick, 162 
Burstalls, the, 59 
Bush-craft, 122 
Butler, Dr., 20 

Byers, Ensign, drowning of, 45 
Byron, Lord, II 
Bytown, 69 

Caccouna, 186 
Cahots, 191 
Calais, passage to, 9 
Camp, a ready-made, 135 

construction of a, 122-125 
Campana, 14 
Campbell, Captain, 229 

Lieutenant Bob, 165 
Canada, American sympathisers in, 

discontent in, 64 

embarking for, 52 

militia of, 97 

outrages in, too 

rebels drilling in, 65 
operations against, 71 

reinforcements for, 94, 95, 96 

Canada, the " Army " of, 98 

winter in, 124 

winter picnics in, 63 
Canada, Upper, disturbances in, 89 

organisation of rebels in, 97 
Canadian boat-songs, 115, 116, 145 

games, 145 

rebels, transportation of, 96 
Canadians and Loyalists, hostilities 

between, 68 
Cape Chatte, 176, 187 
Cariboo shooting, 219-221 
Carnegie, Sir James, 14, 15, 17, 44, 

his marriage, 16 

Lady, 48 
Caroline, the, 97 

burning of, loi 
Carr, Ensign, drowning of, 45 
Cascade rapid, the, 168 
Catalani, 16 
Cathcart, Colonel (afterwards Sir 

George), 96 
Catherine Stewart Forbes, the, 55 
Cevennes, the, 34 
Chamberlain, Mr., 231 
Chambly, 70, 71, 103, 105 
Chateau, an ancient, 34 
Chateaugay, 98, 115 
Chatham swamp, 157, 163, 164 
Chnne Bay, 176, 183, 188 
Cherito, 121 
Chester, 232, 233 

Colonel, 233 
Clermont, 42 
Clitheroe, General, 103 
Cochnawaga, 98 , 

Cochrane, Lord, 60 
Codrington, Colonel, 234 
Colborne, Sir John, 57, 59, 66, 69, 
76, 82, 83, 86, 89, I TO, 102, 
103, 156 

Lady, 59 
Cold, effect of extreme, 141 


ices in, 89 

n. 97 

, 116, 14s 

.f, 96 

IS. 17,44. 

3f. 45 

ivards Sir 
|, the, 55 


?, 66, 69, 

TO, 102, 



Cologne, 9 

Colomb, Mr. Albin, 40-42 
Columbia, the s.s., 121 
Colour, wetting the, 47 
Colville, Captain, 107 
Conolly, Lieutenant, 199, 206 
Cork, cove of, 52 
Courland Bay, 197, 199 
Crayfish, fishing for, 19 
Crescentini, 16 
Crompton, Captain, 73 
Crutchley, Colonel, 233 

Dartnell, Surgeon, 170, 192 
Darwin, Mr., 144 
Darwin's shanty, 144 
Davenport, Captain, 170 
De Blaquiere, Lord, 231, 232 
Demidoff, Count, 13 
Deserter, a 163 
Detroit, 156, 163 

Dickson, Captain, 143, 144, 147, 
148, 152, 153 

Brigade -Major, 86 
Dijon, 19, 27 
Dinner, a grand, 46 
Dogherty, Mr., 144 
Doughty, Lady, 230 
Douglas, Captain. 187, 188, 190 
Dragoon Guards, the 3rd, 46 

the King's, 96, 103 
Driving club, a, 103 
Dublin, 50 

Duck-shooting, 157, 160 
Duel, a, 66 
Dundas, Colonel, 97 
Dundee, The, 119 
Durham, Lord, 94, 95, 96, 98 

Eagle, the steamer, 197, 210 
Eighty-fifth Light Infantry, the, 

55, 83 
Eighty-third Regiment, the, 82, 


Ellice, Mr. Edward, 98 

junior, M.P., 98 
Enniskillen, 48, 50 
Environs of /.onJon, the authors 

of, I 
Erskine, Sir Thomas, 197, 201, 203 
Evans, Captain, 222, 224 

Fahri, 14 

Family Arms, the, 3 

Fifteenth Regiment, the, 103 

First Royal Regiment, the, 45, 

83, 103 
Fisher, R.A., Lieutenant, 163 
Fishing, no, 112, 136 
Fishing party, a large, 115 
Fitz-Clarence, Lord Frederick, 229, 

Florence, 12, 14, 15 

society at, 13 
Fontainebleau, 43 
Forger, a, 61 
Forsyth, Mr., 10 1 
P'ort Graciot, 156 
Forth, the s.s., 196 
Forty-third Light Inlantry, the, 83 
Fox, Mr., loi 
Franceschini, 14 
Frankfort, 9 
Frazer, Mr., 184 
French Canadians, the, 64 
Frossard, Monsieur, 31, 34, 40 
Funchal, 196 

GahRiki.i.i, Princess, 16 
Gallway, Lieutenant (afterwards 

General Sir Thomas), 206 
Garcia, 11 
CJencva, 19 
Genoa, 15 

(Jcorge IV'., II. M. King, death of, 6 
George, II. R.I I. I'rince, 121 
Gipps, Sir George, 59 
Glen Dye, 48 



Glen Dye, shooting at, 49, 119, 120 
(llobinski, Captain, 84 
Gold River, the, 218 
Gondola, rowing the, 17 
Goose, a remarkable, 108, 109 
Gore, Colonel, 69, 71, Ti, 75, 76, 
78, 80, 102 

Ensign, 55 

Lieutenant, 170, 188 
Gosford, the Earl of, 59, 83 
Grande Horloge, the, 25 
Grant, Mr., 184 
Granville, Lieutenant, 197 
Great IVestern, the s.s., 95, 102 

races the British Queen, 117 
Green Island, 170 
Grenada, 203-206 
CJrey, Sir Charles, 59, 96 
Griffin, Lieutenant, 79, 82 
Grindelwald, 18 
Grisi, 120 
Guards, a Brigade of, 94 

the Coldstream, 108 

the Grenadier, 98, 99, loo, 103 
Gzouskies, the, 161 

Halifax, 55, 82, 89, 120, 187, 212- 

' an esclaiidre at, 224-228 

a well at, 228, 229 
Hamilton, 165 
Hare, Captain, 207 
Hare Island, 45 , 

Harrises, the, 161 
Harvey, Captain, 222 
Hastings, H.M.S., 94 
Haunted room, a, 38 
Havre, crossing to, 24 
Hazel, Mr. Gilbert, 195 
Head, Sir Francis Hond, 69, 89 
Hemlough's river, 213 
Hemmingford, 90 
Hempsted Court, 44, 49 
Henry, Dr., 62, 218 

Herefordshire, the ship, 212 
Hesse-Homburg, Landgravine of, 9 
Hickman, Bunty, 21 
Highland Light Infantry, the 71st, 

96, 99, 103, 197, 200, 201, 203 
Highlanders, the 79th, 57 

the Glengarry, 89 
Hill, Lord, 44 
Hill, Mr., 15 
Hochelaga, 69 
Ilomburg, 9 
Hope, General Sir James, 187, 188, 

Horn, Colonel, 223 
Hough, Mr., 97 
Hughes, Colonel, 71, 74 
Humphries, Lieutenant, 55, 62 
Huron, Lake, 156 
Hussars, the 7th, 70, 96, 99, 

100, 103, 104, 106 

Ice-boats, sailing in, 63 

Indian village, an, 142 

Indians, races with, 137 

Inglis, Lieutenant (afterward Sir 

John), 75 
Innsbruck, 17 
Interlaken, 17, 18, 19 

Jackson, Sir Richard, 143, 156 
Java, the bark, 183 
Jenkins, Mr., 185 
John Bull, a regular, 26 
Johnston, Mr., 68 

Kent, carriages of Duke of, 7, 8 
Kilineure, 45 

Kingston, 60, 97, 112, 168 
Kinnaird Castle, 49 

Lablache, 120 
Lachine, 112, 113 

Rapid, the great, 90, 112, 168 



5f, 7, S 

J, 168 

Laddriere, Monsieur, 25 

La Prairie, 104, 106 

Laquarro River, the, 147, 151 

La Scala Theatre, 1 1 

Lauterbrunnen, valley of the, 18 

Lazaroni, 16 

Leamington, 195 

Leeward Islands, 210 

Les Crapauds Cliffs, 183 

Levees, the (Queen's, 120 

Levis Point, 57 

Lewis, Captain C. A., mission of, 

100, loi, 102 
Light Infantry, the 32nd, 64 
Liverpool, the Queen's visit to, 

Lobster spearing, 217 
Logan, Sir W., 119 
London, Canada West, 157, 161, 

163, 164 
London, society in, 120 
Longsault Rapid, the, 168 
Longueil, 67 
Lorraine, Claude, residence of, 

Love, Colonel (afterwards General 

Sir Frederick), 234 
Loyalists and Canadians, hostilities 

between, 68 
Lucca, baths of, 14 
Lumbering establishment, a, 144 
Lyons, 27 
Lysons or Lisons, Mr. Thomas, 

2. 3 
Sir Daniel, ancestry of, i 
appointed ensign, 45 

D.A.().-t;., 82 
arms of, 3 
birth of, 5 
called the White Indian Chief, 

carries despatches to Quebec, 182 
commands Royal Welch Fusiliers, 


Lysons, Sir Daniel, commences 

squad-drill, 48 
duties at Quebec, 93 
education of, 20 
embarks for Canada, 52 
employed as D.J.-A. -G., 234 

to make military sketches, 107 
family-tree of, i 
given leave of absence, 48, 60, 

117, 120, 191 
has a narrow escape, 90 
his Indian hunters, 127-129, 131, 

140, 142, 144, 149, 152 
joins his regiment, 46 
kills his first moose, 130 
lands at (Quebec, 59 
learns to row the gondola, 17 
leaves school, 24 

the West Indies, 212 

Halifax for England, 229 
mentioned in despatches, 77 

in District Order, 191 
on Colonel Gore's staff, 69 
ordered to Toronto, 69 

West Indies, 163 
presented to Her Majesty, 120 
promoted to a company in the 

3rd West India Regiment, 

promoted Major, 230 
(|uartered at Montreal, 64 

Winchester, 229 
released frc ni arrest, 51 
returns to Canada, 121, 156 
saves drowning boys, 20, 21 
sister's marriage, 16 
surveys Niagara district, 119 
Town- Mayor of Portsmouth, 230 
transferred to Royal Welch Fusi- 
liers, 203 
travels abroad, 7, 24 

in U.S.A., 156 
under arrest, 50 
wrecked on the Premier, 170-182 






1 , 



V' ;. 

Vi' .i 

'( i 





Macdonald, Captain, 121 
Macdonell, General Sir James, 94, 

Mackie, Lieutenant, 197 
Maclean, Major Lachlan, 46 
MacNahb's Island, 217 
Madeira, 196 

Madras Classical School, the, 20 
Mai^na Britannia, The, authors of, i 
Magnelli, Signer, 13, 14 
Maitland, Captain, afterwards 

Colonel, 73, 83 
Maitland, 'J'lic, 52, 57, 69 
Malaucene, 39 
Manadon, 231 

Markham, Captain, 72, 73, 74 
Marryat, Rev. Harvey, 20 
Matan, Great, 184 

Little, 184 
Matawin Lakes, 148 
Mayne, Captain John, 59, 66 
M'Clintock, Captain, 47 
M'Cord, Mr., 68 
M'Nab, Colonel, 97 
Meiringen, 18 
Mende, 42 
Metis, 185 

Great, 185 
Middlemore, General, 195 
Milan, 11 
Monck, Lord, 81 

Moose hunting, 122, 127-135, 147- 
151, 212 

head, carrying a, 138 

yard, a, 129 
Mont Ventoux, 39 
Monte Mario, 17 
Montmorency, falls of, 56 
Montreal, 60, 64, 76, 77, 78, 81, 82, 
90, 100, 102, 103, 104, 105, 
106, no, 118, 119, 129, 
143, 169, 187, 191, 192, 

193, 194 
foxhounds at, 67 

Montreal, Grenadier Guards dis- 
|)atche(l to, 98 

ill state of defence, 77 

meeting of the loyal party in, 

.society in, 89 

Volunteers, 69, 83, 84 

winter in, 103 
Mulgrave, the Earl of, 143, 147, 

148, 152, 153 
Munchausen stoiy, a, 142 
Munich, 17 
Murat, 118 
Murray, (General, 45 
Musquedoboit River, the, 215, 216 

Nai'Iervili.e, expedition to, 98, 

Naples, 15 

Lazaroiii at, 16 

snow at, 16 

society in, 16 
Navy Island, 97 
Nelson, the rebel commander, 79, 

Nevers, 42 
New, Captain, 171 
Newcoman, R.A., Lieutenant, 

New Haven, 192, 193 
Newland, Lieutenant, 157, 158, 


Nerv Liverpool, the, 187 
New York, 102, 117, 193, 194 
Niagara district, survey of, 119 

Falls, visit to, 60 

River, 97 
Nicolet, Grenadier Guards sent for 

from, 98 
Nimes, 30, 31, 32, 38, 40, 41, 

Ninety-third Regiment, the, 96 
Nonnenwerth, 9 



Nova Scotia, fishing and moose- 
hunting in, 212 
Nun's Island, 90, 112 

Oaki.ey IIai.i., 230 

Ogdcnsburg, 60 

Ontario, lake of, 60 

Opera, the, 120 

Orange, 39 

Orleans, island of, 56 

Ornisby, Lieutenant, 59, 65, 87 

Oswego, 60 

Ottawa River, The, 84 

Pack, Captain, 210 
Paget, Admiral Sir C, 94 
Palazzo, Settimanni, the, 12, 14 
Papineau, Monsieur, 67, 68, 81, 96 

search for, 80 
Paris, 25, 42, 43 
Parkhurst barracks, 233 
Parlby, NFr. Hall, 231 
Patriot, a Canadian, 65, 66 
Perrot, 121 
Persiani, 120 
Peselli, 14 

Petrarch, birthplace of, 39 
Phillips, Lieutenant Peregrine, 208, 

209, 210 
Picnics, 63 
Picton, 120 
Pisa, 14 

Plymouth, yachting at, 230 
Pochin, Mrs., 15 
Pocklingtons, the, 13 
Point de Monts, 171 
Pont du Card, the, 34 
Pont St-Esprit, 30 
Pope's benediction, the, 17 
Portsmouth, 230, 234 
Praed, Miss, 231 

Premier, the transport, 170 

wreck of, 171-182 
Prescott, 97 
Price, Mr., 144 
Prices, the, 59 
Pritchard, Colonel, 187 

v)UETiEC, 56, 57, 58, 59, 93, 102, 
108, 109, 120, 169, 187, 188, 
189, 191 
celebration of Queen's birthday, 

(leet at, 94 

Guards sent for from, 98 
iceboats at, 63 
reinforcements for, 82, 83 
theatricals at, 62 
Queen Victoria, Accession of H.M., 
at the theatre, 121 
celebration of I LM.'s birthday, 95 
levees of, 120 
swearing allegiance to, 64 

Rauclifke, Mr., 230 
Rawdon, 129, 144 
Raynes, Lieutenant, 219, 221 
Ready, Cajitain, 107 
Rebels drilling, 65 

transportation of to Ik-rmuda, 96 

organisation of, 97, 98 
Recruit, a stupid, 48 
Red Rover yacht, the, 230 
Reichenbach Falls, 18 
Reid, Mr. Crew, 218 
Revolution of 1830, the, 25 
Rhine, the, 9 
Rhone, the, 27, 30 
Richardson, Captain, 212 
Richelieu River, 70 
Rigi, the, 10 
Rimouski, 185 









Rimouski River, 186 

Rivicrc-du-loup, 186, 187 

Riviere Quelle, 187 

Rochester, 60 

Rochester, the, 193 

Rocket, an erratic, 88 

Rodmarton, 5, 43, 44 

Rogers, Mr., 127, 128 

Rolandseck, 9 

Rolandswerth, 9 

Rome, 15, 16, 17 

Rosenlaui glacier, 18 

Rouen, 24 

Roy, Louis, 176, 182, 183 

Royal Artillery, the, 103 

Royal Regiment, the, 83, 170, 

189, 190 
Royal Welch Fusiliers, the, 232- 

leave West Indies for Halifax, 

leave Halifax for England, 229 

Sackets Harbour, 60 
St-Andiol, 27, 30 

a heavy bill at, 28 
St. Angelo, castle of, 16 
St. Anne's, 176 
St. Benoit, 89 
St. Charles, 67, 71, 76, 77, 78, 79, 

St. Clair Lake, 157 
St. Denis, 71, 72, 76, 77, 78, 79,82, 

second advance on, 78 
St. Eustache, advance on, 83, 84 
St. Flour, 42 
St. Gilles, 33 
St. Giorgio, church of, 17 
St. Hilaire, 76 
St. Hyacinthe, 80, 82 
St. Jacques, 143 
St. Jean, 187 
St. John's, 69, 103 

St. Lawrence River, the, 58, 70, 83, 
106, 143, 168, 170, 184, 188 
ice-bridge over, 93 
St. Louis Lake, 1 12, 113 
St. Martins, 83 
St. Ours, 71, 75, 78 
St. Peter's, 17 
St. Vincent, 210 
Saltzburg, 17 

Sandoni, R.N., Captain, 97 
Saune, the, 27 
Sapin trees, 123 
Saville, Captain Jack, 104 
Schcidegg, Groat and Little, 18 
Scotchman, a young, 193-195 
Scott, Captain, 107 
Sedan chairs, 22 
Seine, up the, 24 
Seventy-third Regiment, the, 96, 

Sewell, Chief-Justice, 59 
Ship's grog, 55 
Shot, a wonderful, 18 
Shooting, no 
Shrewsbury school, saving life at, 

20, 21 

Simplon, the, 1 1 

Simpson, Colonel (afterwards 

General Sir James), 234 
S iritis, the s.s., 95 
Six counties, meeting of the, 67 
Sixty-eighth Light Infantry, 189 
Sixty-fifth Regiment, the, 96 
Sixty-sixth Regiment, the, 59, 73 
Somerset, Lord Fitzroy, 195, 196 
Sorel, 71,76, 78, 79 
" Soupe au caillou," how to make, 

Spezzia, 15 
Squall, a heavy, 58 
Stainer, Mr., 1S7 
Staubach Fall, 18 
Steeple-chase, a military, 161 
Styria, 17 



Sweeney, Mr. Campbell, 68 
Switzerland, 9, 1 1 

Table Rock, the, 60 

Taglioni, 121 

Tambourini, 120 

Tanargue, the, 34 

Tandem driving, 62 

Taylor, Colonel IJrook, 143, 144, 

147. 152 
Thames River (Canada), the, 157 
Theatre, Her Majesty's, 121 
Theatricals, 161 

Thirty-fourth Regiment, the, 83 
Thirty-second Regiment, the, 79, 

83, 103, 165 
Thonon, 19 
Three- Rivers, Grenadier Guards 

sent for from, 98 
Tichborne, Roger, 230 
Timmings, Mr., 192 
Tobago, 197, 199, 200, 202, 203 
Toronto, 60, 69, 165, 168 
Torrens, Colonel, 232, 233 
Transport, a crowded, 53 
Trait steamer, the, 210 
Trinidad, 202, 203 
Trout fishing, 136, 140, 141 
Trye, Miss, 31 
Twenty -fourth Regiment, the, 69, 

71, 73 

Twenty-third Royal Welch Fusi- 
liers, the, 197, 203 

Tyrwhitt, Captain, I2I 

Unicorn, thes.s., 187, 188, 190 
United States and Great Britain, 


army, officers of, 156 
frontier, 156 
Urtjuhart, Lieutenant, 59 

Valenck, 27 

Van Buren, I'resident, loi 
Vansittart, Lieutenant, 170, 178, 

Vare/tne, the, 76 
Vaucluse, Fontaine de, 39 
Veluti, 14 
Venice, 17 
Vermont, lOl 

Governor of, 100, lOl 
Vienna, 17 

Vivian, Lieutenant J., 60, 62 
Vosbury family, the, 1 00 

Waddilovk, Ensign, 170, 171, 

War, preparing for, 234 
IVarleigh yacht, the, 230 
Washington, loi, 102 
Waterford, 49 
Weedon, 234 
Weir, Lieutenant, murder of, 79 

l)urial of, 82 
Weilesley, Captain, 206 
Wellington, Duke of, 190, 191, 

his order on duelling, 222, 

Wetherall, Ensign Ned (afterwards 
General Sir Edward), 45, 59, 
62, 86, 170, 171, 172, 176, 
Colonel (afterwards General Sir 
George), 46, 48, 50, 53, 54, 
56, 57, 62, 70, 76, 83, 

White, Colonel, 96 
Whitmore, Lieutenant, 170 
William IV., II.M. King, acces- 
sion of, 6 
death of, 64 
Willoughl)y, Lieutenant, 197 
Winchester, in quarters at, 229 
Windsor (Canada), 163 




Windward Islands, 210 
Wolsulcy, Colonel (now I'.M. 

X'iscoiint, Coninianiler-in-Cliief), 

Wyndham, Lieutenant, 128, 131, 

133. '34. •3(i. 137. 13X. 

141, 142, 157, 158, 159, 162, 

Yea, Major, 210 
Zuc, 9 


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